This route is right up there, as far as sustained quality and grade, with Stimulus Package at Blue Sky. Start by climbing the bottom portion of Soul Shakeout to the rest around the sixth bolt. From here traverse slightly to the right and onto Buffalo Sloper. Pull the Buffalo crux and shoot out left to a different last bolt and anchor. A heart breaker crux guards the cold shuts. Perfect route if you like small holds and shitty feet.

Soulper

Buffalo Sloper

Lively Up Your Shelf

Get up Stand up (direct)

Yell-O Mood

Turn me Loose

Root Rock Reggae

Try Me

Eye Slot The Sheriff

Burnin' & Lootin'

Buffalo Shakeout Party

Soul Shakeout Party

Easy Skankin

One Drop

Please don't rock my bolt

Pull a casual boulder problem through the roof to get established on the head wall. Great pocket climbing leads to some thoughtful moves and a crux sequence that doesn't end as soon as you would hope. Continue with some classy flake and tips liebacking up one of the coolest features around. Dont let your guard down on this one.    Like Cronin's book says, "this is one of the best 12c's in the canyon"

Good crack and face fun. Two mantels many other suprises.

Stick second bolt. This route starts with pretty good pockets up to the second bolt. Then crank on a three finger pocket and shallow mono to get high feet and get up stand up to a crimp/ pinch that seems miles away. Latch this hold and match it up, techy. Grab a couple more crimps and stand on small feet to get to a jug incut. From here the climbing turns to jugs for two bolts. The redpoint crux is a very fun technical section of rock requiring a yank on a finger lock to a jug and the anchor.

If you love techical, hard pulling routes, with multiple beta-intensive cruxes, that will make you scream your fool head off with every excruciatingly fun move, look no further!  

  Get on this thing and be prepared to work it until your voice is hoarse and your hair is full of natty dreads, man! 

  Starts on a slab with small holds and works its way up to crimpers and overhanging terrain with crucial foot placements and sidepulls to hidden holds and an exit strategy that underclings, gastons and will make you scream and yell when gravity takes over and you are right back where you started.

Start on steep terrain with good pockets and big moves to gain the vertical face above. multiple cruxes on this one with a variety of holds. this route is quite sustained and will keep you engaged till you clip the anchor. a bit harder than soul shakeout, but just as good and not as height dependant.

Face climb leads to tricky moves gaining the slab. 

Steep big pocket pulling to the rest at the third bolt. Off the rest find a small left hand pinch crimp and grab a small undercling right hand. Strenuous clip here and figure out the rest of the boulder problem to another pumpy clip (two perma draws). Enjoy moderate climbing to the anchor shared with Turn me Loose.

(To the tune of "I Shot the Sheriff" as sung by Bob Marley...if he had a hairlip.) 

  I slot the sheriff! But I did not sloot the deputy!  

  I hit the first pockets! But I did could not grab the slide pulls! 

  I pulled on pockets! But I did not get my feet up high enough! 

  I slot the sheriff and they say falling from the crux is a capital offense!

A really great route for those who love their 12a moves down low, topped off with a very technical middle crux, which then leads to killer five ten climbing to the anchors. Your whole body will be burning after a hard fought red point.

This link up climbs the technical bottom half of Buffalo Sloper to the rest and transitions into Soul Shakeout to finish on the amazing flake climbing. Sustained climbing that will keep you on your toes. In my opinion this is the best 12a in the Canyon.

sweet climbing starting with good holds that keep getting smaller. I hope you like monos and biter crimps, I mean who doesnt.climb out right of second bolt to get set up for the crux. nice rest after crux before a little climbing to the anchor.

Ooooooh Yeaaaah! There's no holds! No Holds! Till ya feeling for the one drop, and you can only stick one finger in! 

  I know Jah is gonna let you fall, if you can't find a hold! Oh no! Oh no! Oh no! 

  They made the monos so hard! Every move ya gots to keep on fighting! They made the route so tough! Everyday, people are falling! 

  Dread! Take! Dread! Take! Dread! Take! 

  Give us the teachings of his mono-agisty, no we don't want no crimper philosophy! 

  I know Jah gonna make you fall! When ya don't know what right hold to use! They made this route so hard! Everyday, your middle-finger tendons are dying! 

  Dread! Mono! Dread! Crimper! Mono! Dread! Crimper! Layback section to crimper! Dread!

Climbs cool side pulls and pockets up blonde rock to the last bolt where a crux is waiting. Awesome boulder problem going to the anchor with side pulls and a little move to a sloper. Nice route Joel.

No sun. Killer routes. Don't be a baldhead, be a smartie, come and join our reggae party.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bob's Buttress