Atypical Creek climbing with minimal jamming and lots of fun face climbing and stemming. Find a way to arrive at a sloper above the thin seam in the corner (crux) then squeeze up a short flare, clip a bolt out of a small roof and lieback/thug your way to the chains. Climbs a bit like basalt.

Acid Nap

Miscarriage

De-Birth

Mother

Marital Bliss

Cherry Popper

Reincarnation

The Toss

Humping Action

Coat Hanger

Immaculate Conception

Pregnant Woman Grazing

Broken Dreams

Catch yer Own Train

Sabbatical 36

Holiday Pay

Frost on The Pumpkin

Minute Man

Prenup

Baby Fat

Caesarean

Unknown Flake (Back To School)

Lichen Vacation

Sperm Bank

Dust Lung

The Womb

Decreation

Workin' Man

Genetics

Stillborn

Out of State Plates

Induced Labor

Stem Cell

Finger Fun

Bon Voyage

Double Time

The Big V

My Son is a Perv!

Unknown D.F. Route (Fiesta?)

Shotgun Wedding

Gender Reveal Party

The initial right-facing corner is the crux, with fingers/tips/stemming on somewhat dirty rock to a shelf at 25'. This lower bit used to sport a towering pillar of stacked blocks, which were trundled to reveal the current start. Eons of dirt were caked behind these blocks, and although much was cleaned off, it remains dirty. It may clean up more with wind/water, but will probably need more traffic cleaning too.

From the shelf, commit to a steep squeeze that necks down to cups as you pull out of the apex. A short stretch of fists leads to a glorious cups splitter with stemming into the crack-less corner immediately to the right. Finish with fists in a flare and a lower-angled offwidth to an anchor ledge. The whole upper section of the route offers varied, physical climbing on great varnished stone. It makes up for the lower bit in my mind, but I guess I don't mind an "entrance fee" as much as some...

By pushing the route to the logical stance at the system's end, I unintentionally created a 40m lead. I apologize for the need for two ropes, as I prefer the convenience of one-rope routes as much as anyone!

Starts in a corner then to a finger crack on the face, move through a changing corner .5-.75 camalots. Head up through good hands mostly #2 camalots up to a short squeeze chimney below the roof, pull the roof on thin hands up to the bolted anchor. Great climb, lots of variety and a little loose rock, should clean up nicely with more traffic.

Starts on the wide crux section of "Birth" and takes the somewhat sketchy wide crack to the left leading to the Decreation ledge.  Separate anchors.

Mother makes you put up a good fight! The only thing that detracts from this pitch is the fact that the rock at the crux isn't that good, over time this pitch will become harder as the holds break. Regardless, the climbing leading to the crux and just after is very high quality and stout.

Once through the awkward start embark into 12+ thin fingers laybacking and stemming. A short flare leads to the crux section. Thin and hard face climbing lead to a thank-god finger lock. Sandy edges and feet make this a bit spicy on the lead. A short hand crack leads to the final 5.12 section to the chains. The routes stays on you until the very end!

Mostly thin hands in a ramping corner with lighter colored rock on the left and dark varnish on the right. Shared anchor with Prenup.

Not the best route but not terrible. Climbs a short bit of crumbly crack to a flake. Big hands taper to fingers in short splitter above flake. Shares anchor with Humping action. Weathered plaque at base.

Striking fingers and off fingers splitter crack with a .75 camalot roof. Start in a corner (bouldery) to a stance at the base of the finger splitter. Starts out as good fingers with the occasional foot hold. Head up to the roof and pull the roof on ring locks (.75 camalots), gain a stance and foot traverse to the right, til you are able to reach right to the final finger crack to the anchors (mixture or good finger and baggy fingers (.5 camalots)

70m rope needed. Good bolted anchor.

A good route with a little of this and that. The climb starts as a left-leaning offset fingercrack for a few moves, then goes thin hands to hands. There are just a enough footholds under the left-leaning offset to keep the grade moderate and gear stances restful. The crux perhaps is an awkward move onto a shelf up top, though we cleaned this ledge to make that move more pleasant and less dangerous.

OK route that shares anchor with Cherry Popper. Not the best rock but not sketchy. 11- in the book but feels more 10+ to me. Right facing kindy junky looking flake.

Lots of hands with a layback on a little fin piece into a no hands Kneebar rest. There is big spike of rock I pulled on like 1/3 the way up and it was solid. Good warmup.

Wow! One of the best finger cracks in Indian Creek!

Pitch 1

: Short pitch, head up the face to a ledge with a single bolt belay or start up the chimney, watch for loose rock.

Pitch 2

: Splitter Finger Crack (this is what you came for!), Starts out with .3 camalots to sustained .4 and .5 camalots, save a .3 camalot for the top.

Clip the bolted anchors and check to see how much skin is left on your fingers. You can lower all the way to the ground with a 70m rope.

The route at the top of the north approach trail and left of a wide corner. Mostly big hands with fists at several small bulges. Starts as kind of a chimney.

A wonderful addition to the right side of Sabbatical Wall! The route has a plaque but is easily recognized by 2 finger cracks up high above a roof and stembox. Start with a 30 foot right facing corner with fingers and a large pod to a low anchor (route name and FA unknown). Clip the anchor (or belay here) and head up the obvious stem box on your right. Pull some bouldery moves over the roof and climb tight fingers to 2 good pods. Then get ready for sustained fingers to tips, a bouldery crack switch, and bigger fingers to the anchor! Lower back to the ground with a 70 meter rope. How this route never got climbed before, I have no idea. Do yourself a favor and get on it!

Catch yer Own Train aka NRT:

Two cracks run somewhat parallel to each other; one in a corner and the other on the face of a blunt pillar. Start by jamming your way up a left facing corner with stem rests till it tips out above a decent lock. Clip the lone bolt (remove or sling the piece below it) and find a way to meet up with the crack that slashes the face of the pillar.

When I first aided up this thing I thought the crack switch would be improbable or desperate at the very least. A few key holds appeared with minimal cleaning and fortunately with a 6’ plus reach the crack switch was fun and quite reasonable.  A bit sandy lower down as it’s still cleaning up. A fun and unique new-school Creek addition.

A good climb with a few harder moves between rests and sustained sections. The particular area of difficulty will be dependent upon height, hand-size, skill, etc... In essence, YMMV.

But what will be universal is enjoyment of the route. The long corner offers a little of everything from fingers to OW, though the sections where the crack is anything other than perfect hands to wide cups are short.

The start is thin with softer rock and some delicate stemming holds, place gear despite the rather easy climbing. (thin or a #3 friend) then get up to the main crack and run from rest to rest. There are a great deal of no-hands-rest opportunities with stems, knee locks and ledges that make this a great climb for folks entering into this level of difficulty.

Shady left facing corner with several squared off blocks for the first 15 ft. The blocks seem solid and the climbing above is mostly hands/big hands.

A great little addition, named for Donini's famous saying. The beginning features softer but still good rock with really cool embedded iron concretions. Some thin face-ish climbing leads into bullet varnish in the left facing corner. Surmount this to one or two more moves onto the sweet ledge.

The short tips/fingercrack just to the left of The Womb. Looks a lot harder than it is. Lots of feet. Starting from the top of the large shelf, pull up into an awkward flare, then a couple of good fingerlocks to gain the crux. The crux is short and involves a few hard pulls on tips locks to gain the huge handrail. Then easy moves to the anchor.

The plaque doesn't give a rating but Troutman says the first ascensionist gave it 5.12-. Feels easier than that, unless the upper handrails are off limits, in which case this route would be significantly harder. Regardless, it's a fun, short climb that protects well with small gear.

Fun featured hand crack in a flare to more exposed moves with some loose blocks. Shared anchor with Marital Bliss.

A good offwidth challenge involving getting in and out of pods.

Caesarean is a finger tips odyssey with multiple changing corners including an airy and balancy one mid route. A couple of rests help keep the pump at bay. One bolt, a few face moves, and a mantle place you at the start of the first corner. Be gentle on the first set of features left of the initial sub tips corner.

A slightly harder short route- starting off with jamming and ending in an open-book layback. The crux is probably coming out of the wide-finger layback and getting into the crack above on poor feet. Good rock, good moves, but too short to be satisfying.

Long left facing corner that is mostly hands from tight to cups. A couple wider pods here and there and some junky rock here and there.

This route starts in easy #3 flare chimney leading up to a detached looking handcrack splitter mini pillar roof. This leads you to a Mega Left facing OW corner. This corner goes from tight #5s to wide #5s over 60 feet of so. Dont get your knee stuck!

Starts on a bench to the right of minute man. Starts in a slot, chimney moves to a right leaning thin hands/ring locking corner.

The route goes from a 24" crack down to 1/4" at the top.  All sizes covered from squeeze to stacks down to tight fingers up high.  The fingers is the crux, although exiting the squeeze is also hard.

A short splitter finger crack in an open facing corner. With a couple pods, plenty of feet and laybacking to stances. This was a fun romp before the sun went down.

Starts with a traverse in at a horizontal to a knee bar section, protected by a bolt and then a super thin splitter with face features to the anchor.  Run out at top for the last 15 feet or so.

A good 2 pitch route, with pitch 2 being the money.

p1.  A choss mantel leads to steep hands to squeeze in a corner that leads to a face climbing crux (.12a R) protected by 3 pins.   While the first pin is bomber, the next 2 are shakey and im planning on switching in a bolt to take away the R rating.  The pitch ends on a nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.  80 ft

p2.   Mostly fingers in a tight corner on very good rock.  More creek style than the first and a classic pitch. (.11c) 85 ft.

2 single rope raps.

Quality two pitch climb on the far right side of Sabbatical. Both pitches could be linked with plenty of runners into one mega 200 + foot pitch.

1st pitch: mostly baggy 2s in a left facing corner with one bolt to move past some choss at the start. Fun face moves out and over a flake bring you to the anchors. 10+

2nd pitch: a beautiful headwall splitter of .5 and .75s with pods to keep things from ever getting too desperate. From the belay head up into a short right facing corner of hands to a small roof. Try not to yard too forcefully on the jug (hollow plate) right above the small roof. After the roof the splitter takes you to the chains. Pumpy. 11+

Starts off of the ledge atop a large boulder just left of Baby Gator. A blocky start gives way to a sustained, clean OW/squeeze in the left-facing corner that stays a bad size for a ways. There is a splitter thin-hands to finger crack on the left wall that helps with the lower 1/2, gets cruxy up high where it pinches down to off-fist for a couple of moves, before more squeeze finishes it up. Physical!

Start up the left facing corner (mostly fingers and off finger) to a good rest. Clip a bolt and do a footless face traverse left (about V3/4) to the nice splitter. From here it’s a green alien to blue alien tips/lie back crack.

Awesome route first equipped by Patrick Kingsbury.

Right-facing corner running up a prominent left-angling slope feature. Funky rock at the start (2 drilled pins) gives way to a nice, low-angle finger crack.

Guidebook mentions a 5.11 second pitch. The rock looks ???, but I didn't do it, so I don't know.

Clean moves on clean rock. Thin hands to thinner than that. Small people will find both the jamming and slot contortions easier than big people. Start in a left-facing corner with 1.5" gear (easier than it looks) and climb up into a flaring slot with 'forever' of thin hands jams to a wide spot. Pull the wide section to a good rest and finish up top in a 1.5" crack that is harder than it looks. Finish and clip before you run out of gas!

Great route, very clean. Traverse slightly up and left to a fist splitter and follow it as it moves right into a left facing corner. Follow corner. Pretty consistently big hands and fists. I little bit of easy wide climbing near the anchor.

A tight flared "V" slot with tips and fingers in the back.  Awkward is the best word to describe this rig.

The mental crux is right off the ground, climbing through the sugary rock to get to the good stuff.  Climb through the bad stuff for 20ft, then take a breath at the ledge.  There will be a drilled angle with red webbing at your chest.

Follow the crack as you jam, stem, and layback to the bulge up top, and scrape through the low angle OW up top to the chains!

A short route with a short crux. This climb ascends a few moves up to a shelf, then jams loose hands to step up onto a square flat stance near the crack, the route's crux. Distinct rest stances are key opportunities for protection before the crux and other opportunities are from pretty good stances.

An excellent beginner lead. A neophyte leader would never be far from the ground, protection, or a watchful belayer.

This is a fun and unique pitch on the right side of the Sabbatical, aka Pregnant Woman, wall.

Look for a 4' horizontal roof, about 15' off the ground, split by a handcrack.

Climb easy choss to this handcrack, and then jam out it. At the lip, make a big move off a finger lock to a sloper. Climb another dozen feet of easier crack up to an alcove/ledge.

Above the ledge, climb a beautiful finger crack in a LF dihedral, which narrows to tips just before the finishing jug.

After another ledge rest, follow the offset crack to the anchors. There's a tricky thin section near the end, if I'm remembering correctly...

Bouldery thin crack to flare on steep rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sabbatical Wall