Climbs steep face with a difficult crux at the second bolt. There is some debate whether this is 9+ or 10a. It's probably safe to say this is a 10a onsight.

Something From Nothing

Loss of Innocence

Twig and Berries

Left Project

El Lagarto Borracho

Down South

Interstate Love Song

Flip Ya Lid

Charcoal Burger Daydream

Clean face/arete left of corner and section of overhanging rock where the trail comes up. Good, clean, hard rock with fun, thoughtful moves staying close to the arête in the middle of the climb. This climb was established on a rainy day yet the climb stays totally dry, even in a downpour.

Climb the blocky face on great holds staying on the arête or just right of the arête.

Left of

Interstate Love Song

is this projected climb which will probably be abandoned due to hollow rock in key sections of the climb. Listed and described here to avoid confusion and as an explanation of the anchor visible on the face.

The Drunken Lizard. This climb weaves back and forth, like a drunken lizard," challenging your route-finding skills to ascend this at its easiest grade.

Begin by climbing on face features while plugging gear into a vertical crack at the start. Pass the first, and largest roof on the left. Above, negotiate your way through a few more difficult sections and a couple smaller roof features while using a mix of bolts and horizontal seams for protection.

Save a #2 Camalot for the top and be ready for a few heady sections of climbing above gear and/or bolts.

Down South is a quality line with sustained climbing and some "serious" sections." It goes with all gear but expect to do some good climbing above your gear. May be the best route on the wall and has been highly touted by those who have climbed it.

Shares the same start as

El Lagarto Borracho

before moving right and climbing the vertical crack system splitting the right edge of the face. Tricky gear and thoughtful climbing characterize the first third of the route before well-protected climbing leads to the final crux. Plug in a couple of cams in the last good horizontal before "punching" it on smaller holds and some thoughtful sequences that trend left before the anchor. This section may not be quite 5.11 but it will probably be considered R rated by most.

Expect to employ a wide variety of climbing techniques on this pitch as it stays "on you" the whole time.

In the middle of the steep face are two bolts protecting the start of this climb. You may want to stick clip the second bolt as it is hard to clip. The crux, a long reach, comes at the second bolt. Finish on easier terrain above, using horizontal seams for gear. Harder for short people.

Begin in the corner by stemming and climb the face above. A good warm-up with good rock.

This is the most classic of the climbs in this area and has been described as a "must-do" route that is worth the trip alone, along with

El Lagarto Borracho

.

Climb good face holds with a mix of bolts and cams in horizontal seams, passing through one roof and finishing on beautiful white and red marbled quartzite. The crux is getting over and past the roof halfway up. The crux may differ for individuals depending on height.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Quartzite Wasteland