This climb scales a short bolt protected face to a large left-facing dihedral. Moving through the bolts at the bottom seems the most difficult. There is a good hand jam at the roof, which is scaled in a single move. There is a good small crack above leading up a ramp to the anchors. There is lots a vegetation, bushes, in this area. If not, it might be a better climb. Some of the rock near the bottom seems a little fragile.

Top Gear

The Krooz

Carbago Delenda Est

Ripspeed

Carbage

Robert’s Arete

Spinnin’ Wheels

This is a good route, and like others here, it seems harder than the grade given in the book. The hardest part is at the bottom. There are almost no feet here, and the best hand holds are hard to reach unless you are tall. These holds are out left of the block you start off, but at least the first bolt is easy to clip at average height. There is a good rest ledge at the third bolt. Near the top is a smooth face with lots of lichen that seems difficult and a fun arete crack traverses to the anchors. You can skip the last few bolts and climb on the face to the left if you want to make the end easier.

This is an easy climb up the southwest arete and west face of the Carbage block. All the clips are made from good stances, and no area seems much harder than another. This is an easy climb, but it is nice to get up high and view the Stoked Bowl. New leaders may like the route.

This is a quality route! It is steep in its mid-section and has a powerful overhang prior to the anchor. You start on slabby rock which leads to a slightly overhanging face. On the face, there is a great hand jam that can be used as a rest spot if you know how to do so. The crux just below the anchor is well-protected.

I communicated with one of the first ascentionists, and he thinks it is a 5.12. I agree and am using the guidebook rating so others do not get confused on the routes location. Hopefully the consensus changes in the future.

This is a fun route that basically goes up the center of the south face of the Carbage Block. It starts up an easy ramp to the right and engages the steep wall above. On the steep part, the guidebook says it is easiest to go left of the bolt line. This is true in spots, but directly in line with the bolts seems the easiest in other spots. The hardest part seems like it is on the upper face of the block.

This route is interesting, not the best at the rock but worth doing. I listed the rating in the guidebook, but I think it is more difficult, maybe 11b/c. The crux at the big overhang is only a few moves but is not easy. It is not exactly a mantel as described in the guidebook. The feet are poor, and small hands are found above the overhang. Up higher, the climbing is easier, and the rock is not great but not that bad. I cleaned off some loose rock, and if more climbers do this in the future, it will get better. You cruise an easy slab at the top.

This is a fun, steep climb on the left side of the south face of the rock. The bottom seems tricky as you go through an overhang linking good edges for the hands. Some of these edges are long reaches. You get on a nice rest ledge mid-route. The face is steep above and probably the hardest part of the climb. It is tempting to use the arete near the top, but there are good edges to be found on the face to the right.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Carbage