A Roof Rocks classic! Begin at the right end of the big roof, just on the left side of the arete. Follow sloping pockets through a steep cruxy section up the left side of the arete. Eventually end up on the arete and join up with "Battle of the Bulge" for an easy jaunt to the top of the cliff. You can also toprope this from the bolt anchor of "Roof Traverse" and stop at the roof after climbing the meat of the route.

Gets Me Horney

Resolution Solution

The Chippy Chipmunk

Kodachrome Arete

Battle of the Bulge

Flop Crack

Heath Ledger

EZ PZ Lemon Squee-Z

Sandstorm

Sandtrap Project

Kinaesthetix

Geometree

Dark Room

Upchouca

MoAbs

The First Cut is the Deepest

Roof Traverse

This difficult climb starts out with a 15 foot cruxy section on shallow, sloping pockets and small edges. Crimp and tweak your way through this to get to a horizontal crack where the climbing eases up significantly and follow positive holds to the anchor. This climb is most commonly toproped but can also be climbed on lead with some small finicky gear that takes up some helpful handholds making the climb feel every bit of 5.12a.

Sit start on a sloping ledge and bump through a slot to a right gaston. Follow crimps with good footholds up to a sharp jug. Trend left for the topout. There are many different options for beta, try the hop. Maybe bring a headlamp too since this in on the edge of a cave.

There are a couple of ledges on this route.  In between them the foot holds are smallish and the handholds are either crimpy or pockety.  All holds are very grippy with a rough texture.

Sit start under the floating arete with a left hand slot and a right hand crimp jug. Bump right to a jug, then to a full pad edge. Find loose holds on the lip and then bump up to the arete. Use a heelhook to continue up the arete on easier sloping holds and finish by standing on the lip of the boulder. You can topout to the left if you desire, but straight up is loose choss.

Start about 10 feet to the right of the arete and climb the path of least resistance up and left through the brainy, pocketed face to a position closer to the arete. Climb through a short bulge and then to the top of the cliff where the rock gets a little steeper for the last few moves. You can also begin this climb on "Gets Me Horney" for a more direct start to make it 5.10b.

Sit/ lay down start in an iron hueco in the low roof immediately right of the Desert Cave (where MoAbs and Sand Storm are located). Follow jugs and jams out of the roof crack to a cute dihedral. Follow the crack up the dihedral as it widens to a tall and easy topout. The best way back down is probably to just hike back to the entrance of the crag.

Make your way through ledges starting about 6 feet off the ground and then another 7 ft and another 5 ft using good holds flakes and cracks to the top

Easy beginner warm up route with a slight overhang at the top.

Sit start to the right on iron edges on the lip of the block. Traverse through flake jugs out into the roof. Climb through three small, sharp, incut crimps to reach a small jug. Follow more jugs to join the end of MoAbs.

Do you like 6 to 8 mm crimps on a roof traverse? This line sit starts on the iron band on the right side of the Desert Cave and follows thinning crimps (and a entrapping flake jug) along a lip to a jug. The first ascensionist can follow more jugs to the lip of the roof and drop off (since this is what the other lines do). There is potential to topout this line by adding some burly hand jams to pull a sketchy bulge, which you may or may not find more rewarding than simply dropping off at the lip.

This unusual but aesthetic climb ascends the arete of a block that appears to be floating a few feet above the ground. Sit start using a few good holds or sidepulls and a heel hook on the "floating" block. Ascend the right side of the arete using slopers and a few layback moves. Mantle onto the ledge and finish up the chimney to the top of the block.

Follow the bolt line through a ledge system and up through some obvious flake features. The crux of this route is the bottom with few low feet because of the low roof. To set up this route you need to either set up your own anchors at the top of the route before you climb it or top out and climb the route just to the left of this one to collect your gear.

Sit start with a small left crimp and a right hand blocky pinch knob. There are two decent shelves for feet. Bump up and slightly left to a flat sloped crimp and fire up to a right flake jug. The finishing hold is hard to find, but it is the clean sloper about three feet left below all the chossy rock.

Sit start on the fun sloping sand stone features and climb out towards a jug on the lower lip. Use your core and climb through the sandstone jug to some durable flake jugs and continue towards the lip. You can either drop off at the lip, or pull the hand crack for a topout (if you're into that sort of thing.)

Start on a giant pocket or the jug and deep pocket right above it and climb through a series of ledges and pockets straight to the top towards the obvious divot at the lip of the face. The start is definitely the crux. Stay to the left of the giant flakes that are on the problem to the right of this one.

Climb onto a large block then follow a flake under the roof and up to the horizontal crack. Follow the crack, traversing under the entire roof to an old two bolt anchor. Make sure to protect your second on the traverse so they can clean the route safely without taking a big swing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Roof Rocks