Head up the slab past a bolt and then reaching out left to clip bolts on the face. Eventually traverse out onto the face and climb small but positive pockets up the wall. Some holds lead up and right near the top of the route and they get better just before the anchors.

There are some loose looking holds on this route so beware.

Also there are 2 places to traverse onto the face, choose wisely.

Gluttony

Fallen Angel

Special Boy

Dracula '04

Hellraiser

Skunk Love

Looking Through the Devil's Window

The Gimp

Lucifer

The Castle Has Fallen

Fat Man's Misery

Believer

Paradise Lost

Jumbo Shrimp

Obvious and beautiful thin, right leaning crack.

Climb through a sporty and engaging first half to a small ledge rest. The first half can be a bit runout as it becomes difficult to place thin gear in the upper portions because you are climbing to the left of the crack. I was scared on the onsight!

Rest on the ledge and enjoy the pumpy and super fun corner to the chains.

Not a great warm up, but a fun route anyway.

A hard start on small pockets, stick clip recommended. Then better pockets up to the breack at about mid hieght. Jugs up the steeper headwall above.

Very technical climbing to start up the offset seam, you really have to trust some bad feet and get the hand sequence right. The holds get much better at the mini roof and 3rd bolt. Move left to a flake feature then up and back right to a rest jug. Clip your last bolt and make a couple of long moves up to an obvious pocket, your foot is now at the bottom of your last draw. Start the upper crux by punching out to the arete and slapping your way up and around to jugs above and left of the anchors. If you blow it you can take a huge ride.

How often do you get to take a 50 foot fall on a 60 foot route?

Start by steming across to the wall onto some cool pockets. Head up with long reaches between good holds. The crux comes at the third bolt and is obvious from the ground, getting to and using the terrible slopers. Above the holds get big again and some are pretty sharp so move with care.

This is a great slab line with unique movement and a few committing moves to keep you on your toes.  Start on a flake and work up following a wide arching handcrack. Workout the sequence to surmount the crux from bolt two to three before your toes and calves start screaming.  The climbing eases up a bit after the fourth bolt, but is still quite enjoyable. Don't forget to enjoy the view from anchors and top it out for added fun.

Layback the wide crack up the ramp, past a short vertical section in the middle. Anchors sit just above the tunnel to the other side of Purgatory.

Make a few quick pulls to get off the ground and into more interesting balance moves.  Then continue up the steepening face on decent holds.  Fight the pump (if this isn't just a warm-up for the more difficult popular lines here).

Improbable face up the center of the Purgatory wall

Start up the same corner system as Lucifer and Paradise Lost, but continue up the flake until it cuts right. Undercling through the roof then follow the flake all the way to the break through a shutdown boulder problem.

Climb the large ramp on one of the biggest boulders of choss you'll encounter at the Red, using the left offwidth and whatever hasn't already eroded off on the right. Once reaching the top of the ramp, gingerly hug the soft, flaky pile of sandstone and be sure not to rain down any choss blocks onto your belayer or other nearby souls wondering why you decided to climb this. Upon summitting this unstable conglomerate, build an anchor in any somewhat-decent rock you can find. If you convinced somebody else to follow you (good luck), belay them up here. Now for the money pitch. Locate the light at the end of the tunnel (or cave in this instance), and begin crawling through the narrow opening in the cliff. Squirm your way through dirt, spiderwebs, animal feces, and more choss until you reach the opening of the aptly named Devil's Window. Peer to your left and take a sigh of relief as you lay eyes on two anchors bolted firmly into some legitimate Corbin sandstone. Go in direct, and rebirth yourself out of the opening, releasing as few pieces of broken rock down the slab below as possible. Rest easy, put your partner on belay, and laugh at them as they struggle their way through. After rappelling back to solid ground, think to yourself about all the world-class climbs the Red has to offer, then recall what you just experienced. Pretty amazing, huh?

Start with small but positive holds and bad feet. As you get higher the holds become a little better and you have some feet. Just before the break you get some bigger flat holds. Good jugs in the break allow you to rest before turning the roof and heading up the steeper wall on jugs to the anchors.

Move up into a right facing flake that is the route The Castle Has Fallen. At the second bolt start moving right across the face with long moves on good hold or shorter moves using some of the smaller holds. Eventually get to a rest on a small ledge. Head back onto the arete that you just turned and climb the 25 foot section on side pulls, pockets and crimps that thin as you get higher. A couple of very long moves right at the top after the angle relents takes you to the anchors.

Starts with a bit of slab climbing that quickly gets steeper; then pull a small overhang on holds appropriate for the grade.  Slightly harder than that route to it's left.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Purgatory