Similar to Buckwheats but steeper and the rock isn't as good of quality especially up high. There is lichen on the edges on the left face as well. Might clean up with traffic.

Take care with the finish. The gear is sparse and its not over when you reach the ledge.

Stephanie Bauer Route

Wake and Bake

Fairweather Friend

Swallow the Hollow

The Rusty Philosopher

Gremlins-N-Harmony

Jingus Khan

Hood Luck

Wrong Turn

June Bug

Cannabis Love Generator

Banjolero

Turkey Crossing

Buckwheats Climb for Stef

The Right Bauer

October Sky

Yell Fire!

Love Potion  9

Legalize It

Severn Bore

Spoiler Bait

Whippoorwill

Deeznuts

The Country Boy

Boilerplate

Hippie Speed Ball

This route is an obtuse flake/dihedral on the slab to the right of Turkey Crossing. Follow the crack to anchors hidden on the ledge.

The route climbs better and is better quality than it looks form the ground.

From redriverclimbing:

15 feet right of the previous line is another crimp fest but with more holds than its neighbor. Begin on a ledge and step and reach up the slightly less than vertical face. Shift slightly left just before the shuts.

A varied line that throws a little slab, stemming and pump at you.

Awkward pods and pockets on a slab lead to a mantle off some classically southern slopers.  Follow an easy corner with pockets in the crack until the angle steepens.  A brief stemming crux on scoops gains nice pockets to the top.

Walk downhill from June Bug to locate this striking line which climbs easier than it appears. Begin off the boulder on the left and climb up to a stance beneath the meat of the line. Take on the steep face making use of Scream-face holds to reach the obvious duck-bill feature. Shake out then make more big moves culminating in a desperate finale for the chains. No gigantic cheater slings on the anchors! Classic and makes a trip to the Crossroads well worth while

Left-most bolted route on the face with the wave shaped roof. Crux is down low. Nice rock with fun moves.

Climb the thin crack as the wall kicks back vertically. Get in some good stemming moves, and then hand jam to the top. Although same anchors as Banjolero, for some spicier beta, wedge yourself into the crack at the top until gaining the ledge, don't clip the bolts on the other routes.

Start off the ledge with a tricky boulder to gain a collection of huecos. Exit into thin, parallel runnels going up the gold wall. Punch through crimpy sequences utilizing features on both sides until a final toss to the clipping jug.

Belaying on the ground, below the ledge, is recommended.

Super cool features up a brilliant orange streak lead to a stout crimpy crux. Trend left at the 6th bolt to keep it at 12a.

Climb up to a ledge and scope out the vert golden wall above. Pull onto the face and bust through a couple tough pocket pulling sequences with poor feet, gunning for better holds above.

For those who thought Crossroads was all slab. Right of Boilerplate is this steep and well featured face. Begin with some big move cruxes down low then continue up through steep jugs to the chains.

-From redriverclimbing

From redriverclimbing:

Just right of the previous line is another overhanging pocketed line. Climb deep pockets to an obvious crux. Continue on jugs to the anchors or keep moving to the anchors on the previous line for more value.

A fun steep and pocketed route that saves the crux for the last move.

Start in a dihedral feature where left wall is covered in pockets.  Make the easy moves to get to the first bolts.  Get into the dihedral feature using and use the steep pockets to get through the next few bolts.  Move left at the top onto a flake feature on the left face.  Hurry up and make the last few tough moves before your arms give out and clip the anchors.

Climb the low angle widening crack in the dihedral on the left side of the recess just before A1A.

Climb the ribbed finger crack splitting the face at the very left end of the slab/wave wall. Somewhat insecure climbing through pods with marginal gear.

A classic overlooked face climb with thought provoking moves on a beautiful orange wall with unique holds. The start is a little slabby and awkward but quickly turns to excellent climbing on bullet hard sandstone. The crux is met at about 2/3 height

A good slab problem that requires good footwork and some confidence.

Start at the left end of the wave like roof.  Slap and smear your way to the first stance on the short flake feature.  Make thin moves up to the next bolt below the roof.  Figure out how to make the tough stand up to shoot for the jug at the roof.  Make a few more difficult moves to get above the roof and enjoy the easier slab to the last section of pockets.  Pull through moderate pockets on some steep terrain to get to the chains.

Fun face climbing for the first half of the route, and sloping slots with tricky feet for the second half

Forty feet of fun with a nice solid crux at the third clip

Continuous climbing through positive but sharp crimps, sidepulls and pinches.

This unique looking route offers a spectacular lower section with thoughtful moves and a cool roof.  Unfortunately, the second half is forgettable and sandy.

Delicate slab moves on maroon colored, alligator skin rock leads to a balancy stand up move to reach a good rail in the roof.  Ride the good holds to the crest of the wave-like roof and make a hard lock-off to gain better holds.  The final 40 feet is easy, but dirty slab with a short vertical section on big flakes.

Climb good ledges to fun slab moves. Finish on a monster bucket

Surmount the starting choss gate to gain a ledge. Start inching your way up the slab until you have no idea where the holds are and somehow keep going up. Eases up about halfway to fun, tech climbing on solid edges.

Definitely doesn't see much traffic, a lot of lichen and other fun things growing all over the face.

Climb just right of a crack using face holds and and the crack to make it to a bulging feature just before the anchors.  This route can be climbed on gear.

This route begins with a fun reachy bouldery section at the bottom that moves into an easy jug haul at the end. The last bolt is a little bit runnout.

Super fun climbing for the grade with everything from slab to slightly overhung. Heady, exposed feeling at the top (crux section)!

Start down low with some good holds. The second bolt looks high from the ground, but the climbing is easy to get there. Take on some tougher climbing involving long pulls on pockets to move through the middle of the climb. There are a couple of okay rests to recover at. From the last bolt, trend right on tough crimps to get to the anchor clip.

This route is in the guidebook as 11d, but might be a touch harder.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Crossroads