This route was quite good. Sustained technical crimping.A gymnastic and bouldery route up the steep face to the right of Dirty Little Girl. The pockets down low tempt you into thinking this one might not be too bad- and it isn't, assuming you can sort the beta quickly and efficiently.

 I would recommend pre-hanging the first two draws and stick-clipping the first on this one to keep your ankles intact if you biff the opening boulder problem. Don't worry- it's not the crux!

Messie Nessie

Practice Crack

Show Burro

City Slickers

Repo Man

Lick it

Dirty Little Girl

Country Bumkin

Headmaster Ritual

The Figurine

Electric Orange Pealer

This one may be harder than 10d. Iv'e heard that something has broken since I last did it.Start on steep jugs. Then follow 6 bolts up a slightly technical face.

The dogleg crack. It actually is better than it looks. Nice hand jams and a bit of problem solving to get out of the crack and onto the ledge.

You can either sart in the same crack as Lick It and then traverse around to the first bolt or you can start in the crack directly below. The direct start is slightly harder. Although this one is bolted it shouldn't be consdered a sport climb. The bolts are pretty sporty and the rock is very chossy. The only reason to do this one is if you just need to make a check mark in the book. (That's why I did it).

Start in the tunnel to the left of the formation and chimney up to a good 0.5 Camalot placement. Swing wildly onto the face, clip a bolt, and do some powerful moves to access the crack. This can be followed to an anchor at the top of the wall.

PG rating on this one. It's delicate and technical getting to the second bolt. If you come off here you're going to swing back into the ledge. I believe some of the holds have broken since the first ascent as it felt considerably harder than 11a.

Lick it starts with an enjoyable 5.8 crack. From the top of the crack 3 bolts and 5.11 climbing will get you to the anchor.Climb a nice tight-hands crack in varnished rock, the step right and clip the first of four widely-spaced bolts. The upper headwall is steep, exposed, and requires a bit of commitment. Easier than the route to the left (contrary to guidebook rating), but perhaps a bit more sustained. A fun route!

Typical Red Rocks crimping on small edges. The crux is trying to figure out how to get past the ledge in the middle of the climb.

Fairly sustained and pumpy crimping on the varnished vertical face.This route has the appearance of being a complete pile, but it climbs rather well. This takes the rightmost bolted line on the right face of the upper tear of the Mall.

This route was fun, but a little dirty.  I kept breaking off foot holds.  With some more traffic it would get a star or two.   The crux is the first 20 feet of OW and the protection is good.  The rest of the climb is easier chimney, with adequate protection.

A nice hand and fist crack. If you want to up the ante try doing it without steming.

This is an excellent sport and trad area. It's sunny all day. A great winter venue with a short hike and several quality lines that rarely get climbed.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Playground (AKA The Mall)