Climb up the bulge to clip the first bolt. Climb over the second bulge to an overhang. This will be easier for taller people to grab the jug over the roof. After the roof is the headwall crux. Balance up on little feet and hands. Climb the slab to the anchors

Under The Radar

Jumping On The Bed

Dude Biscuit

B52 Chimney

Unicorns Fart Rainbows

Chippy

Po Damn Democats

Prancer

The Guillotine

Crack of a Thousand Echoes

Tree Log Frog

2016 American Refugee Camp

Awesome Ends With Me

Start under the overhanging rock that's on the right. Good hand jams and lots of features get you through the first bulge. The second wide bulge is the crux. Bring really wide gear or run it out to the anchors

Climb the slab on nice edges and good feet to a ledge. Undercling the bulge to get a foot smear so you can get good holds above the bulge. Traverse right, and mantel up under the crack. Two finger crack moves will get you to the anchor. It has 5 bolts.

Climb the slab to get under the bulge. The first crux is getting established over the lip of the second bulge. The second crux is getting over the headwall above to get on the slab. Climb the slab with generously spaced bolts to the anchors.

Sidepull the vertical rail to gain nice feet. Mantel up to the ledge, and continue up left of the bolts on nice edges to a short slab section. Slap the sloper to another ledge and the anchors, 6 bolts.

Climb the slab to a ledge. Balance over the bulge to another ledge. Climb the arete left of the water groove to the anchors, 8 bolts.

Climb the double cracks until it gets wider at the top but eases off in difficulty

Climb the slab on nice edges to a ledge. Undercling to get feet for the last short, balancy slab. You can clip the last bolt of

Unicorns Fart Rainbows

or run it out to the anchors. This shares anchors with

Unicorns Fart Rainbows

, 6 bolts.

Start by stemming in the left corner. Sidepulls and underclings take you to the right through the first crux. Mantel up for a rest before cranking through the final crux. A three finger crimp will get you to a powerful undercling, then layback all the way to the chains.

The first 50 feet of the route is a little dirty but will clean up with time, but there are some great jams along the way and a first crux, 5.8. Go under the giant car-size chockstone into the tunnel where you can look up at the second squeeze chimney crux, 5.8. You can get some gear in horizontal crack on either side of the chimney as you make your way up. Bring a #6 cam or a Bigbro unless you want to run it out like I did.

The first pitch is about 150 feet to the anchors. The second pitch is the crux of the route and is only about 60 feet long. A wide bottom leads to an offwidth section that I did with my left side in.

Climb the slab to a ledge with a bulge. Grab a nice crimp on top of the bulge to mantel up for a nice jug. Trend left and up the right side or directly up the water groove to the anchors, 6 bolts.

Stem and chimney up the wide slot. This is still very dirty.

Climb a nice hand crack to a ledge. Layback a finger-size crack to another ledge. Two moves up the next finger crack will get you to the anchors. This route shares anchors with

Jumping On The Bed

.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Unicorn Valley