Starts on the ledge above ED and BG. Choose your own adventure: clip the bolts to climb as an extension of BG or plug some pro to climb as an extension of ED. Primarily easier moves for the grade until a high crux pulling the bulge to get to the anchors. Sport climbers will find the crux much easier if they ask their trad buddies how to hand jam first. The anchors look high from the ground, but a 60m rope is still plenty regardless of which route you're extending.

The Pessimist

Gnome Wrecker

Endangered Species

El Patron

Melancholy Mechanics

Areterection

Ring of Fire

Treetop Terror

No Bones About It

Tug-O-War

Environmental Imperialism

Water Music

Scrumbulglazer

Cheetah

Black Tide (CLOSED)

Tradisfaction

Kentucky Waterfall

Augenblick

Indecision

Flying J

Ascentuality

Walk the Line

Dreamthiever

Psycho Billy Cadillac

Climb the face until the holds fade, then reach around the arete for a blind side-pull. Work the arete until the bolts stop just before some large blocks, then run it out on easy climbing to get on top of the ledge containing anchors for ED. Clip one more bolt with an extended draw, if you wish, then make a few more moves to the chains above ED's anchor. Bolted during BG's ("Big Gio's") first weekend back to climbing after a medical hiatus.

Climb up the flake system to a thought-provoking boulder problem. From here climb on pockets and edges up the gold streak.

Interesting slab and face climbing just right of Black Tide before you get to The Pessimist. An awkward anchor placement at the top detracts somewhat.

An awesome route thats got a little of everything including a tufa/chimney.  Belays off a ledge. Two bolt extension makes grade 12-.

Fantastic little overhang to a hanging slab/face separated by good rests. Holds water a bit longer than the other routes here.

Good, vertical route on nice gray stone. Starts with steeper climbing on juggy pockets and then ascends the less featured upper wall.  The route tends to meander right and left through the center section.  This route is still a little dirty, but should clean up nicely with more traffic.  The plaque at the base calls this route 5.11a, the guidebook calls it 5.10d.  It's a fine line, so you be the judge.

This is a nice line up a bolted arete.  Powerful and bouldery up the first part of the route gives way to less steep and easier climbing to the chains.

Start on steep slots and pockets to a pumpy sequence nearing the lip. Make a mantle, of sorts, onto the slab. Eye up the array of different holds until ready to fire off into a technical smearfest of a boulder. If your feet did you well, finish off on large jugs to the chains.

Climb past a finger crack flake to a slab above.  The route takes a mixture of gear and bolts.

Climb up the right-facing slot with a thin-hands crack.  Continue up slightly overhanging crack with mostly thin-hands to a right-facing V-slot.  Take this to a section of poor rock (caution!).  Above this section of bad rock the anchor is visible.  Take the mostly hand crack to the anchor.  This route is mostly high quality, but loses a star because of the poor rock near the top.

Vertical and technical climbing using pockets and edges is what this route is all about.  Can be a little dirty, but will clean up to be a good route.

This amazing and varied line is a stunner. Unique cruxes including a mantle/deadpoint that favors taller climbers separated by some super classic 5.11. A nice NHR in the middle of the route before the upper 5.12 crux leaving the ramp. Finish on very fun desert climbing to the anchors. Belay from the Via Ferrada which is more spacious and chill than you might imagine.

Good, vertical route on nice gray stone.  Starts with steeper climbing on juggy pockets and then ascends the less featured upper wall to a two bolt anchor.

A big move right off the start to some horizontals. Then another big move to a terrible sloper, left to some crimps and up to another horizontal. Continue up on thin crimps to the left of the bolts.

The bolt line on this route is to the right of the climbing for the second half. The bolts are also very close together.

Stick clip because of the opening move.

**CLOSED DUE TO SAFETY CONCERNS**

Follows the rotten, hollow flake flanking the left side of "Gnome Wrecker"

Climb up a short broken chimney to a ledge.  From the ledge climb the right-facing dihedral using jams, stems, and liebacks to a bolted anchor.

This is a variation to the upper part of Tradisfaction.

Climb that route until you can exit left up the arching layback finger crack. Smooth feet make it strenuous and pumpy.

Vertical start leads to slightly easier climbing.  Good climbing on edges, pockets, and smears.

Climb up the pocketed face to the left-facing dihedral.  Follow the dihedral to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

This is a fun mixed line with a good bit of variety.  The start has some questionable rock, but this portion is bolt protected.  A great lead for a budding trad leader.  Get some good practice placing a variety of gear.

Start from a boulder at a steep bulge.  Step up through some easy ledges to the bolt.  Clip the bolt and get under the slightly awkward mini roof (crux).  Start plugging pro in the crack that leads up and right through some ledges.  Follow the crack further up and right until it turns left.  Follow the groove/crack to an easy slab section to the two bolt anchor.

Mixed route that starts on jugs near an overhanging arete left of a giant beech tree.  Power past the bolt protected crux the place gear in horizontals and finish with bolts on an overhanging plated face above.

Climb up the technical face past three bolts to below the beautiful left-arching dihedral.  Climb the dihedral using fingers and the occasional face hold.

A fun mixed line that climbs the easiest path through the large roof.  Some big airy moves between large juggy horizontals make this an exciting lead for the grade.

Find the easiest jugs hands low to reach and start yarding through big horizontals.  Clip the first bolt and continue up underneath the roof.  Clip the next bolt and "walk the line" under the roof to a slightly tricky step around.  Be sure to extend both bolts to prevent drag up high.  Get established into the crack and start placing gear.  Follow the crack with some great stemming and jams to a very easy slab with a single bolt.  Clip the bolt or place gear in the horizontals on the slab or skip the pro all together.  Paddle your way up the short distance to the anchors.

Roof crack above Tradisfaction. Climb Tradisfaction and traverse to the right to set up a gear belay in the cave. Power out the roof crack to the top of the wall and a bolted anchor.

Right of Indecision.  Steep rock past 2 bolts and a roof.  Go right and then up the face and cracks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Stadium