A very fun slab route. The route follows a small seam that rarely produces good holds. However, there is plenty of adaquate holds and good feet. Seems harder than many of the 10a's at the ranch.

The Seamstress

Message to a Hairy Man Back

[Redacted]

Stove Top

Devil's Candy

Treebeard

T-Slab

Solid

Shelob's Lair

Hackberry Crack

In The Crack Or On Your Back

Knob Creek

Adhesive Love

Balrog

Fighting Uruk-Hai

Rightovers

Gelgamek Vagina

Entwash

Leftovers

Tales of Ribaldry

This undulating chimney starts wide and quickly narrows before you gain a rest ledge. Another wider section is followed by the cruxy wide offwidth/squeeze chimney.

Tricky start leads to good climbing. Crux is pulling over the bulge midway up the route. Start can be bypassed by starting off to the left.

Great climbing from bottom to top. Interesting pocketed climbing leads to a large flake and then some good slab climbing to finish. This climb is also very well protected.

Some great slab climbing. The first forty feet hold the most difficult climbing. Great clipping stances and fun moves between each bolt. There is still some lichen on the rock.

Start on small crimps and pockets on a vertical face. The top consists of some of the great slab climbing that the area is known for.

Hand and fist crack, leaning slightly left.

A sustained bolted climb with good holds. Up the arete then step left at the obvious small roof and finish up the left hand face.

Excellent Hands splitter.  Pass a flared section about 15' up, then jam through the crux bulge.  Great jams from bottom to top.  Only complaint is that it's not longer.

I can't believe this route isn't on Mountain Project! This is a major classic! 

  The route begins in an easy dihedral with lots of stemming options. After about 20 feet the walls smooth out to form a perfectly blank corner split by a 4-5 inch crack. No faking it. Off width technique is mandatory. Near the top, the crack widens up and you can wiggle inside a pod and cop a rest before continuing to the chains.

Tiny knobs and slopers abound on this steep slab.  Stay right between the last bolt and the anchors on a blunt arete.

The early crux leads to a technical slab.

Start up a black streak pulling a mantle then continuing up enjoyable climbing similar to the routes on the Walls of Moria proper. You will probably find some lichen at the top.

Crux is between bolt 3-4...on arete. Just commit. 

Flared chimney diminishing at small roof.  Move left and face climb to anchors.

The best part is right off the ground, a finger crack in a dihedral, with full on laybacking and smearing for 10 feet.  A couple stemming moves to a ledge.  Then, the crack gets wider and easier to the bolts.

5.8 route, starts on ledge, into a 15' crack system...then big chickenheads to the top there are mussy hook anchors up top. Its only 5.8 if you stay in crack...if you climb the jugs to the left...it is 5.5 but less gear.

Wide crack. Few fist jams but more stemming and face climmbing to left or right of the crack...or hold inside of the crack. Roof 20' up the the crux. Route has much lichen on it. Can climb to the very op and use trees for anchor or travere left 10' to G&W anchors. 

The collection of routes just past Confederat Cracks, which hosts lower angle climbs with sloping holds and water runnels formed between routes.  

  Stays wet when it recieves rain.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Walls Of Moria