FUN STEEP ROUTE, SHOULDER MOVE OFF SLOPER TO ANOTHER SLOPER OUT RIGHT. EASIER CLIMBING TAKES YOU TO A BIG MOVE GUARDING THE ANCHORS

Bootleggers Boy

The Wetter the Better

[Redacted]

One man show (shadow wall)

Slab Bastard

The Hole Thing

Feast of Fools

Mongo Fury

The Deep Show

Freak Magnet

Mucho a un Poquito

Quarter Height Crisis

Flo Limone

Unknown 10

Freak of the Creek

The Mole

Knee Deep

Ga'Jamit

Mo'cheeba

Flat and Sassy

Leakage

Proven Ground

Strutter

The Ear

Occams Blazer

Ayahuasca

Nuggz

Wicked Lester

Unknown 7

Tricky slab with an uneven landing should you blow the first bolt. Continue with balance moves to easier edges near the end.

Start on slopers to gain a juggy roof. Pull through a few crimps and climb a left facing corner to the anchors.

Climb some good old Deep Creek Steep to a bouldery throw and finish on an excellent patina crimp face.

Boulder problem through the shallow crack then fun moves to top where another crux protects the anchors.

Must have walked by this thing a thousand times and I've never seen it. Dope route, fun boulder down low to a no hands stance: take it, cause you're gonna need it. Find your beta for 'the hole' and then classic deep creek jug hauling awaits you. Don't punt from the chains.

Wrestle your way past three dimensional climbing at the first bolt and chase a series of long moves on good holds, then watch out for choss and sand as you climb into a no hands rest. Recover from your recent bout, and get ready for a tricky boulder problem which gives the route it's grade. Finish is airy on thin holds and slabby feet above the final bolt. This one dries out faster than the few routes to its right, so it's a good candidate for when The Ear, Deep Show, and Freak Magnet are wet. 

Another 12+ at Deep Creek?!?!  Yep. 

  This one differs a bit from the others in that the 12d is all in the first half of the route.  Start out by climbing up into a corner and gaining a flat horizontal, traversing back out above the first bolt.  Do a funky move to gain the next horizontal at the 2nd and traverse out left towards the lip of the roof.  Clip a bolt out the roof and execute the crux either using to edges under the roof making a large deadpoint to a very sloping rail or moving a bit left and doing harder but higher percentage moves.  The crux isn't over yet...make some sequential moves through a crack feature moving up and right towards an obvious ledge.  Rest, take your hands off, and then climb a 12- from here to the top.  Great route only marred by the no hands after the hard climbing.  Amazing rock.

The Deep Show might just break a few hearts. After a nice rest at the third bolt, the climbing is relentless and culminates with all-out, technical fight to the chains.

Climb typical deep creek sloping holds trending up and left for the first 3/4 of the route to where the rock changes to reddish brown and the moves get increasingly harder with the crux being from the last bolt to the chains.  Great route with great rock and none of the no hands rests that plague a large portion of the other routes on this wall.

Great moves the whole way. Sustained but positive climbing leads you up through a series of small overhangs to a crux on rounded crimps up high.

Start on face, do a long reach to get into the roof.  Once on the roof do some unique and technical climbing to lip. Once at the lip make the decision to try the bat hang for a rest or make the push for the top.

Climb the first six bolts of Leakage. Split right and plow through some crimps followed by classic deep creek style long pulls on good holds. Gear up below the final bolt and slam dunk the all points off dyno which, if you catch it, earns you a final run out to the chains. This is a direct finish to Leakage, and is honestly surprising it took so long to get the bolts in. Mad dope rock climbing. 

Crimpy start friendly trees. Rest ledge around corner at third bolt. Traverse then up to handle before longer runout to flat rock. Stand for shuts.

New route in between "Nuggz" and "Mongo's Fury" bolted by Cody Averbeck in Spring of 2021. Quest out dank roof flakes to a freakish boosh move at the lip. Mantle up, take a breather, then pump out easier climbing to anchors below the dripline. 

Awesome!  Sustained climbing that leads to a high crux, then a red point "pumped-out-of-yer-mind" crux on the still sustained climbing above. 

  Boulder past a small, low roof, rest, then continue up making long moves to descent holds.  A brief crux near the 7th(?) bolt will reward you with inflamed forearms and no rest until the anchors.

Ga'Jammit's less aesthetic neighbor, Knee Deep is nevertheless wild for the grade. Big sloping jugs give way to flat plates and edges as the pump factor multiplies.

The first route you will see at Deep Creek. After slithering up the funky crack feature, incredible steep climbing leads through an explosive crux at a beach ball sized hole. Manage the pump or be thwarted by a sneaky sequence at the chains.

Figure out the cryptic sequences to get you through the first couple of bolts, then keep it together through the less difficult remainder to get your points. You'll know you're doing the bottom wrong because it'll feel v7 instead of v4. The top actually climbs really well on good stone, and this one will probably be dry when the others are wet. 

Would get another star if it weren't for all the sand in the horizontals. Still a very fun route and worth doing. 

  Clamber up to a nice stance before the first roof. Hustle over this and continue to weave your way up through dramatic overhangs until things finally start to ease off below the last big roof. Unfortunately the bolts end here. (I'm guessing because the last big roof is often wet?) Traverse right along the ledge to bolted anchors shared with the neighboring routes.

Leakage is one amazing haul. Without any of the no hands rest that plague the other routes on the wall, Leakage requires some real recovery. The shakeouts are there but each one yields a little less, and the climbing doesn't let up until the top.

Start left of Whipping Post on the dusty ledge. *beware the poison ivy* Work up the blocky, moist, and dirty goodness through the second bolt to gain a nice jug and contemplate how to clip the third bolt. Leaving the jug and standing up into a couple pinches begins the crux.(aim right) Sort out the long moves through the next bolt or two to a porpoise head jug rest. From here move left with liebacks and underclings to a fantastic sequence that puts you at the base of the arete. Enjoy the spectacular climbing up the arete as you cruise to the chains!

Climb a seam corner to the first roof and continue out another long, flat roof on flakes to a face. Work up several face moves separated by jugs to the final bolt. Find the hidden clipping holds for the anchor or just lock-off some slopers and go for the clip. Decent climbing on this section of good rock

The bolted line just right of Freak Magnet. Pull through jugs and crimps to a standing no hands rest, then tackle the overhanging face above.

Fantastic route with an array of fun movement and even some glamorous kneebar action if that's your thing. 

  Cruise through some 5.11 terrain initially to reach the base of the roof/dihedral crack. Pump your way up the groove and make a big huck to a flat ledge. Mantel the ledge and wind back the pump clock for the finale. 

  From the ledge, grab some smaller holds in a sequential manner to gain access to the finishing jugs.

Climb deep incut jugs reminiscent of the RRG to the first bolt. Continue up with big moves between slopers and jugs to a crux on small holds at the last bolt.

A distinctive roof with flakes(crux) leads to a no hands rest on a pillar.  Steep, juggy 5.11+ to the top. 

  Most people stick clip the first two bolts

Not the most classic route on the Main Wall, but worth doing. Boulder past the first bolt, then make some big moves on good holds to a stance at the base of the steep. Bust out a boulder-y lip turn and follow improving holds to the chains.* Worth noting that although the chains are bolted in the drip line, the anchor-clipping holds stay dry, making this one viable in the seepy season.

Begin on the right side of the gully. Meander up the featured slab to cold shut anchors.

Main Wall hosts the highest concentration of classic routes at Deep Creek, most of them in the 5.12 range. Unfortunately, many of these routes seep at the top, especially during Winter and Spring seasons. However, you can count on the section of cliff from Gunlinger (13-) to Leakage (12a) to almost always be dry. Nuggs and Mondo's Fury are usually dry too, however I don't have personal experience with those routes, so I'm not quite as positive. Most routes here are thuggy, steep, and powerful, with mostly good holds on perfect sandstone.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall