Start towards the bottom on the pinch and use the solid feet to move up to the obvious large flake. Last few moves are tricky right before the top out so make sure you have a spotter. You can get down by sliding down the "ramp" to your left after the top out. 

Goochy Slide

Slippin' Jimmy

Bat Cave

Crackin' Baskin

Tiger Cub

Whisker Fister

Beaver Face

Welcome Mat Boulder

Long Arm Jim

Welcome to the Jumble

Mushroom Boulder

Bow Boulder

Soggy Spider

Snaggletooth

Courtyard Wall

A balancey route. Start on the arete on the left and move up and to the right to top out. Use the available pockets.

Follow the vertical crack up to where it intersects with the horizontal crack, go right on the horizontal and follow it as it curves up vertical again (this is probably the crux). Once vertical again follow it up to a nice ledge that you can rest on before following the hand crack up to top out. 

This large cave contains a couple routes. All are right around the 5.9 range and offer surprisingly good pro placements, and a single fixed pin to rapp off of.

The first couple moves are really painful hand jams in flaring conglomerate, the rock smooths out before you reach the crux, moving out and up the large rounded flake. It finishes off with some juggy overhanging moves as the crack dies out.

Fight your way up the short offwidth crack to the large ledge.

The start is tough, trust the painful jams until you get your feet, feel free to utilize the flake as well. Once you get past the start it's a sketchy fist crack to the ledge with good foot options.

Fun problem with an overhanging start, pulling over the edge is possible and a good intro to high-balling.

Juggy overhanging start up to the arete, go right until the obvious deep horizontal cut ends and move up to a small horn you can use to top out. Crux is the last sequence before the horn. 

Roof crack start with solid feet, traverse out and up the obvious line, solid hands and feet.

If you can avoid the sections of moss, you'll find some fun climbs on this large boulder. There actually are trees at the top for TR anchors, but the only way to get up is to lead a climb or solo it.

A very fun boulder with many features to choose from. Top roping is a possibility, but the overhang is so severe that it's not very practical unless you stay off to the sides. Be prepared to find some loose rock and choss.

Start climbing up the obvious crack on the right side of the cave, once you get about 6 ft up you can lay back into the back of the chimney to pass the thin section, you can just about lay back at any time to rest or place gear, the crack takes passive and active pro really well until the last ten feet or so where it turns into this horrible pebbly stuff. At that point make the short run out until you reach the large boulder that serves as the roof of the "cave", stick one last cam in the vertical crack and traverse right using this crack and exit out the top. Gritty route that's a great mix of crack and chimney climbing. Pro Tip: Bring a headlamp.

An awkward start on some weathered conglom. A couple good jugs bring you to a rest on a sloping face, followed by a fun finger/hand crack to the top-out.

This wall has 2 cracks that have been climbed so far. Both kinda die out just a few feet before the top-out. Fun climbs though, a good way to get your hands used to the conglom that dominates the area.

A LOT of work to be done in this area. With the attention of a few dedicated climbers, this area could be a very impressive climbing destination. A 1/4 mile long wall ranging from 75 to 100 feet of climbable rock. Top roping is a good idea for anyone coming here for the first time, as there is still a lot of loose rock and even moss that may jeopardize your pro placements. When setting up a TR, stay on trails or clearly solid areas. Numerous crevasses are hidden by fallen foliage and years of small brush growth. Just be careful, and be sure to record your first ascents!

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Protection

Routes in Z-Loft