Start on the blunt arete with a bouldery crux.  Clip a high bolt and continue moving left along the handrail, clipping whatever bolts you can reach or find.  Some of these bolts may be on the Pincher, or as you get higher, maybe even Ben Dover.  Continue up and left until you decide to head to the anchors.  Sorta cool moves on ok rock.  The fall for the follower is not so good.  Be alert.  The ground is very close.

Eileen Dover

The Pincher

Ben Dover

This route is just right of Ben Dover.  It might even share bolts with Ben Dover.  Who knows.  The entire wall is sort of a confused mess of bolts and squeeze jobs, this one probably being the worst offender.  Basically take the easiest way up the wall, using whatever jugs may appear.

This route takes the left most line of bolts on the wall.  The bolts sprayed into this wall are semi confusing, and I found the second bolt real hard to clip.  If you move slightly to the left into a broken corner, the moves are easier on worse rock.  At the top, you can move left to a slightly easier top out, or move right to a very easy top out, or go straight up for a contrived and harder top out.  The climbing is good, but contrived, and the moves can be interesting if you pick and use the nice jugs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Ben Dover Face