Face climb that ascends the low-angle shield to the right of the

South Face

route.

Dream Weaver

South Face

West Face

Southeast Chute

Sea Urchin

Long Gone Bong

Cave Route

The South Face route offers 3 pitches of fun 5.7 liebacking and face climbing in one of Santa Barbara's most wild and scenic locations overlooking Santa Barbara, the Goleta Valley, and the Channel Islands.  The route starts at the base of the prominent left-leaning lieback flake approximately 50 ft right/uphill from the huge cave at the base of the crag.

P1: This is the steepest pitch, and probably the technical crux of the route.  Follow the lieback flake until it ends, then face climb up a few more feet via face holds out left to a small belay ledge with tattered old slings and build yer own anchor. (5.7, 80 ft, pro: bigger cams to 4")

P2: Trend up and left the whole way, zig-zaging past a series of small right-facing dihedrals to a shady belay in a large cave.  You'll get some nice exposure when you move left over/around the last small dihedral.  The last 30 feet is runout, but much lower angle. (5.7, 180 ft, pro: cams to 3" plus small nuts and micro stoppers)

P3: Exit the cave on climber's right and head up/right over a bulge via the slingable manzanita to a low-angle chimney with good face holds that leads to the summit. (5.6, 80 ft, pro: small cam, then manzanita, then 4" cam)

From the summit block, scramble off the backside down then right to reach the ridgeline and the trail back to La Cumbre Peak.

Ascend the zig-zag crack system on the West Face.

Follow the main chute at the eastern edge of the main face.

sit start in the bottom of the hollowed out 5 ft. roof overhang.  Start on small undercling crimp right hand and left hand on another undercling further down and left of your feet.

Start heading right towards a diagonal crack with a multitude of holds, pockets, slopers and continue right up the large flake.

The right facing corner just left of the start of the South Face route.  Join up with South Face route at the top of P1 and finish via P2 and P3 of South Face.

Scramble up the 4th class ramp to the right of the huge cave at the base of the crag to a 2nd smaller cave directly above.  Traverse 20 feet left to a rock horn above bushes and rope up here.  The route links 2 more caves en route to the last pitch of the

South Face

route.

Per the Tucker/Steele guidebook, after roping up: "Face climb up and to the right of the horn.  Proceed directly up to a narrow ledge which is followed out to the right.  Protection here is poor.  Approximately 20 feet right of a pocket, head up above a ledge into the 3rd cave.  [belay here] From the 3rd cave, traverse left and up, around a large block.  Easy climbing leads up a ramp to the right into the fourth and last cave.  Traverse right about 20 feet. Climb up past a bulge by way of a small manzanita bush in a crack.  Above this, follow easy cracks and slabs to the summit."

Description

Protection

Routes in Cathedral Peak