Do not climb this route...

The guidebook description says "climb the start of Vector Trouble... to a short blocky section to a perfect hand crack... and lower from fixed gear."

First off, the "fixed gear" doesn't exist or has been booty-ed. Secondly, the "perfect hand crack" is a fine hand crack, but found on about 5.2 terrain which is guarded by a 5.7 fist crack to a nearly unprotectable blocky section that felt much harder than 5.7.

We trundled two large (toaster oven or so) blocks that were just sitting in the blocky section that pulled right out and could have seriously injured a newer leader. Protection above the ledge is sparse and a fall in the blocky section would cause someone to hit the ledge.

It's just not worth it. Climb something else.

Route Less Traveled

Game Boy

Treasures in Heaven

Boom Boom Out Go The Lights

Now I'm Nothing

Suction Lipectomy

Souders Crack

Fear and Loathing in Nada

Are the Pies Fresh?

Cruise Control

Vector Trouble

The Gift

Autumn

Trinket Man

Ralph & Bob's

Bloodline

Perforator

Stand and Deliver

Sacred Geometry

Rock Wars

Fire and Finess

Whip It Out

Long Wall Chimney

Mailbox

Hidden Treasure

Now I'm Something

Rubus Fruticosus

Big Country

Hot September

Kazi and Mito

Back Door to Paris

Gladuator

The Approach

Two Step

Next Day Air

The Snatch

NEPA This

Are The Pies Fresh? (to 1st set of anchors)

Rock Caddie

A strange route with a strange name. Despite not following a particular or natural line,  the climb is still good mileage and fun.  Climb up a bulging start where a little power is helpful, going up to an easier face and then right to an arete, then to a good ledge with a bolted anchor. A bit of a strange route.

Great (Yum) if you like OW.  Bad (Yuk) if you don't.  Climb up the OW with chicken-wings, heal-toes, arm bars and the occasional chest-jam. Body size is a factor and larger folks may not get any rest and may really not like this climb. Top out on the obvious shelf and belay your partner up.  There is a rap station above shared by Mailbox (5.8+).

Posting this as an existing route.

This route is just climbers left of Cruise Control, which is approximately at the top of the approach trail.

Treasures in Heaven starts with a low roof split by a big hands crack. Climb the hand crack to a finger crack to a chimney for a few moves. In the chimney a right facing flake appears which takes you out of the chimney and to the anchors. It's hard to see anything about the route from the ground other than the initial hand crack but it's all there! Very fun route with good rock for RRG trad.

NIN. A good boulder problem if you are a boulderer, and 3* for that, but not much of a route.  Climb up the center of the steep rock, facing the climbs Autumn and Rock Wars. The moves are thin and balancey and the crux high enough for a fall to screw up your day. There were a lot of jagged rocks below it in 1994.  More recent reports suggest that this may have been cleared/flattened.

Offwidth crack that strikes through the top of the cliff. Reach it via the first pitch of Ralph and Bobs and trend right to the start of the crack or puzzle together a path straight up to the crack through lichen, small trees, and poorly protected ledges.

Souder's Crack is the direct line below the anchors of Rock Wars. Start up as for Rock Wars, but stay left, heading straight up the flake as it gets more difficult.

This route would be very dangerous to lead, as it would be a solo for the first 50' of 5.9 climbing and would rely on very small gear for the crux up high. Probably best to TR this unless you've got it dialed.

Moderate corner climbing down low, to easy terrain leading to the hands to off width corner. Needs more traffic, and it deserves it. At one point my partner and I both were laid out sideways with our feet sticking out the corner horizontal. The wall over your head has some useful features right when you want them though, so don't be too put off by the off width up high.

A good long route with a hard crux. One can bail from anchors at 70' for a 5.11 climb, or make some excuse about something and belay there to rest and make your partner lead the tricky 5.12 moves on the "second pitch."

You need 2 ropes to get down, or a 70m rope.

Obvious crack system left on the face of Cruisemaster.  Climb the small dihedral using face holds and protecting into the crack.  Halfway up the crack thins out but traversing left 8 feet leads to a nicer crack which can be followed to the top

Near the left (west) end of Long Wall is this striking orange dihedral above a ledge. Take the leftmost of three cracks to get to the ledge and belay to reduce rope drag. Then fire up the classic dihedral, stemming on good edges and dropping bomber nuts in the finger crack.

Don't let the roof intimidate you. You get gear above your head as you edge out to the arete.

Pull the exposed lip move on good holds and hike otthe ledge. Walk off left or concoct a rappel down the route.

A great climb with a dual personality. I found the crux to be on the thin and insecure face climbing down low, but the steep rock on the second half still has a kick to it.

Climb up the tan and orange rock (perhaps the name comes from this?) in a corner formed by a very thick left-facing flake. The crux is somewhere around midway to the anchors and is hand-size dependent.

This route and it's neighbor, Rock Wars, are two of the nicest moderate Trad routes in the entire gorge.   This climb was originally rated 5.8+ in the 1980's Martin Hackworth books, but was very strenuous and physical at the grade. Most climbers now refer to this as 5.9.

Climbing from the ground to the ledge is mid 5.10 but a little run out. Once the route gets to the ledge it continues off the left edge of the ledge. It is best to not bring up your belayer as leaving the ledge is the crux and falling with them on the ledge would be very awkwards. Once re-established on the face the holds are wildly good and unique. The route climbs through a couple of dead trees and ends at a bolt. There may be leaver carabiners on the last couple bolts to lower off. climbing to the top of the cliff may be possible.

An OK climb, but less traveled at least- no lines here. The climb has some variety and also has pretty good gear opportunity, but is not a classic splitter or corner that the gorge is so well known for.

Climb the crack system to a ledge with small trees and gear (belay optional) the continue on a wide crack to the top, or go left and climb a harder crack (5.9) to finish.  The alternate finish was by J. Bronaugh & T. Freezel, '89.

Roof start to a thin crack crux then a long spicy face with enough gear in horizontals

Just right of B3 is this pumpy climb.  Wile the moves are not hard, a lot of them are a struggle and some can be brute-force.  I believe cooler weather may be better for this climb, as it likely got its name from it's  tendency to create holes- better in some crappy climbing clothes than in the climber!

Climb up a big block (5.easy) and then place pro and head up the corner. No truly wide gear is needed, but a #4 camalot is useful for sure. Continue to the roof up top and pull the crux, a powerful move, and pop up over the top.  Belay from some cord on trees back from the edge.

Not your typically Red River Gorge jug hall. This route is somewhat crimpy and balancy and requires good route deciphering skills. The crux is pretty high on the route.

Climb Mailbox to a nice ledge and belay. Continue out right past an old bolt with no hanger to an exposed arete. Climb the arete with tricky micro cams and a small nut or two, moving left to a decent rest mid-route. Fire in a tricky nut to protect the boulder problem crux and crank up the burly seam.

Rock Wars is one of the finest routes in the Red and offers a little of everything but off-width.  Start off on moderate climbing and stem, lock, and jam your way up for some moderate climbing to a tiny "roof" where the crack/flake stick out to the right and you are forced to move with it. High feet to the right and a positive finger lock/lieback (5.9) get you through the first crux.  There were once anchors here where the inital FA was completed, but these have since been removed.  A second set of anchors is now 40' above.  Continue climbing into the left-leaning handcrack (5.10a) to only (formerly top) set of anchors at 10a.

Watch your rope length when you lower off, as the top anchor is up there for a 60M rope.

Thin, balancy climbing with a couple hard moves at the start.

The starts is bouldery, pulling out of a steep undercut section of not so great rock. The crux is pulling the lip and getting established on the upper face. Kind of a pain to clean.

A good route, and particularly good for a chimney. The route is cleaner than most chimneys, employs many techniques and protects reasonably well.  Climb up it to the top of the wall.

To descend, walk left to the end of the wall and return back to the base.

A good climb with some interesting and pumpy climbing. Locate the climb Yuk, obvious due to it's wide clean crack.  Just left of there, climb a face to access a crack in a corner, which is climbed at a moderate grade until you are bumped into a lie-back.  The finger crack takes good pro, but it may be hard to place from a lie-back for the 5.8 leader.  Continue up to the top and get an anchor on trees back from the edge.

Overhanging crack with fingers, hands, and a couple jugs trending right from corner off the belay ledge above the first pitch of Rubus Fruticosis. Crux at the top. Way good!

A hard climb with some interesting gear.  While I have seen this described as a handcrack in some versions of guides, I beg to differ. It is more a series of pods and flares with some crack between, and even then not really such a size so as to be called a handcrack.

Locate the pair of climbs, Perforator and B3.  Perhaps 5 meters left of Perforator, boulder/climb some pockets up and at the bottom of a crack (5.10, PG13) and get some gear ASAP. Climb the "crack system" with interesting jams and holds (5.11-) to a ledge and then finish in a corner that is not hard in and of itself (5.9?), but given the exhaustion, will probably feel hard.

Fun little slab problem. Two hand start on a slopey shelf, reach to an thin pinch get high feet and cruise through a couple more interesting moves to the top.

Fun chimney/stemming up 40 feet to before setting a belay and staring up at the overhanging dihedral(if doing in 2 pitches).  Next take on the much easier-than-appears dihedral and then move out to the right to finish at a tree anchor.  Can be done in one pitch with good use of slings. Spot out rappel first as it can tend to leave you hanging when looking for the bolts for Trinket man & the second rap.

You can't miss the Shield of Long Wall where this route is located. As you drive along the gravel road toward the parking area keep your eyes peeled. The climb ascends the left (west) side of the vegetated buttress. Scramble up a grungy gully on the west side to a nice perch.

Second pitch starts as a boulder problem up the short face behind the large pine. No pro here. Once on the vegetated ledge, climb up a short crack to a small pine and make a committing, but solid traverse to the large ledge to the right. Traverse this ledge to anchors.

Belay or not across the wide ledge to the tree ledge where the last pitch starts.

Last pitch: Climb the beautiful exposed slab to the summit, clipping a bolt along the way and aiming for the short crack at the top.

Descent: Walk off to the west or rappel the route via bolted stations. A 60m will barely get you to the ground at the lower station.

More of a mental crux than a technical one.  The moves all of the way seemed pretty straight forward.  The top to the anchors was tough for me to reach and pull to the ledge so I hand traversed the ledge to the anchors.  My taller partner was able to reach above the ledge and pull up sooner.  This seemed like the crux move to me

Like the other routes on the ledge, this route is crimpy and balancy. Findng the holds is a bit of a challenge as the route sees little traffic and typically has no chalk.s

This climb is OK and worth doing if you are waiting to get on another line. It follows jugs and crips to a small roof where the anchors are.

This route is short but is chock full of powerful bouldery moves. Clipping some of the bolts can be tough.

This steep line begins directly across the road from the pullout. It goes at 10-, unless you're sensitive to poison ivy; then it earns a solid 5.12+. While there is a distinct crux about 1/3 of the way up, the infamous gate move (BETA ALERT: use your buddy's stick clip to brush aside the overhanging ivy; return to him/her immediately), the route stays at you through the upper section. There are at least two demanding, inobvious sequences waiting above the crux.

Not recommended in rainy conditions.

Start up a hand crack and muscle your way up this and into an awkwardly wide/thin squeeze to the top of the wall.  The crux is the exhaustion dealing with the rounded edges of this and trying to feel secure in it.  I thought that 5.7 was a sandbag grade, but it was early in my climbing career and perhaps my technique was poor.  Top out and set and anchor back from the edge a ways on trees and belay up your partner- enjoying the grunts ans squeals from below if it makes you feel any better about your ascent. (it made me feel better about mine)

Climb Mailbox to a nice ledge and belay off two bolts. Continue up the striking corner on tiny cams to a roof crux (#5 useful but not mandatory). Protecting your 2nd (1/2" cam), traverse out right to a nice finish ledge.

The route climbs up and right on pocketed rock. Broken holds force the climber to stay right of the bolts half way up. Beware of bats that may live in the pockets.

The crack is dirty and wide but necks down periodically to allow gear.

Start with a few slab moves to gain the break, then pull over a mini roof to get established on the face above. Follow good crimps and edges with a few long reaches to the chains.

Face route climbs good holds. Probably not worth the long hike but worth it if you've come over to do Gladuator

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Long Wall