A clean, aesthetic, mostly fingers crack in a secluded setting. Start with hands that quickly turn to locker fingers for 30 ft. Finish with a techy yet powerful boulder problem before the chains.

Full Price Fangers

Concepcion

Kiss of the Spider Women

Bee Line

Alba's Half Price Hand Jams

Brush Painted Datsun

Aerobicide

Christine's Way Buff Saab

Android Waffle Hot Line

Finger Bandit

A Pirate's Life for Me

Black Widow

What Momma Don't Know

In the Bushes

Another Fine Day

Thicker than Water

Kentucky Brown Water

Pocket  Rocket

Thicker Than Water (pitch 1)

Working Class Hero

Begin below a L facing corner with a tips crack. Use the finger crack to gain a ledge halfway and finish on a fun hand crack in nice rock. The bottom is SANDY. A more enjoyable & far less sandy start may exist a few feet left following another tips crack in a much smaller L facing corner. It will likely increase the grade.

Bring your partner up  to the top of the pillar and descend using the anchor on Alba's Half Price Hand Jams.

Formerly the two pitch aid climb "Acromaniac," Concepcion links the two pitches into what is one of the raddest pitches in the desert.

A deceptively long right facing corner and roof guarded by some looseness.  The meat of the route is an inventive undercling and stem out a roof after surviving a pumpy off-fingers layback section on slippery rock.  Like layaway plan at the creek, this one makes you go for it...

Start at the right side of a loose pillar to gain access to a splitter thin hand crack which widens to a hand crack, past a few wedged blocks, eventually transitioning left to a splitter different hand crack for about 50 feet. Finish with a few moves of fist/offwidth over a small roof/bulge to gain anchors to the left of the crack.

The route starts in a flared number one crack, which fires to a splitter number two crack, ending about halfway up.  Pull through the wider section to a finger crack on the right and thin hands on the left.  This varied climb has fun movement on great rock and would get more stars if it were a bit longer.

This curving flake, just to the right of Christine's, features excellent jamming on quality rock. One of the best in Day Canyon.

This route is about a half mile up canyon from Bootleg Tower, on the same side.  Look for the twin splitter cracks of the first pitch.

On the second pitch you have a few options.  One is to go left straight off the belay into the wide flake/crack.  Another is to head straight up and into some fingerlocks.  Yet another option is to do what my partner did and head up the fingercrack until it gets real thin and then traverse left into the wide crack.  There is some bonafide hand stacking to be reckoned with in the left crack but the right option looks just as hard, but maybe slighty better quality.  I didn't check out the upper part of the right variation but I tried the move that my partner avoided by going left into the wideness.  It's a long reach to a fingerlock from a pod lieback.  This route should lose some of it's sandyness with more ascents.

Route is about a mile up the canyon. It will face you as you walk twards it. Find Bootleg tower (can't miss it)and the route is 100 yards to the right. If looking at it from the approch.

Located just left of Christine's.  Obvious splitter in a right facing dihedral.  Lots of meat and potatos jamming (ie. big hands and fists).  Very high quality if you like that kind of jamming.

Two crux's, one about 20 feet up on locker fingers with no feet and the very top just below the anchors with two finger tip locks and a throw to the finish

This long left facing corner would probably clean up with regular ascents, but may be a little sugary.

The crux climbing comes in the top third of the route where, if I remember correctly, the sustained corner climbing is 1 to 1.5" in size.

There is a protection bolt a third of the way up the route, and another one was added later.  Not sure where.

Sorry about the vagueness, but I wanted to post the route for documentation and to offer the info up to people looking at M.P..

Not sure of length, but bring two ropes to be sure.

Climb a cool layback feature for a couple moves to the bottom of a flake that takes a #4, then move up the flake until you can step up on a foot ledge and clip a bolt.  Traverse left under the bolt for a couple moves of 5.10 face, to a small flake. From here, move straight up on loose, easy rock to a second bolt, which protects 15 more feet of loose (5.7ish) rock getting into the crack.  Once in the corner, various crack sizes take you all the way to the anchors.  Mainly #3 hand sized, with the last 30' being overhanging and awesome!

The final 15' of face climbing are on loose rock above the last bolt, and there is potential for a bad fall into a bowl feature (the reasoning for PG13 rating). A #5 is the first thing you can place above the loose runout, and is recommended.  The sketch factor is worth the awesome crack climbing above, but watch out.  Hopefully this section will clean up. The pitch was put up ground up, with a hand drill. Established on Mothers Day 2015, hence the name.

Starts sitting on the small boulder. Starts matched on the long crimp to the right of the arête. Proceeds up and left till the top out.

After a so-so start through rock that is not that bad but not that good, climb a thin hands to wide hands crack with a bulge in the middle.

Single 60 m rappel or lower off.

This is the prominent second pitch OW you see when hiking into the canyon.

Ground up, Solo, by hand

Bring Whiskey

Special thanks

Megan Flynn

The route starts with harder moves through an overhang then easing to very fun 5.9 climbing on super cool pockets.

This is a finger/thin hands crack about 30' right of

Working Class Hero

and is obvious from that route.

It has some cruxy moves going past a slight bulge and is good finger locks much of the way. Look for small edges to the right and left. The route ends on a platform with some loose rubble (careful!).

This climb was later extended into a 2nd pitch OW

Thicker than Water

, which I haven't climbed.

After walking through the slightly jungle'esq begining of the canyon, you will come across an old jeep road on the right side of the drainage.  Follow this and you should see a slot canyon on your left after about a 10 minute walk.  As the wall comes back into the main canyon, you should see the route on a small ledge.  Go down to the drainage and up, look for the trail leading to the base of the route (small, loose, scree slope).  Park it and climb.  I know the picture is a bit hazy, but the route is as nice as the surroundings.  I only did the one route, but this canyon has a lot of climbs to keep you busy for the entire day.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Day Canyon Cragging Routes