The furthest left route on the lower right flank of Wall 3.

Start down at the toe of the arete just before where the 3rd class gully to the tower starts. Use the first crack for your right and the arete for your left. Don't bother trying to place any gear for the first 40 feet. Your first good piece will be a #3 at the start of the OW/squeeze chimney high up. Get inside and grovel for just enough before busting through. Now head up and left to that jagged patina face. Traverse over to what looks like a good crack, but in reality is a shallow seam. But wait! You actually can get a good finger piece in down low  but that's all you're going to have until you reach the top, so get going...

Rich Beckett getting ready to exit the chimney following on the FA. (Photo Jan Roestel)

More Catastrophic than 'Armageddon'

A Frog in My Hand

Good God, a Cow Cut in Two!

What on Earth?

Shark Ride

I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat

Birthday Party

One Year Later (Un An Plus Tard)

I Could Eat a Horse

What Have You Done with My Walls?

Don't Forget My Boots!

Putrid Rat

Blow Hard

Hang On, Kid!

Start "Putrid Rat" then cut left to the next crack, then head straight up. You won't find comfortable pro until about 1/3 of the way up.

A #1 Mastercam doubled with a #2 at about 40' will finally ease your mind, a bit.

Get a pretty good cam in the flaring crack at the horizontal before finishing the last 25-30' on semi-crumbly flakes with no gear.

Follow this line to finish "Hang On, Kid"

Slightly contrived, but mainly for the fun factor. Solo straight up the face right of Shark Ride up to the first dish/pod, then continue straight using the arete for your right hand and whatever features for your left up to the big oak tree. Sling the tree then climb the short slightly overhung V0+ boulder problem behind the tree (the tree is off, haha) to the ledge on the pillar. Now head straight up the pillar (there are a few horizontal slots for good gear but through some slings on them to minimize drag) ending at the tower belay for "Shark Ride."

Chris Wing riding the fin shared with "Shark Ride" during the FA of "Frog in My Hand"

Finish on the Tower whichever way you want.

If you see a fork in the road, take it.

Start below the oak tree that's growing out of the crack and good for slinging, and go straight up to the bulgy blocks and choose either some nice stemming (left, 5.6) or move right at the first horizonal past the tree and follow that crack to the top (right, 5.7).

It's much cleaner now than on the FA (the tree has been trimmed back)

Start either at either Horse, Pussy Cat or Cow and finish on the short, flared finger crack between Pussy & Cow.

On the lower left flank of Wall 3.

The start of "Shark Ride" (Yes, you can get a good cam in that hole where the seam heads up right, but your next piece won't be for another 20' at least)

Fun & spicy on hard rock to start. The mental crux is following the diagonal seam on your toes up to the first pod, only to discover you can't place any gear until you pull through to the next pod at about 35'. From there, walk your toes across the left-leaning crack and then straight up to a shelf below a mini-bulge/roof. Pull the roof with a double gaston then head right over to the pinnacle. Slot a piece on the second horizontal and then surmount the shark fin, up and over on a razor edge and follow this up and back to the upper left side of the Wall 3 Tower. Build your anchor here in the horizontal crack above the pedestal you're on.

One anchor option.

Pitch two takes the thin crack up to the next horizontal break and then a beautiful lieback flake (if only it were 30 feet longer...). Sling the flake or place a marginal bigger cam to the right of your feet, then finish up the patina edges on the face.

Looking up at P2. Take the thin crack up.

A full-value route.

Looking down from the top of "Shark Ride"

The attractive lightning bolt line below the big oak tree on the right side of Wall 3 Tower.

Alex Lau enjoying the wonderful fingers following on the FA of "I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat"

A contender for the best finger-crack route in the area (if only the upper part were a lot longer, alas). Head straight up to the horizontal, step right and go. The rock is on the soft side and skidaddly down low but gear will become abundant. Sew it up or just enjoy the ride. Build an anchor off the tree.

It's a good idea to set up a toprope and run a lap on "What on Earth?" and/or "Cow" and/or "I Could Eat a Horse" if you're in that kinda mood. (And, if you rap off here, double check that the webbing hasn't been chewed through again.)

Bill Flaherty looking for a placement before the horizontal on "I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat"

The main crack up the center of the tower through the easy chimney finishing straight up on the face at the top. Sandier rock than other parts, but the slipping and sliding adds to the fun. Most of the crimpy plates on the face up top are a lot more solid than they appear.

Andreas Skielboe on "Birthday Party" on Wall 3 Tower

Was this named in honor of Monsieur Cheval, or was it the fact that the FA coincided with Christian's birthday? We may never know...

On the lower right flank of Wall 3.

Start on the middle prominent right leaning crack. Follow this up all the way up to a pod then traverse across the left-leaning crack over to the face then finish up under the roof block. (Or you can finish straight up from the pod.) Walk off the back to the base of Wall 3 Tower and do a 2nd pitch or just take the 3rd class back down to the start.

This climb starts at the obvious wide crack on the right side of Wall 3 Tower.  Up some easy terrain until the last 15' of 5.7 OW.  It protects with either one big piece, or a small piece in the finger crack just to the left.

Start at the lowest point of Wall 3 Tower and head up to just before the chimney. Cross over right to the finger crack and head straight up passing several insecure moves. At the top of the crack, gain the ledge and carefully work around and over the "flake of doom" onto the face. Move up trending left to the top.

Alex Lau coming up the face on the FA of "What Have You Done with My Walls"

On the lower right flank of Wall 3.

Start the right-leaning crack just left of "One Year Later" following this up and then left under the second mini roof and the crack of "Shitty Little Fishmen" until you can cross under the top roof (see topo). You can also rejoin the original crack and continue up to the face and the lower top out.

The long hand crack directly underneath the rap rings, just left of the U-notch at the top.

The name comes from a dead rat that made us hurry past some of the fun jams on the first ascent.  Don't worry though, the namesake is now long gone.

Start underneath the crack (or bypass the start) and cruise to the notch at the top.  Alternatively just keep climbing to the bolted anchor.

When rappelling, a 60 m rope will get you 20'+ from the ground.  Either down climb or just swing left and take the 3rd class gully the last few feet.  Just be mindful of where your ends are.

The furthest right crack worth climbing. A quick way to the belay tree to get into good position to take pics of people actually climbing.

Description

Protection

Routes in Wall 3