This is a fun climb that has crux moves to get going and then face and slab climbing up higher. Climb past the ring piton (crux) to a stance, clip a bolt, move up and past a horizontal to another bolt. Clip two more bolts (trending right at the last) to a two-bolt rappel anchor.

Gluttonous Ego

All We Like Sheep

High Friends in Crawl Spaces

Reap What You Sew

Simply Complicated

[Redacted]

Here We Go Again

Raise Your Fist

Apathetic Womb

Shove yourself through a offwidth/chimney-type opening sequence, then run it out over easier rock and a mid-route bush. Move back into a slot and finish in one of two ways: straight up over some boulders to set a gear anchor, or out and right through a few moves on easy slab for the anchors of Gluttonous Ego.

Take the chimney line on the right side of the nose overhang. A single bold belay station can be backed up with gear.

Description is taken from

Rock Climbing St. Vrain Canyons

by Bernard Gillett.

Begin at the thin crack, up onto the slab, you'll see the first bolt at least 15' above.  You can protect your start with a small cam in the horizontal crack.

For the upper sections, smaller cams and medium/large nuts can be used.  You may find a place to put #1-4 C4s.

The anchor seems to be in fair condition, but it's a chain and rap hook (i.e. two bolts).  The chain is not at the same height as the hook though, and the rap hook is closed too much to get much in, except perhaps 3mm cord, which doesn't help you.  After rap, it takes a bit more than the usual effort to pull.

The rating is due to the crux at the second bolt, which is a difficult section of slab, only a few slabby moves to get past.  If you go pretty far right, you can avoid it to make this entirely a 5.8 route, but the swing on that 2nd bolt would be wicked if you fell.

It is a pretty fun run to the top from there.

Climb up cracks on easy terrain to reach the large steep block.  Jam up and over the block and continue to the anchors.

Climb up to a high first bolt (optional gear) and clip 3 more with some gear to a steep headwall.  It has a bolt and chain anchor.

Climb the licheny dihedral just left of the big nose on the right side of the cliff.  This is just right of the bolted route "

Slap My Bitch Up

".  There is a double bolt and chain anchor at top shared with "

Slap

".

This is a fun route with some mellow, wide-crack climbing. Climb easily up to a fist crack, use face features to continue up and then tackle a less-than-vertical off-width. After the off-width, climb easily up to a stance where you can clip a bolt (or place a solid piece of gear instead). Clip another bolt and trend right to the anchor.

The route name and first ascent were obtained from

"Rock Climbing St Vrain Canyons"

by Bernard Gillett.

This trad line starts by jamming through a short bulge, then moving up easy rock.  Grunt through a slot (the crux) and onto easy territory again.  Belay from a small tree.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Shrine of Vanity