5.7 crack on the approach to Hanging Garden area. Pretty fun little crack. Walk off the back

5.7 Crack

Out Cold

Moon as My Witness

Choice Choss

Dual Power

Narrow Gate

The Stig

The Ruins of Babylon

Pillow Talk

The Scabbard

Trapped Under Ice

Nebuchadnezzer

Cheap Thrills

NightCrawler

Shortest Straw

The Crimson Chin

5.8 Flake

Helen of Troy

Hess

The River Tigris

I for an Eye

Final Round

Pangolin

Ride the Wave

Golden Rule

Polyglot

H.G. Crack

King Nothing

Van Gogh

Thin and sharp flake on the approach to the hanging garden area.

Low start with left hand side pull and right hand in the horizontal seem, knobs for feet. Rough in texture but fun movement.

Jump start to lowest scoop/pocket, work up and right through a series of pockets to some balance moves.

An extension to this problem is done by starting on the upper left shallow dish (Project 10 start) and then linking into Moon as My Witness.

A direct finish would exist but due to a tree branch that is holding up an oak tree I chose to exit right instead.

Stand Start at large void and climb up and left

High start on curved rail,  Match on the rail and using smear feet to gain a crimp, bring up a high foot and use a little balance and technique to work up the face.

Stand Start at the arête and climb straight up, some committing moves higher up will get you to the top.

Very cool overhang arete feature, but TERRIBLE rock quality. Cool powerful undercling moves lead to a techy move or two to top out on the overhanging feature.

Stand on horn feature and climb up and left

Cool arete that is harder than it looks. Good edge on the arete make this more on a crimp climb than a true arete, but bad feet force you to use great body position and technique.

Stand Start (left of large piece of rock that has fallen out) Powerful under cling moves and bad smearing feet lead you to a reasonable hold on the right side of the crack and a committing move to a jug further up the left side of the crack.

A tough jump start leads to some tough slaps and feet moves to navigate the bulge.

Stand Start at a jug, make a mantle move to small holds. A couple tricky moves lead you to better holds.

Descent - The downclimb is on the back of the boulder, just to the climber's left of Pangolin. Reverse-mantel down to the ledge or directly onto the flat rock below.

Alternatively, downclimb Out Cold

Sit Start,  right hand on sloping arete and left hand down low in under clean crack. Moving left through a series of powerful hand bumps and a heel hook will get you to better holds, topping out on the short but fun climb.

Sit Start at arête, climb up the short dike feature to a good hold. Make a big move up and left toward the lip, bring your feet up and begin the mantle process.

High start in scoop, make a hard mantle using a slim picking of feet and maybe a razor sharp crystally left hand crimp.

*Also the same start but connect into Moon as My Witness for a harder dynamic and thruchy extension.

Some very tricky and technical sequences get you though this cryptic and incredibly satisfying face! Just enough holds to be doable!

Stand Start, Match sloppy rail, using a crimp to gain another larger slopping ledge. Work the feature to mantle out.

Awesome channel feature through the face makes some awesome side pulls, which thin out for the top. Awkward landing makes this a little scary. Moving slightly right helps in ultimately moving up

Stand Start at vertical seams, move up then right through a variety of holds.

Sit Start this gently overhung face with left hand on arête just below the xeno mark and right hand down low on a small crimp. Smear feet and make a Big right hand move to a horizontal edge, left hand bumps up the arête to the jug. Turn the corner to one last trickyish move on a sloper which leads to a tall 5.7 slab finish.

Stand start, left hand arête below xeno mark and right hand on horizontal edge goes at V3/4

Stand Start at jug goes at V1/2

Sit Start on right facing rail, make moves up and left toward a vertical seem/crack. With left hand in the seem/crack reach right hand for a small crimp and smear feet up onto the horizontal rail. Some balance moves get you to the top.

Follow the "wave breaking" lip. A hard move up and right from the slope leads to enjoyable easy climbing to the top.

Stand start, less than vertical face, left hand on the undercling/rail right hand on large knob. Make balance moves up and left, then once able to stand on large knob (right hand start hold) make a committing move out right to another large knob! Finish traversing right to the arête, then climb the arête to the top. Wildly Fun!

One move wonder! Good-ish left hand pinch, right hand crimp and bad feet give you just enough to launch up to a jug.

Even tough it feels solid, I bet the "tongue" will one day break... but until then, enjoy!

Tricky start leads to some easier climbing, exit left or right

there is a bee hive in the dead oak tree next to it, I haven't had a problem with them, but also noted is they go into their hive in the evening....

Stand start at arête, left hand at bottom of  curved rail and right hand on crimp- both at head height. Bump the left hand higher up the rail then make a  momentum move going right hand up the sloping arête and left hand to the xeno knob! Make a right hand bump to the lip match and mantel.

Some hard slapping gets you to better holds. Some holds look friable but feel surprisingly solid.

Description

Protection

Routes in Hanging Garden area