Move up to clip the high first bolt on easy, but don't fall climbing. Some sustained climbing through the fifth clip will get you to an unfortunate, dirty break in the climb that offers you a rest and time to look at the climbing through last 2 clips. Cruise the upper headwall with 2 reachy lefty clips to the anchors.

This climb did have lowering biners but someone needed them more than the people that climb this route did.

My Guitar Wants to Kill Your Momma

Satch

Sid Vicious

Malmsteen

Guitar Hero

T-Mac

Sheehan

Climb the shallow dihedral moving left to gingerly clip the first bolt. Search for great but reachy hidden holds up and out left. Pull up through a few strenuous moves with insecure feet to a great no hands rest. Continue with some Rifle moderate moves on good holds past 2 clips to the anchors.

This climb did have lowering biners but someone needed them more than the people that climb this route did.

This may be closer to .12-

Begin the climb moving up and then right along a hand and then fingery crack to awkward moves to the first clip or straight up past the crack on good but harder moves for a better full value to clip 1.

Crimp and finesse your way up on smaller fingery holds with some tricky hard feet to a stance at clip 4.

Move slighty left and then up on a fairly good up-ward right trending rail to a few cruxy and then really reachy holds to a rest stance near clip 6.

Go pretty much straight up on good holds but the climbing may be a bit taxing after your previous run.

A final crux before the anchors awaits you.

Fun climbing and a unique crux. Thought provoking climbing gets you past the initial two bolts. A long move at mid-height defines this route, and the hand-foot match will leave you grinning. The final three bolts are reachy and balancy but not too bad coming off the no-hands rest below.

The bolts and anchors provided by the Rifle Climbers Coalition. Thank you, guys, a ton, and I hope you like the route!

Climb past several cruxy moves off the deck to a great rest. Gain the short vertical face for 2 clips and then climb right of the arete for four clips. Cruise the sustained face for a few clips to the bulge. Gain the bulge and go straight up to the anchors with some thinker moves along the way.

Vai is a great new (relatively) moderate addition, and one of the best "new" routes in the park.  The climb is marred somewhat by an unfortunately difficult boulder problem start that guards 3-star 5.10 climbing on the upper headwall.

Begin below a leaning dihedral/arete, with powerful, insecure liebacking up the leaning corner.  Work the right hand up the arete to a long reach to a jug.  Move left and mantle the ledge for a no-hands rest at the 3rd bolt.  From here the climbing is more like mid-5.10, easing as you ascend.  Float the beautiful panel with a rising rightward traverse to the arete, and then back left to another good ledge and shake.  A short easier-than-it-looks bulge leads to a juggy diagonal crack.  One more hard-ish move exits the crack, where 2 more bolts of jugs end at the chains.

I wonder which guitarist this one's named for?

Link the (now) first three bolts of

Malmstein

into

Vai

. This bypasses the crux of

Vai

. After some initial face climbing, you climb a very fun crack feature to the chains.

Start with a cool lieback to good blocky holds. Continue with some reachy climbing to an easier mid-section.

Take a possible rest near clip 4 or pull the thinker bulge with another cool lieback to great hidden in-cuts to the anchors.

I've noticed that most climbers stick clip the first bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in G3