This route is one of the more consitent off-fingers routes at indian creek. It is also one of the better quality corners to be had at this cliff.

Find a well-chalked left-facing off-fingers crack in a dark rock area, just a ways right of Dawn Of An Age, and left of the namesake Blue Gramma pitch.  Run up sustained off-hands (too thin) and finger stacks with laybacks, pumping with few rests for 90' to the anchors.  SWEET.

People with sausage-like fingers may find it easier, but skinny fingered climbers will find it hard.  It's moves and dark varnish texture are both reminiscent of The Wave - this route may be shorter, but seems pumpy, for lack of rests and thinner size.

Formerly Aided (aka Juniper Twig)

Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge)

Hayley's Heyday

Unnamed II (fingers through fists)

Petrelli Motors

Cricket roof

Giulia

Unnamed 5.11-

Desert Siren (Tower)

Unnamed 5.10 Flake

Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor)

Unknown far left (AKA: Benny's Junk Yard)

Blue Gramma

Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod)

Dawn of an Age

The Price of Evil

Moon Goddess Revenge

Last Resort

Left of 5.10 Flake

Rt 1

Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral)

Park at Blue Gramma and head up the hill.  This climb is just to the left, on aspect of the cliff that is facing the road.

This Left-facing Corner is just left of "Formerly Aided" and just right of an Unnamed 5.9 Right Facing corner, or 2 cracks to the right of Dawn Of An Age.  The crack starts fairly small (and easy) and gets harder as the size, angle, and pump increase towards the top.  There does not seem to be a technical crux.

The rock here is a little more corse and soft than in some other climbs, so it is a little sandy.  It is another great corner climb in Indian Creek though, and one you can easily protect without a truckload of cams.  2 sets should do nicely.

Rap or lower from the fixed anchors.

Starts with a couple interesting moves off the ground that lead to a big-hands splitter to the right of the corner.  Climb up through a bulge and continue to an anchor of two drilled angles.

Climb a left-facing corner that goes from hands to cups to fists to offwidth.  It keeps getting wider as you go higher.  Fun route!

Find this route toward the right-hand side of the developed area of Blue Gramma Cliff, just to the left of some large petroglyphs, in a sandy, light-colored section of rock.

Petrelli Motors, a relatively short climb (60'), starts in a sandy tips-to-first-knuckle crack. Place a few TCUs in the start and move up through the crux to where the the rock becomes slabby, but more solid. A few move moves take you to the second section on some soft footholds (trust them?) where you can stick in a few more cams and go for the anchors.

The route is worth doing if you are there and are ready to pack it up, but is certainly no destination-maker.

Starts up a easier slabby varied crack until you arrive at the roof, where you clip the piton and head right through some delicate slab moves into the stellar roof crack traverse.  It gradually gets larger until the gnarl just before a break and the last few commiting moves.  By using some rope magician skills ensure your rope doesn't snag on your gear on the final roof and then up to the rim!

A worthy wide crack roadside attraction and a fitting tribute to Craig Luebben's memory, this route is named after his daughter, Giulia.

A beautiful and deceptively challenging bomb bay flare start leads to moderate 9" offwidthing, past a bolt to the base of the final, varnished 9" roof guarding the chains.

This offset crack is a dark seam in the rock just to the right of UN 10+ and can share the same anchor. We set up a TR with a directional from UN 5.10+ anchors, but it can probably be led with some runout slab just below the anchors.  Crack is mostly finger sized,  with a few and far between "almost" hand jams. There's possible to find some small face features for your left foot.

This route climbs the prominent tower on the right side of Blue Gramma.

Pitch 1: (5.11) Starts on a good ledge just below a large juniper tree. Climb up slabby rock to the crack in a left facing corner. The crack starts out .75 camalot but quickly gets wider to a #3 camalot climb into pod just below the flared roof crack which is protected by a old 4.5 camalot. Climb out roof crack (crux) mostly #3 camalot but takes #4's at the lip. Pull roof on to small ledge and continue up to large sloping ledge to the right of the blunt arete. Build an anchor here in the horizontal .75- 3 Camalots.

Pitch 2: (5.10 PG13) Climb left around the arete and on to the face. At the first broken section you can get a red alien or .75 camalot. Continue face climbing up on good features following 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor just below the summit.

Descent: Rappel the route with two ropes from the two bolt anchor on the summit. Two 60m ropes will get you to the ground. Be careful to not get you rope stuck in the crack.

Start up the wide hands left facing corner #3 camalot, to where it widens for about 10 feet of fists #4 camalot, holds on the flake make this section a little easier.  Finally things narrow providing a nice rest for the tricky finish.  The crack pinches down forcing a awkward layback to the anchors.  The smaller gear you bring the higher you will be able to protect.

This climb is a left-facing flake several meters left of the classic climb Blue Gramma. It climbs up and right to reach that same anchor.

Mentally, climbing up and over right to the fixed pin is taxing. Soft rock 5.10- on so-so spaced gear. CLip the pin and power up on slightly dusty rock (don't slip) to reach good cupped hands and a few fists in the long crack above.

The crux may be getting off of the ground more than a few meters- the bottom is a bit sandy. Place a piece and step up onto the leaning crack and footholds to the left. Someone stacked cheater stones at the base, but these are totally unnecessary. Climb up on mixed jams to just over a final bulge with a newly refurbished fixed anchor (2006, actually). Rap with a 70M rope. A 60M rope WILL NOT get you down.

The present anchor at the top with a fixed #11 hex and pin were extensively tested, but the rock is a little soft and the anchor should be checked carefully before implicit trust is given it.

Climb up an initial steep move with a 1" or 1.5" cam to access the flake and slab- climb up easy moves leap-frogging the 1" or 1.5" gear to save it for later if you are shy on gear. Continue up to darker and steeper rock, placing a few larger cams (1-2 each 2"-3.5" cams) in wide spots, again to save your 1" and 1.5" gear. Access a good 'pod' in the flake which provides a great stance from which to launch the assault on the meat of the route- the next 10 meters, which will be primarily lie-backs with surprisingly good feet.

Dump any big gear you have left at the low end of this pod then place a 1" cam and a 1.5" cam above it and go. 2-4 more 1.5" placements will get you to the lower angle climbing. Put in gear where you have the best footholds and run between them. Just as you get too pumped, the lower angle rock arrives with a few good jams and a placement for a 2" cam. Finish on the slabby moves to clip a 3-chain anchor.

I gave this climb 5.11- relative to "Formerly Aided" and "Unnamed" which are also rated 5.11 at that cliff and both substantially harder.

This "Unnamed 10+" is one of the best lines at Blue Gramma.  It lies in-between the route Blue Gramma (to the left) and Petrelli Motors (to the right).  Look for a right-facing dihedral approximately 30' left of Petrelli Motors.  Crux is getting out of the pod.

A very good fist crack with a 8-10 foot 4-5" section at the top (sporting a few helpful edges).  Not quite as clean as the superb "unnamed" just to the right, but well worth it.  A short ways up and left from the parking area--look for "unnamed", which is the prominent, super-clean and splitter corner about 50 feet high--this is the next corner left.

The Price of Evil is a second pitch flared 15 foot roof, to a desperate flared lip encounter, to a flared 45 degree, overhanging, desperate, blue collar grovel. First pitch is fun 5.9

This route is to the far right side of Blue Gramma. I have not done this route, but am adding it here to designate that it is closed. Some very nice petroglyphs are withing a climber's reach/stem of the crack and I presume that this is why the route has been stripped of its anchors. Please do not climb it.

Just up and right of this route, 10-15 meters over and above a shelf there are somne VERY nice freemont culture glyphs as well. Worth checking out!

A short and awkward climb on less than quality rock, a bit loose at the top. Some bushes out right. Would recommend almost any route other than this at the cliff, but hell still a fun short one.

Unsure on the name of this one, give a shout if you have any info!

Start hands up in to a room-type thing. Place gear here on long runner, chimney down 10 feet or so, and then pull hard OW moves in to some big fists to the anchor.

This route is not described in the Bloom book. But then again, I can't find the 3 mystery climbs that are, so maybe he just has this one wrong?

Climb up the corner with the hands-to-fist crack, and the hand-to-fist crack just right of it (#3-3.5 camalot) Reach the roof, protect it (1-1.5" gear) and pull in over it (crux, 5.10) and climb the corner system above to a solid anchor.

The anchor is now an equalized #10 hex (textbook placement I just set in) and a drilled pin on the face.  A perfectly good carabiner is up top and should be switched for a rapid link by someone (I was out again).

It's hard for me to give a fifty foot route 3 stars, but this route deserves it-- a beautiful splitter in a perfect corner, it often appears in guidebooks and climbing magazine photos.  Hands, then wide hands with a little arm jam for the last move to the anchors.  It is located up and left from the parking pull-off.  Look for a large right facing corner, leading to a sandy shelf with anchors about 50 feet up.  The next corner to the left is "Dawn of an Age", a 5.10 3-5 inch corner crack which is easily toproped from the anchors.

Description

Protection

Routes in Blue Gramma Cliff