Full value classic.  Technical, steep, pumpy and powerful.  Climbs the technical to start through pumpy middle.  Crux comes higher on beautiful movement on decent pockets.

Ruby Shooter

"Not Hardly"

Osita

In God's Country

Big Whiskey

Big Jake Arete

The Shootist

Caballero Del Norte

Hey Mr. Vacquero

Hot Tamale Baby

Windy City

Distant Early Warning

Charro

Popo Agie Pocket Pool

Wind River Rose

Mexican Rodeo

Digital Stimulation

Jake and the Neverland Cowboys

Left side of the Hot Tamale wall.   Start in a left angling crack feature with undercling pockets.  Clip a couple of bolts to get you to a horizontal crack with a jug.  Clip bolt three and then make a hard move off a pinch and a gaston.  This is the crux and is not really that amazing.  The top is relatively easy, but you feel like you are off route the whole time.  Shares anchors and the last bolt with Big Whiskey.

Lie back the obvious flake then move over easier ground to a bulge (crux).

This great route is another pocket pulling classic in Wild Iris.  The crux is a big move off of small pad pockets to a big sinker as you pass the second bolt.  The difficulties are over once the sinker is in hand and great pockets lead to the anchors.

Monos and big reaches pull through bulge to easier terrain.

Follow a rolling bulge to a short headwall.  Traverse left to chains.

A good warm up on mostly fun pockets.  Technical climbing for the grade at the bottom, with fun pocket pulling and stepping above.  A bit short but worth the outing.

Caballero Del Norte is clearly one of the best 5.11s on The Main Wall, offering continuous climbing on excellent rock.  Despite its intimidating appearance, this is a great warmup for the harder lines, or a worthy objective in its own right.  This line is rather exposed and bakes in the sun most of the day, so get here early.

A few trivial moves lead to the low bulge.  Make a big span to slopey pockets in the horizontal break.  This move is not as hard as it looks, even for shorter folks (<5'6") who will benefit from the use of a good intermediate incut edge.  Climb up into the scoop & a good shake.  Cruxy moves lead onto the slab above.  Follow the slab to the rounded break & a great rest.  Continue up into another scoop, below a small rooflet.  Sequential pockets & edges surmount the subtle bulge, and a few more engaging moves lead to the anchor.

Next route to the right of Hot Tamale and just right of a dihedral that splits the wall.  HMV starts on an undercut belly of good stone.  The opening is a pretty stout boulder problem.  Start with the first stick clipped.  Go from a right hand undercling to an inobvious left hand mono.  Next up to a right hand 2 finger, then to a pretty good hold left and below the second draw.  Clip here, then go right to a crappy hold right of the draw, then right again to a great hold.  Get high feet and reach to good but far away pockets, passing the 3rd bolt on the way.

You get to a no hands rest at a ledge here and then launch into the second crux after clipping the next bolt.  A good right hand and a questionable left foot on a detached flake get you to a dynamic move to a large finger bucket.  You have to get your feet into this hold to clip the next bolt, so it feels a bit run out.  The end is a delicate vertical dance past the last bolt.  Super good route.

Varied movement.  Prepare to encounter thoughtful moves low.  Meander past the first couple of well spaced bolts, up the slab to the base of the business.  The steep prow above will require your attention and what is left of your power.

Windy City follows a semi crack/corner just left of Popo Agie Pocket Pool.  When the corner ends and turns to face climbing traverse right to the anchors.

One of the longer moderates on the Hot Tamale Wall. Climb up nice pockets to a slightly tricky crux around the second bolt. You can either do the crux by going left to a side pull, or up pockets to the right. The difficulty eases up after the 3rd bolt. Finish the route by climbing the slab to the first set of chains, or continue up the bulge to the top. (The bulge did not add any extra difficulty).

This one has it all, steep big movement on good holds, precise moves to smaller holds and a thinking person's vert techfest, and even a pumpy but easier bulge up high.  Get on this one for a full outing.

This is a fun line with distinct crux just as you get started (by the 2nd bolt). Above the tricky movement in the crux, you will find plenty of pleasant pocket pulling.

This is a good primer route for the Iris.  Starts with bouldery (for 5.9) pocket pulling through the first 2 bolts, followed by good pocket and edgy slab climbing to the chains

Steep bouldery climbing for the first 4 bolts.  You start with the first stick clipped and do a difficult series of moves on pockets up a good belly of stone.  Harder bouldering than the route to its right or left.  Go to the big ledge and get a no hands.  Many people stop here and lower off a quick link on the 4th bolt.  There is a desperate move on the slab/vert face above.  This is on on pretty small holds as you leave the no hands (probably around 12b), so don't think you've redpointed this one until you clip the anchors.

Fun climbing through a short bulge.  Maybe harder for shorter climbers.

Climb the bolted line to the right of Wind River Rose.  Climbs juggy pockets over bulges.  A nice, well protected moderate.  Allows easy access to the anchor of Wind River Rose for a TR - be considerate of other parties who may want to lead.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in D. Hot Tamale Wall