Desperate start followed by easy climbing to the chains.

Universal Gravitation

Revenge of the Sith

Prey

Three Amigos

Mossy Mayhem

Out of the Dark

Trekker of the Treacherous

Predator

Radical Evolution

Where's My Chisel

Backstabber

Primordial Dissonance

Moonshine

Directed Panspermia

Morning Sun

Sunbeam

Stems and Seeds

Roof near start with large drop off behind. Pull roof to easier climbing.

Climbs a dirty 3rd class gully below the ledge routes on the left side of a small pinnacle.

Scramble up to the good first ledge, traverse out right, clipping the first bolt, and pull the roof. Once you are on the ledge above the first roof, the second bolt is low, and the third bolt is easily reachable, making for an optional second bolt. (Skipping the bolt does not seem to add any serious runout, but evaluate yourself.) The rest is decently pumpy, and clipping the anchors is not without some work.

This route climbs the right side of the pinnacle mentioned in the previous route.

The leftmost route on the ledge.  Start with a tough reachy move to pull yourself onto the face, continue on small crimps to reach a jug, mantle into the finish.

This overhanging route right of "Universal Gravitation" begins above the boulder leaning against the cliff. Steep climbing that pulls straight up through two bulges.

One move wonder stepping up onto the slab at the second bolt.

Pull a roof at the start and climb the face to the anchors hanging off the higher roof.

Climb up to a bolt below a right leaning crack that ends on a ledge.  Clip another bolt the pull the roof to reach another crack leading to another ledge with bolted anchors.

Start up a short section of rock with a single bolt protecting to reach a large ledge.  Step right around the small arete and clip the next bolt.  The crux is getting through this short roof.  Make some tough moves to get established above the next roof.  Follow easier holds to the finish.

Difficult toprope up a thin face and flake.

Route goes out to the right. Bouldery moves on good holds with a couple rests, slightly overhanging.

Climb the same start as Moonshine.  Stay left of the arete for a difficult roof pull.  Clip the long SS cable hanging from the bolt and make very strenuous moves to get established above the roof.  Follow pumpy slots and horizontals to the anchor.

Beware the crux has ledge fall potential without a watchful belay.

This short dihedral climb thins out pretty quick. Those who are taller will have an advantage reaching the high right crimps (about three depending on finger size). Make sure you have some good rubber for the necessary stems.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sunbeam Buttress