Start 20 feet below the first bolt and boulder up broken face with horizontal grooves. Rock is friable in places.  Clip bolt and edge up onto slab past two bolts (8+) to a stance on a wedged bolder.  Clip the bolt on the short, left face and pull up.  Run out 5.4 between bolts 2 and 3.

Tip Toe Thru The Tulips

Groovy Baby Groovy

Hook "N" Ladder

Climbing for Dummies

Chicken Head Hop

Sunshine Top Ropes

For me the crux was the 8 foot offwidth near the top.  The rock is sharp and painful on the knees.  Just right of the second bolt is 5.6 slabby.  Start as for Hook "N" Ladder (clipping the first two bolts for protection), but stay in the groove right of the bolts.  Gain a small stance on top of a wedged bolder.  Clip the bolt on the left face (last bolt for the face climb " Tip Toe Thru the Tulips") and squeeze up the offwidth.  I soloed this route to gain access to the top of the rock to set anchors for the other climbs.

Start on the rock platform south of the rock.  Up easy rock to the first bolt 20 feet up.  Slab past two bolts (5.8) to the vertical bulge.  Clip the third bolt and go up.  A right heel hook just below a right hand hold allows a reach to a pinch/layback with the right hand to gain a bucket and 4th bolt.  Run out to the top from there (5.6).

Climbing for Dummies is a crash course in old chimmney technique to slab climbing to verticle jug hauling.  Start around the corner 20 feet left of

Chicken Head Hop

.  Chimmney up 15 feet (5.6) to the grassy ledge and walk a few feet up to the base of the slab.  Start under the first bolt and slab up (8+) past 3 bolts to a balancy stance under bolt # 4.  Clip it and climb vertical up past 5 bolts.  It is a bit of a jug haul with a couple of 5.8 moves, the last one just above the last bolt 8 feet from the two bolt anchor.  This is a fun, pumpy, little bugger with three distinct types of climbing.

Midway up the east side of the ridge line starting at a right slanting crack that turns into a narrow chimney 20 feet up.  Climb the crack to the first bolt slotting a cam if you wish.  Follow the line of 5 bolts up the arete with chicken heads and knobs appearing at the right moments.  2 bolt anchor.

From the top, one can top rope several lines that vary in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.11.  The line directly under the anchors goes as 10a or so, a little harder left of this going thru the bulge.  There is a lot of lichen that will go away with some climbing. This has Monastery-type crystals and funky slanty holds.  There were two anchor bolts here with the hangers missing.  It was obviously climbed before.  I almost just put two new hangers on the old bolts, but instead I decided to drill new ones.  I'm glad I did.  When I went to hammer off the old bolt ends, they broke in about 5 swings of the ole Black Diamond hammer.  There are other missing hangers on bolts in the area, so beware if you plan to add hangers to them.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bobcat Ridge