Great route to practice your hand and foot jams. Crux is about a third of the way up as the crack flares open and out. Sink those feet and grunt and pretty soon you'll find your way to the top.

Tinkerbell's Panties

Salsa Brava

Nilbog Night Life

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Constant Gardener

Feeding Frenzy

The Net

You Can't Piss on Hospitality

Meat Hook

Going Away Party

Stinky Johnny

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No Regrets

Dirty Little Secret

Bees in the Trap

Hippie Lip Balm

Leech Line

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Gettin Woolly

Where's the Dope At?

Swole Up

Little T

Geezer Pleaser

Fuzzy Side Up

Guns n' Beer

Nachos, Lemonheads, My Dad's Boat

Flashback

Spork

Little Wing

Cock to the Rock

Heavy Flow

Sloppy Seconds

Los Two Brothers

Linear Regression

Red Devil

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Controlled Demolition

Balls to the Wall

American Juggalo

Inside Job

So What?

Start the same as Leech Line, clip the bolt and ascend the hand crack to the tree. Traverse right to the first bolt on the slabby face. Get some high feet and practice your pistol squats as you dance up on tiny edges to a crux right before the chains.

Climb through a few ledges to meet a slab face.  Conquer the small technical roof following the bolted line, no deviations. Enjoy a full rest to then wrap it up with  some technical slab moves.

Interesting slab climbing. Starting with weird moves up the runnel to weird reaches and moves above. Very clean solid rock.

Technical slab climbing with several interesting moves.

Start just right of the arête and climb up consistent steep pocket moves to the small hueco --harder to get into than it looks. Power left out of the hueco and straddle the arête on crispy crimps to the last thin moves before the anchors.

Very chossy start, fortunately protected with 1 bolt. Lots of face holds for a trad climb. Good protection placement potential in crack system.

Tough near the bottom a bit left of an orange dihedral, followed by edge climbing to the top.

Climb the clean black slab up good holds with several fun moves.

Start up the ramp to gain the pocketed face. Punch through a series of moves to reach the hueco -- still not easy to get into from this angle either. Follow more enjoyable holds and a few crimps to the top.

Great break into the 10's. Follow trail left to Hippie Lip Balm, then trek about 15 feet up the steep incline on the right.

This technical, sustained face climb begins on a boulder left Hippie Lip Balm. Follow crimps up the wall with some delicate smears and small edges.

Starts slabby then moves to vertical crimpy face moves up the beautiful face above.

Climb up through a very technical dihedral feature to a roof. Gain the blank face above after a hard crux through the bulge and finish on invisible micro-crimps.

Solo up the easy but unprotectable dihedral to gain a ledge.  Place a piece and break out your gardening skills to take the finger crack up to shared anchors with Heavy Flow.  Could be a decent line if the crack wasn't packed full of mud and vegetation; but not horrible as-is.  You read the name before you got on it, so don't complain now!

Start between the 5.9 Arete and the obvious crack. Climb the plated face and wonder if this is really 11d until you get to the top and wonder if this is only 11d.

A few hard moves to get off the ground followed by nicely featured slab. If you use the tree it is 5.7 but without the tree seemed more like 10b. Great climbing and fun moves.

Starts on a techy face with a bolt, the direct start is much harder than 5.10. Easier variations are to start from the left or right and traverse over. Climb the well-featured hand crack to a tree. Head left at the tree to climb the wide crack to the finish on bolted anchors.

Crimpy, technical climbing on a slightly less than vertical slab.

You'll be flying high as you cruise through the big moves down low until you get to the first crux around the fourth bolt, which will feel harder if you're shorter than 5'10". Figure that out and get to easier terrain, hoping you still have enough to pull the heartbreaker finish. Friendly hint, all the ticked holds at the end suck, but what doesn't kill you makes you stronger.

Easy climbing on an arete to a show stopper move to easy climbing.  If you are short this is really hard...5.12c... if you are tall it is much easier...5.11c...but consensus for average height people puts it at 5.11d.

Dive into the demanding hand to chimney crack right of Bees in the Trap. Leave the Big-Bros behind because a hidden medium cam placement can be found in the chimney section. Large cams can be utilized up high.

Fun arete climbing require lots of balance and technical stances.

Despite the name, this is one of the best easier routes at Secret Garden.

Climb the crack in the back left of the cave until you get to the roof. Either go up the chimney then traverse to the face or tiptoe along the rail until you can gain the right face. Climb to the hole with tat and rings or finish on the lichen-ey slab to a tree. Rap off the tree or walk over to Hippie Lip Balm and rappel onto those anchors. You can also probably traverse to those anchors without topping out. Route should be fun once it starts seeing more traffic.

Climb the dihedral to the left of You Can't Piss on Hospitality. You will find yourself mostly stemming than using the crack. Don't curse to much trying to clip the chains.

A tough start leads to a stance below a roof.  Surmount the roof and take on thought provoking vert and slab climbing broken up by good rests.

This line is the tall, superb crack that splits the middle of the wall. Climb the left side of the blocky crack to the top of the wall. Rope drag can be greatly reduced by running out the start to a large ledge where you can place gear up in a little roof. Move out of the roof into a dihedral that leads to another roof. Climb over this roof using a massive undercling and climb large plated jugs to the anchors.

Climb through an awkward start on slightly slopy holds to a layback crack up to a large ledge. Continue above the ledge on good crimpy plates to the anchors.

Begin on a dirt ledge and pull up onto a stepped rock ledge to gain the face. Pull a difficult low move then cruise up the slab passing a trio of shallow huecos. Stick clip the second bolt if you want to be super safe.

Start with some tough slab movements to get above the second bolt. Clip one more bolt and angle left to the crack. Take the crack to the top on an easy slab, plugging gear along the way.

A fun line with some tricky, technical sections. The bolting is friendly and the movement is classic.

Start climbing up through big holds to a crimpy bolder problem. Get a shake at the no hands rest then climb beautiful rock up to the large hueco. A few more moves and you will be clipping the anchors.

Great slab climbing! Hard crux in the middle will require some thinking.

Grab a nice, fat, square flake to get to the first bolt then shift right. Play around in a pair of huecos in the middle of the wall after which the angle kicks back a bit.

Mount the ledge above the first bolt then climb extremely easy juggy slab up the orange face until it gradually gets steeper and you are wishing for those giant jugs you were on before. Find  couple great holds and clip the anchors.

Grovel up a short corner to begin and gain the ledge. Grab the fat, but very solid flake jug and pull around the right side of the roof onto the face. Climb through plated holds to a roof, where a no-hands rest is gained out left. Surmount the roof to a slabby boulder problem requiring balance, compression, and probably route finding -- maybe your partner will chalk up the holds for you...or not.

Balance and tip toe your way up slab moves with some cruxy moves along the way.

Pull onto the wall over a cave and climb through and initially thin section in order to gain a large break. Climb the featured face above to a flake system that trends right then straight up; follow this to the chains.

Enjoyable climbing and well-bolted for novice leaders.

Step up onto a waist high ledge to begin. Solve a tricky, spicy section between bolts 2 and 3 to reach a nice horizontal slot where another tough move awaits. More technical climbing on edges and knobs leads to the chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Secret Garden