Interesting moves, but the initial hand-holds on the crack are a bit slippery.

Just go up the crack.

Descent: Either bring slings/cord + rings to construct a rappel anchor (at least one nice rock horn or hole above top of Affordable Care.

Or scramble off to the south (4th class exposed) -- see intructions for Top-Rope access on

sector 8 description page

.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Cohiba

Guanobita

Limbaugh Limbo

Upper Right Face

Left Slab - Central

Right End Ledge

Left Slab - Left Arete

Central Fins - Left Tower + Groove

CF Right Groove

Connect High Chouinard

Upper Right Exit

CF Left Ledge

Central Fins - Left Corners

Upper Right Corner

Left Slab - Near Left Gully

Connect Top Central Fins

Hand Traverse

Left Slab - Far Left Gully

Left Slab - Left Cracks

CF Connect Left Upper Right

Central Fins Wandering

Affordable Care

Left Slab - Right Flake

Interesting + rather fun sequence.

Get established in the alcove, then through its roof, and straight to the top.

Descent: Either bring slings/cord + rings to construct a rappel anchor (at least one nice rock horn or hole above top of Affordable Care.

Or scramble off to the south (4th class exposed) -- see intructions for Top-Rope access on

sector 8 description page

.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Interesting route if you want to practice off-width and squeeze chimney - (if only it were longer).

Just go up the crack.

Descent: Either bring slings/cord + rings to construct a rappel anchor (at least one nice rock horn or hole above top of Affordable Care.

Or scramble off to the south (4th class exposed) -- see intructions for Top-Rope access on

sector 8 description page

.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Link-up of some interesting more diffficult sequences to go bottom to top on the right side of the Central Fins (CF) area.

. .  . (We can hope that another sequence will be added: see Project Variation below).

Start by climbing

the route "Affordable Care"

, to reach a small tree on a block at its top.

Step Left across gully onto face below nose, and climb up through notch in nose. Then up and over another nose (crux).

. . . (This is roughly parallel close next to

the route "CF Right Groove"

).

Next aim for the left side of the overhanging bulge, and join

the route "CF Wandering"

to finish up the face between the slanting roof on the left and the chimney on the right, finish to two-bolt anchor with lower-off.

. . . (or more "direct" and easier, could join the route "CF Right Groove" finish up wide chimney).

- - > Project ? Variation: ? Finish up the splitter crack through the center of the overhanging bulge.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent

? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it

and

supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for the climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Lots of enjoyable moves. If don't find all the right holds and use them well at the crux sequences, it's definitely going to feel harder than the quoted difficulty.

directions

: Start by going horizontal left about 20 feet from the two-bolt anchor for "Right End Ledge". Next upward, aim for the two cracks under right side of big bulge in upper right side of Central Fins area. Figure out how to get to the top of the cracks (crux) and around right side of bulge.

Next go gentler under obvious crack (of the route "Upper Right Corner") which is above left. Soon leave ramp and go up for 10-15 ft roughly parallel to crack, then up diagonal 15 ft or 20, then aim up toward obvious bush and finish under right side of bush to rope-around-bush anchor (or continue gentle up right 20 ft to bolt anchor).

descent

: See description of the route "Upper RIght Corner".

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Sustained slab moves in first section, then some fun 3-dimensional sequences above.

. . Still lots of loose rock on upper half.

Up the face (without many positive holds), trending a bit left to 1-ft-thick tooth aimed up right. Get up that, then step around Right onto ramp. Up to top of ramp, then straight to the top.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it

and

supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for the climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Two main purposes: To access mid-way anchors and routes in "Central Fins" and "Upper Right" that go up higher from this ledge. Or to set Top-Rope anchors for routes (e.g. "Affordable Care") starting below on the ground and finishing near this ledge.

Some thoughtful moves along the way (and some variations more thoughful).

directions

: Start on the right side of the outside corner that forms the far right edge of the lower wall of sector Dostie, below a bolt. Up the corner, at first on its right side, then perhaps some clever switching back and forth, to figure out how to attain standing on ledge just above 2nd bolt and then 3rd bolt. Horizontal left on this ledge and past a 4th bolt and step down a little just after passing 5th bolt . (or step down after 4th bolt, then termporarliy up to clip 5th bolt).

. . Variation: more interesting and difficult is to go left and up after passing 5th bolt.

Horizontal left until under the two-bolt anchor at the bottom start of the route "Upper Right Corner Crack", then up to that first mid-way anchor.

. . Variation: For a tricky challenge (much harder like 5.9), instead continue traversing left (balancy and slopy hands) under perched rock, then up on the left side of rock.

From the first mid-way anchor, make a rising traverse up left through several steps to reach bolt.

. .  More interesting and a bit harder is to traverse non-rising horizontal left from anchor to reach bolt in corner (for the route "Upper Right Face", and up the corner  to reach a ledge just left of a bolt (for the main route "Right End Ledge").

Finish horizontal Left to reach two-bolt mid-way anchor which is bottom start for route "CF Right Groove".

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

One-and-a-half-move wonder.

Exit gully onto ramp up Left - to about 10ft L below first bolt of the route "

Left Slab - Near Left Gully

;. Stand up onto 1-ft-wide toothy flake.

Pull over left-trending diagonal outside corner (1st move, crux). Next diagonal up Left (and perhaps traverse) to reach platform at base of short narrow V gully.

Step Right from the gully, and instead move up onto arete that forms its R side (2nd move, not as hard). Finish to 2-bolt anchor for the route "

Left Slab - Near Left Gully

;.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it

and

supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for the climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Fun moves on positive holds most of the way.

Difficulty is one grade harder if do not use the hidden hold at the crux -- and might be another trick -- (see beta in Comment below).

not

a sport climb: Although there is a bolt plainly visible near the ground, and even a second bolt a bit higher, above that you're either placing a full range of Trad protection, or soloing.

directions

: Start In a shallow alcove around the corner Left from the 15-20 ft tall deep chimney capped by a rock.

Diagonal up right on ramp to near the right edge corner of the face, then up onto wide platform.

. . . Variation 1 (more interesting + harder): A few feet up the ramp then go straight up face (just right of bolt) to reach wide platform.

Next aim up left for the obvious small tower. Start up its SW corner (with a thoughtful move 5.6 perhaps 5.7), later onto its South face, and to standing on top.

. . . Variation 2: Traversing around to the Left (N) side of tower and up is easier 5.5 and also interesting.

From standing on top of tower, get onto the main cliff and get established in the obvious right-trending groove with cracks (crux) - (beta in Comment below).  All the way to the top of the groove to reach two-bolt anchor.

. . . From here could angle right up gentle slope (loose rock?) to reach at an alcove under a small roof with two-bolt anchor on top (which is directtly above the top of the route Central Fins - Left Corner).

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Top anchor bolts installed and top-rope first ascent by Sharon + Ken Roberts

Lots of interesting moves on big features of granite on the right side of the Central Fins (CF) area.

directions

: Start at the Left mid-way two-bolt anchor (which is at the intersection of the routes "Left Ledge" and "Right End Ledge"). Up right a few feet, then up left to cross above the anchor. As cross above the anchor, see three bolt lines above. The right one is a variation to join the route "Upper Right Face". The center one is for this route "CF Right Groove". The Left one is for the route "CF Wandering".

Step Left across gully onto face below nose, and climb up through notch in nose. Then up and over another nose (crux).

. . . (likely the crux could be avoided, so then the overall route difficulty would be 5.8-5.9).

Next up a shallow groove under the overhanging bulge. Then go left to its bottom left corner. Up along left side of bulge and finish on narrow chimney (at least 5.8 with some fun moves) to reach two-bolt anchor.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Two possible purposed for this route: To reach the top anchors for some routes in sector Chouinard, to set up Top-Roping.

Or to have an "adventure" combining thoughtful moves on rock with scrambling on dirt + grass + loose rocks.

Another problem is that the zig-zag in the second quarter of this route likely will give substantial rope drag.

First climb the route "Hand Traverse". Then above the notch, angle up right on loose dirt to reach a left-facing corner with ramp on its left side.

. . . Stopping to build an anchor and belay here will help avoid rope drag.

Instead of going up that corner, angle up left on ramp about 12-16 ft, then straight up through a notch about 10 ft, then traverse horizontal right about 20 ft (or diagonal up right). Turn left to go straight up gully past a chimney on its right side (or perhaps could climb the chimney?). Partway up the gully soon exit Right to avoid loose rock, and carefully get up onto flat ledge. Look horizontal to see an anchor bolt on top of protruding rock -- but the goal of this route is go much higher.

A few feet up on right side of gully, then into the gully and continue up and right, mostly hiking and easy scrambilng, but at least on more thoughtful sequence on rock. Reach flat area just left of mature tree with mulltiple trunks (this tree is above the Central Fins section). Finally walk horizontally with a few scrambling moves to reach wide flat ledge at the top of the giant dihedral / open book with a dark V slot at its top - ("Big Dihedral").

descent

: Rappel from cord anchor above top of wide Big Dihedral, about 30-35 meters down to wide platform which forms the base of the giant dihedral. Then scramble down roughly south to reach steep trail, and return to base of sector Dostie by walking down and then traverse right to get back to sector Dostie.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Some interesting moves, too bad it's not longer.

GIves access to nice platform at top of sector Chouinard with nice rappel, or can rappel from top anchor of this route.

directions

: Start at large bush above the big bulge with thin crack splitting through its center and chimney through its left side.

Up non-steep on vague ridge above large bush. Then turn Right up small slab to 6-ft-high wall facing NW with cracks in it. Up over this, then face left and go up along crack to reach tree at top with rope anchor. Or if want to go higher to a pleasant platform, there is a natural anchor about 20 feet higher with a rock horn or pair of rocks forming a hole.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Mainly a way to connect from the bottom left of the "Central Fins" part (or first part of "CF Left Corners") to the mid-way anchor for "CF Wandering" and "CF Right Groove" (and "Upper Right Face"). Also connects with the other route "Right End Ledge" coming from the opposite direction.

Lots of thoughtful interesting moves with slanted-friction feet in the second half.

directions

: Start same as "CF Left Tower + Groove" up to the first platform. Then flat / gentle over the top of the roof of the first crux of the route "CF Left Corners" to reach bolt (shared with "CF Left Corners"). Next up left to get hands onto start of positive edge going up diagonal right. Up this diagonal and pass horizontal under the overhanging crack crux of the route "CF Left Corners". Next diagonal up right about 30 feet through challenges with slopy feet to reach the Left mid-way anchor (two bolts).

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Many thoughtful moves on big features.

PG-13

? Crux is rather intimidating on lead -- and a fair chance getting hurt if fall there -- if clipping bolts in the

normal

way. But reasonably safe protection can be set up for it with some cleverness -- see below under Protection.

directions

: Start under obvious deep right-facing corner about 15-ft-high, capped by a large roof rock.

Up under the roof rock and exit right to a ledge. Next up trending right to left-most of the obvious cracks, which has horizontal "branches" and a ledge on left side halfway up. Start up that overhanging crack (crux), but exit left with hands over wide ledge . . . (unusual + a bit awkward ... but positive holds available through the sequence) . . . (For strategies to protect it, see further below).

Next up from the left end of that ledge, trending left to the right-facing corner. Up that to reach two-bolt anchor below top of wall, or continue higher to small alcove with roof, with a two-bolt anchor on top.

Variation High Finish

(5.3, no bolts or other hardware): Up past small alcove with roof on its right side. Up along right side of right-facing corner with lots of dirt + grass + loose rock -- and two sequences on more sound rock. A bit below the obvious tree, exit Left up from the right-facing corner. Then up through another thoughtful sequence on sound rack, then diagonal up right to flat platform by obvious tree, which can be used to construct a top anchor. (Camalots in range 0.5 - 2 are especially likely to be useful for protection).

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Sustained interesting moves on positive holds in the upper part. Lower part is mostly scrambling (some of it fun, some loose or vegetated), with a couple of short interesting climbing sequences.

directions

: Start from the two-bolt anchor for "Right End Ledge". Scramble up there, perhaps trending a bit right. Then aim a bit to base of obvious corner with left-facing gap. Up this (crux) then step up left to wide ledge. Follow obvious crack to its top, then aim up right on edge of ridge to two-bolt top anchor just below left from mature bush (or there is a rope-around-bush anchor).

descent

: Rappel to ground from top anchor requires 70-meter rope. With a 60-meter rope better to aim down to the top anchor for the route "Right End Ledge" (a bit right from the direct downward "fall line"), then make a second rappel from there.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Lots of interesting outdoor moves -- more challenging if take a fairly direct line from bolt to bolt.

A climber following could find interesting moves at less difficulty by pulling through the crux by grabbing the draw on the first bolt (5.5 C0), then climbing to the left of the direct line between bolts. Or by hanging an etrier / aid-ladder off the first bolt, could get the overall difficulty down to around 5.4 (and still interesting).

Follow the bolts. Decide if you want more challenge by more direct, or less difficult still interesting by trending left.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Main purpose is to reach the top anchors of the Central Fins, to set up Top-Rope.

If looking instead for an adventure which combines some thoughtful moves with scrambling on dirt + grass + loose rock, likely the route :"Connect High Chouinard" is a better choice (first half shared with this route).

Lots of horizontal traversing in the later part of this route, so likely difficult to protect a Following climber against injury if they fell.

Also it's difficult to avoid lots of rope drag because of zig-zag in the middle section.

First climb the route "Hand Traverse". Then above the notch, angle up right on loose dirt to reach a left-facing corner with ramp on its left side.

. . . Stopping to build an anchor and belay here will help avoid rope drag.

Instead of going up that corner, angle up left on ramp about 12-16 ft, then straight up through a notch about 10 ft, then traverse horizontal right about 20 ft (or diagonal up right). Turn left to go straight up gully past a chimney on its right side (or perhaps could climb the chimney?). Partway up the gully soon exit Right, and carefully get up onto flat ledge. Look horizontal to see the anchor bolt on top of protruding rock -- That's the goal of this route. Traverse horizontal right with some downward moves, until reach small alcove with rock roof. The anchor on top of this small roof could be used to belay access to other anchors to set up Top-Roping.

descent

: Use the two-bolt anchor above the small alcove to protect getting down to the lower anchor for the route "Central Fins - Left Corner", then rappel from that anchor to get back to starting platform.

. . . (or perhaps rappel from the upper two-bolt anchor in nigh alcove.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Sustained fun moves. If only the good climbing were longer.

Problem as of 2018 is finding a top anchor which can be reached without crossing lots of steep loose dirt and loose rock.

. . Still lots of loose rock above the notch.

Diagonal left up the crack, then step up right through notch. Scramble up (loose + dirty) to a convenient place to build a Trad anchor;

Variations High Finish - (1) Could connect with top anchors for first pitches of route in the Central Fins by continuing up with the route "Connect Top Central Fins"; or (2) could go higher and farther to top of sector Chouinard, then rappel down.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Lots of fun moves.

Up a couple steps to next to old tree. Diag up Left 20 ft (crossing gully along the way) to reach crack diagonal right. Use crack to move onto diagonal ramp and up right on that 10ft to base of gully filled with rectangular blocks. Straight up this to platform below gentler narrow V gully.

Step Left 10-12 ft to short face under overhang.

. . (Variation 1: Straight up final V gully to finish at 2-bolt anchor - easier but less fun).

Up short face (left side easier?) to finish on wide platform (which is diagonal left 30ft below 2-bolt anchor for the route "

Left Slab - Near Left Gully

;).

. . ? Variation ? (not checked by us): Continue above platform to finish up around right side of overhanging nose.

. . ? Project ? (not checked by us) ? Continue above platform to finish up crack/flakes on L side of overhanging nose.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it

and

supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for the climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Lots of fun moves mostly on positive holds.

Roughly straight up, staying a bit right from the Near Left gully, to high right-facing wide corner / dihedral with crack. Up that, then reach for the top.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it

and

supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for the climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Main purpose is to connect diagonal up right from the top anchor for "CF Left Tower + Groove" or upper or lower anchor for "CF Left Corner" to upper anchor for "CF Wandering" and on to anchor for "UR Corner Crack" and to bush and to upper anchor for "UR Face".

The "game" is to make fll the moves with feet on rock, not dislodging any rocks or dirt or gravel down toward the ground below.

With a variety of interesting moves -- for climbers looking for stuff at around that difficulty grade.

directions

: Start from the top anchor for the route "CF Left Tower + Groove". Diagonal up right to pass a few feet below the two-bolt upper anchor for "CF Left Corner". Continue up right (with care not to step in loose dirt / gravel) to reach wide rock ledge under the upper anchor for "CF Wandering" (which is also

over

the lower anchor for "CF Wandering". Next pass below right from obvious dead stump, and then horizontal right across vague gully.

. . . Variation: To reach the top anchor for "CF Right Groove", traverse horizontal right about 20 ft along ledge which is below the upper anchor for "CF Wandering", passing one bolt (on left side of down-pointing flake) aong the way.

Next up trending right to get on vague ridge and up that passing left of bush-with-rope anchor (optional to go closer and clip to it). and finish at two-bolt upper anchor for the route "Upper Right Face".

. . . From here, could continue up on the route "Upper Right Exit" (or possibly traverse horizontal left to join the route "Connect High Chouinard" just below its final crux sequence (no bolt, needs Trad protection).

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

:Lots of interesting moves on positive holds. Lower crux sequences requires some strenuous holds with overhang. Upper crux sequence likely includes some blind reaches, so if a leader is not real solid in the difficulty grade, suggest trying it on top-rope first.

directions

: Start at the bottom as with the route "CF - Left Corners" or "CF - Left Ledge" up to a wide groove overhanging at bottom with a crack on each side - (just right of the crux crack of "CF - Left Corners") - (a few feet below left from the Left mid-way anchor). Get up through that wide groove.

Variation higher start (skip lower crux): Start at the Left mid-way two-bolt anchor (which is at the intersection of the routes "Left Ledge" and "Right End Ledge"). Up right a few feet, then up left to cross above the anchor. See bolt lines above. The right one is a variation to join the route "Upper Right Face". The next one is for the route "CF Right Groove". So continue past those and up left to join this route.

Above the wide groove with cracks on each side, continue roughly straight up. Aim for face which is right of slanting roof and left of inside corner + chimney on left edge of overhaning bulge with splitter crack. Getting up between those is the crux. Next trend left toward bolt anchor. Then a delicate move to reach a nice hold just a bit above left from two-bolt anchor.

For further entertainment, try to top out onto flat ledge above the two-bolt anchor, to reach higher two-bolt anchor with rappel ring.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Fun moves then an unusual crux.

. . Still lots of loose rock on upper half.

Up flake and continue to top of apron. Up 6-8 feet in vertical 1-ft-wide crack. Then exit Left up onto wide ledge (crux). Finish straight to top.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it

and

supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for the climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 8-Dostie