The first pitch ascends an easy 5.2 chimney system. Trying to minimize rope drag is the crux as the most reasonable path snakes through boulders. At one point I untied from the rope, threaded it through a hole, and tied in again. My partner did the same while following. I might consider just soloing this pitch next time. Veer left at the top to avoid the steep offwidth. Belay in a comfortable area below a small roof.

Barf Bucket Traverse

heads directly right from here.

The second pitch is the business. Climb the wide crack through the roof, and continue to the top.

Horror Show

I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia

Fat Man's Demise

Peach Cobbler

Glenda's Chimney

The Forever War

Klink

Climbs of Passion Exit

Fat Man’s Demise, Straight Up Variation

Tombstone Crack

Spatial Relations

Connecticut Yankee

Black Starr Chimney

Rag-tag

Bloodletting

Climb and Punishment

Moor's Crossing

Sky Line

Pussy Whip

Maiden

Crystal Reign

Barf Bucket Traverse

If a Gyps Decks in the Woods, Do They Make a Sound? AKA The Forest Boulder AKA Eeyore's Revenge

Serpentine

Bang Crack

Finger Grinder

Labyrinth

The Fist Crack

Bang Crack Traverse

K.P.

Time Quake

Coffee Grinder

Vacillation Exit

The Temporary War aka The Short Battle

Unknown left of Maiden

Hung Like a Horse

Bad Man with a Devil's Hand

Penis Dimension

Matron

Vag of Honor

Cosmic Debris

Main Lane

Howling

Robert's Rectification

Pooh Corner

Hug Jombo

More Fun

This is a fine, three pitch tour of the South face of the main Reynold's Complex maybe a hundred yards or so right from the SW facing

Climb and Punishment

alcove. It gets three stars if you like Vedauwoo style chimneying and sparsely protected face climbing. When approaching the formation, continue up the trail in the wash until the line is obvious.

P1. The first pitch follows the obvious trough as it tunnels up into the rock. Follow this groove placing finger-sized gear in a crack on the left until reaching a shelf before a more continous section of chimneying which turns into a squeeze of narrow proportions. After the rock gives birth to you over a chockstone, climb up a slot on the left then above and right to a large belay ledge.

P2. The second pitch follows the right-facing dihedral with large pro but easy climbing until on top of a 'flange' of rock.

P3. The third pitch face climbs with no protection right and up to a water scoop with small cracks at its top - place your first pro here. Pull over this bulge to a short section of unprotected face climbing in the groove above before joining the wide crack to the right. Follow this to the top.

It is possible to combine the first two pitches with a 60 meter rope, but I would not recommend this due to heinous rope drag. It might (?) be easier to combine the 2nd and 3rd, if so inclined. Walk off to the right (east) - we found 4th class traversing too early (?) to the South. Perhaps the better walkoff is right (east) and then North. This route would likely be a 5.7 anywhere else.

I yarded off a huge "timebomb" flake that, for years, was used as a killer rest stance just before the crux. The flake was easily removed with a light pull while being lowered. I felt it move substantialy when I first stood on it. Without the flake, the route felt more sustained on toprope.... So, if you want to "feel" like you're doing a "first", get after it. Bring a drill and update the anchor while you're at it.

This is an awesome line, but it is not the best rock Vedauwoo has to offer. Hollow rock still exists just before the anchor.  Rumor has it that it is possible to continue past the anchor at 80'. Beware of swifts within....

Fat Man's Demise is a classic sandbag for some one who has no offwith experience and a cakewalk for someone who does. It was one of my first wide leads, and I sent it in epic fashion. It starts with a sort of dihedral offwith to a ledge, to a chimney, to a couple hand jams to another chimney with a crack in the back, to a neat sandy bowl shaped belay ledge.

This is a very fun widecrack highball.  Like

Sky Line

, it starts out on a seven foot shelf, but this one is severely undercut at the start.  Get stood up on the shelf and then puzzle your way up the offwidth using the crack as well as the obvious cobbles outside the crack.  The problem is essentially over when you get stood up on the big obvious cobble out left.  Really fun climbing.

Starts with a section of OW/squeeze to a little alcove. Then goes up a more full-sized chimney (stay left at the split) with a crack in the back. Tops out on a fin-like stance just at a pair of nice new rap rings (and one old rusty one).

Ascend 20 feet of inverted climbing through a steep roof, followed by overhanging arm-bars, capped by 30 feet of 5.12a blue-collar groveling. Despite the two bolts, the route still requires a hefty rack. - Pamela Shanti Pack

Begin in a left-trending handcrack around the corner to the left from

Maiden

.  Ascend the crack and traverse left along the shelf to the base of the "shark tooth" flake feature.  Climb it to its point, then head up and left along the unprotected 5.9 friction ramp.

One can avoid the first pitch by scrambling in from the left to the base of the shark tooth flake.  As of 8/29/11, the top of the flake has been slung with webbing allowing for an easy descent without climbing the 5.9R friction slab.

This is a great little route with some interesting moves.

This line climbs

Climb and Punishment

for its first 50 feet before taking the finger crack that exits on the left.  The crack involves a relatively short battle to stay balanced whilst jamming.  It seemed best to belay just past the lip before continuing up and left to reach the jumbled rocks above

Finger Grinder

, where easy scrambling down through blocks leads to the

Glenda's Chimney

rappel.

The line has quality moves, especially with the approach via

Climb and Punishment

.  Plenty of no hands rest options exist just prior to cutting into the finger crack, including the version I found that resembled sitting in a Barker Lounger.  Perhaps it was my creativity in resting before heading into the line, but I still think the line is soft for the Vedauwoo 11c grade.  [Perhaps it is] comparable to

Max Factor

but less sustained.

Instead of going left after the chimney and first offwidth, go straight through three more sections of steep and tricky offwidth to a slung boulder anchor (perhaps 10+).. This variation is also mentioned in the comments for

Fat Man’s Demise

.

Pitch one begins in an open book for the first 12 feet protected by small nuts (~5.7). The book leads to a groove--narrow chimney heading upwards and to the climber's right. Follow the chimney until its end for roughly 120 feet. It becomes progressively narrower and begins to squeeze, and it squeezes for a good distance! Sling and enjoy the chock stone deep within the chimney. Until the chock stone is encountered, big gear is helpful in the chimney (otherwise, pro is scarce). After the chockstone, the protection opportunities narrow to hand sized pieces deep inside.

When the chimney opens up, follow the vertical crack above that narrows to nice finger locks and hand jams to a triangular hole beneath an enormous roof (5.8). Step left and belay under the roof at a rappel station (requires a 60 meter rope to bail here).

Pitch 2 head left for 10 feet and cut back to the right up another narrow chimney that protects with small finger cracks initially on one side and then on the other (5.8). This chimney ends on a giant platform.

Walk off to the North and then to the East.

Prepare for a total body workout and serious cardiovascular activity!

This wide crack is a vicious test for those looking to experience a significant challenge in invert offwidths. Climb up a short slab (~5.7 R), and belay under the roof. A short section of jugs lead to a head-jam entrance to the roof where you can place a few #5s. The crux is long and committing, with both the shuffle and the pivot providing significant surprises. Falling anywhere on the crux can be very dangerous as you'll need the perfect balance of enough slack not to hit your head on the roof but not too much you hit the slab. Kicking your last cam out is not much of a concern as it is essentially a mile away by the time you pivot.

This thing is a real testpiece and quite the tick.

The route takes on a series of two distinct handcracks with a small chimney and OW in between.  The crux is entering the second handcrack.  There is an obvious beta gimme for the crux...oh, and watch for bird juju.

This has easy chimneying from start to finish.

If you choose to face the back of the chimney on the first move, a good hand jam on the left side of a round boulder offers great moves onto the lower blocks that are in the back.  These blocks can be climbed for another ten feet before you ever have to put your feet up against the chimney wall...but who wants to do that?

Go ahead and start out with what ever chimney technique you are comfortable with, and continue the whole way up.  Keep your back on the right side wall, there are plenty of opportunities for gear on the left sidewall.  It's only about thirty-five or forty feet to the chockstone on top.

Exit the chimney on the left side of the chockstone and take a moment or two to enjoy the view of the Central Rocks, Nautilus, and Holdout.

Then wipe the bat guano off your hands....

Access this climb from P1 of

Serpentine

or Hesitation, then look for the almost vertical, right-facing, hand crack dihedral. I have not yet climbed all of Hesitation, so I will let someone else add it. The crux for me was pulling above a wide section that protects well with a #5. The guidebook calls this a separate route, but you have to get to it from another climb, and I think to descend you have to climb

Vacillation Exit

, 5.9, above and walk off through the Labyrinth to the Glenda's anchors.

For those not familiar with the term, bloodletting was a technique used back in the old days to cleanse a sick person of bad blood.  The patient's forearms were cut and the blood would flow, many times for a bit too long.  If you get on this route, you will quickly realize the validity of the name.  I am not completely sure that this is an FA and would love to hear some feedback.  It is a sustained, overhanging #3 to #4 Camalot crack for the first 40', then you get to a pod and the crack arcs right and pinches down to very flared, thin hands and fingers.  I know Vedauwoo very well and I have never heard of this or seen any pictures, but it is very worthy.  I won't lie, the rock quality is good in the fist crack section, but once you hit the pod and the finger crack starts the rock becomes very grainy, sharp and crystally.  I think with a few more ascents it will clean up a lot.  One reason I believe it to be an FA is the amount of cleaning I did.  This is a good hard Vedauwoo route that should get good with some action.  Get on it and let me know what you think.

It seems like most climbing areas have a climb with this name.  This is the left most crack system in the alcove located in the Reynolds Hill formation. Though my seconds may disagree, there was nothing punishing about this climb.

The start is a bit awkward - place and keep moving, but once you get through it, the rest of the route is pure enjoyment. C and P merges toward the top with

Penis Dimension

(a nice climb to the right) and shares the same anchors.  Call it about 75 or 80 feet.

This is a nice and tall widecrack boulder problem.  It starts on a shelf about seven feet off the ground, then goes quickly from hands to fists to offwidth. There is an awkward transition from fists to offwidth, and one or two technical moves of offwidth at the top, but otherwise the crack is straightforward.  You want to be quite comfortable on low level 5.10 offwidth for this one.  A very nice highball.

This is an amazing, ground up climb. It goes from an ever diminishing seam to a straight out grovel on pebbles slab. If you make it to the 3rd bolt on sketchy pebbles and slab moves, you’re in the clear. Continue to the anchors on some more secure face moves. This is the epitome of Vedauwoo face climbing and a beautiful line.

Maiden is located down and to the left of Reynold's east face at the base of the southwest face, and right of

Pooh Corner

.  The climb ascends the rightmost of two hand cracks on a boulder at the base of the wall to a small shelf.  Walk off to the left.

This is a very unique line that’s easier than it looks. The crux is the constriction and the constant raining of crystals upon you. Be careful for the loose block at the top. Traverse to the anchors after some cruising, squeeze fun. I climbed left side in all the way up, some sidewinding, chickenwings, armbars. After 20+ ascents, I’ll rate this 2 stars, but the crystals need to be scraped off a little more.

The route is on the east face of Reynolds, traversing under the obvious roof.

You can use either of two first pitches to get there:

(1)  The first pitch of

Moors Crossing

.  This is the obvious, SE-facing trough about 40 feet right of

Penis Dimension

.  Once you get past the obvious difficulties on this pitch, go up through a tunnel and continue traversing up and right behind the big flake until you are directly below the left end of the big roof (may want to do in two pitches to avoid drag).  Move up toward roof until you find the obvious belay.  If you aren't comfortable with a "Vedauwoo 5.6", I wouldn't use this approach.  I may be a pansy, but it seemed a little weird and non-5.6 to me.  You might want a couple of bigger cams (#4 Camalots) for the top of this pitch.

(2)  About 40 right of

Moors Crossing

is an obvious 5.2 chimney.  At end of chimney, continue toward roof until you find belay.

BBT traverses straight right under the roof about 80 feet to the exit chimney.  Protection is good and it's a pretty cool position.  It isn't as slabby as it looks.  The crux is getting into the chimney, and then getting out.  There is a crack on the left wall of the chimney (about 8 feet up) that takes a small cam.  Grunt your way up and belay.  There isn't much for pro on the belay, but if you move back a little, it'll be impossible to be pulled off (although a heavy second might pull you into the crack a bit).

Walk off to the back, and then carefully around to the right.  You might wander a bit your first time.

If you are waiting in line for

Pooh Corner

, walk over to this gem for an alternative warm-up.

Set some high jams, and saddle up. Cruise up the hand crack until you get to some huge jugs and then a foot ledge, easy, 5.7+.

Serpentine is a nasty flare.  To find it navigating from

Pooh Corner

, head right past a wide obvious

Black Starr Chimney

, then immediately right is the OW flare of Serpentine. Don't mistake Serpentine for the easier wide flare with flakes in the back just to the right (Hesitation's 1st pitch).

Grunt your way up the OW flare to a ledge.

Climb up through a cool, dual crack to an amazingly sharp offwidth slot (the meat of the biz and some interesting moves), and traverse right to the anchors (10 feet right.) This line is a really fun intro to the offwidth climbing style that is the Voo, and with 100 more ascents, it will be a really nice line. Save your 6 for the top, and bring the chickenwings and armbars.

Just left of

Climb and Punishment

, start by slogging up a wide crack with jams at the back. The second half of the route is the money (crux), because there's section of rock that involves climbing a finger crack and stemming on crumbly crystals. Certainly it is not the most remarkable route on the formation; however, it is right next to

Climb and Punishment

. If you're with a big group and don't want to cool your heels by waiting around, then take a rope and head up this thing. The most peculiar part of the climb was the exit. I was unable to easily squeeze through the gap between the rocks at the top of the pitch (it would have involved a serious exhale), so I did a short funky/crumbly traverse to the left and set up the belay on boulders.

Descent: there are bolts visible down a gully and to the climber's left. One rope'll get you down.

Per

Cory N

: rap off of the rings above Glenda's Chimney. Navigate climber's left and through a small hole in the boulders to find your way there. One rope'll get you down.

This quality 2-pitch route is another fine Reynolds Hill moderate.  The first pitch ascends up a unique triangular chimney.  Overcome the well-protected crux entry moves and enjoy the odd geometry and helpfull face features all the way to the chimney terminus.  Belay on gear.  Many people rappel off here (via

Glenda's Chimney

).

Move the belay to the base of the second pitch, which ascends an obvious dihedral.  A big cam (#5 Camalot or equivalent Big Bro) can be used to make the 1st half of the pitch well-protected.  Enjoy the crux moves off a guano-infested ledge.  As for rating accuracy, p1 is fair for the grade and p2 is slightly soft for the grade.

This is a very nice slightly overhanging left leaning fist to offwidth highball.  Though a little shy of twenty feet, the crux comes at the top, transitioning into the offwidth.  This is a very classic problem.

The crux of this route is exiting the offwidth start to the hand crack traverse. Cruise through the traverse, and do some east slab moves to the top.

I approached this using Klink (10a), which is a pretty fun, but short hand crack. From a large ledge, squirm into the very tight squeeze chimney. Endure the slick, tight, and sustained chimney for about 50 feet, until it opens up to a low-angle corner with a  hand crack. As for Pro, I used a 1 # 6 BD at the start of the chimney, from there the pro is sparse (i.e., non-existant) unless you have a #4 & 5 Big Bro I suppose. For me the crux of this route was trying to balance my breathing with security. My chest is around 40", so the more secure the climbing (deeper in the chimney) the more impossible it was to breath.

At the top of the climb traverse climber's right, a good ways and find the rap anchors atop Labyrinth.

This is a right facing dihedral roof crack.  It starts out as fingers and then goes to tight hands over the lip, for an easy and tall topout.  Start on your bum with your feet at the very back of the cave and your fingers in the first good locks.

This big beauty lies just to the right of the

Climb and Punishment

alcove and splits the entire SW face of Reynolds Hill.

P1. Begin in a large, right-facing recess, and climb through some cracks and fins for about 40 feet. A bail sling here offers your last option for retreat. Fight and squirm through the bulging slot (5.9) until the angle eases. Run it out for about 50 feet of 5.8 chimney. A cool exit move through a handcrack in a headwall deposits you on a shelf to belay (140 feet). This classic pitch defines 5.9 wide climbing at the Woo!

P2. A short and easy 50 feet pitch takes you to the top.

A convoluted walk off/ downclimb takes you to the rear of the formation then contours back around to the front.

The guidebook calls this a separate climb, but to get to it, you have to climb the first pitch of Hesitation or

Serpentine

, move right, and climb

Rag-Tag

(see that entry), which will dump you at a nice cove below a huge chockstone.

Chimney around the chockstone on its right side - easier than it looks with good protection. Go through one more easy bulge for the grade using a combination of techniques. For the crux bulge, I found it protected well with a 4, 3.5, and a sloppy 6 after the move, but it was not necessary. I got into the pod via a nice face foothold on the left side, but that might be tall person beta. My crux was getting through a tight section, where I could rest on a chickenwing pretty well but really struggled to move my heel toe up because of the tightness. I would put all my effort into moving up 1/2 inch and just come right down. I finally scooted out far enough to get my foot up. Face climbers could probably just yard on the crimp, like my partner did. I am pretty sure there are no anchors, we descended through the labyrinth (same descent as Labyrinth if you climb P2), eventually finding the Glenda's anchors.

Kelman calls it 9+, and Orenczak  calls it 9. I got through it clean (barely), so I am going with 9.

Are you dying to try

The Forever War

but don't want to lead it? Well you're in luck, because there's an easy way up to the anchors!

I too wanted to prove I could climb like Pamela Shanti Pack (boy, would I find out how wrong I was). I didn't want to exhaust myself going up

Intergalactic Bong Rip

, so I peaked around the corner of

The Forever War

to find another way up to the anchors.

The climb starts with a little bit of crack climbing and transitions to a little bit of offwidth. After the offwidth/chimney section in order to gain the last ledge, you'll have to execute a dicey move -- it's the crux, it's delicate, and it's unprotected. If that makes you uncomfortable, you can try the offwidth variation, but that would make the climb considerably harder.

If you're not a 5.12 - 5.13 climber in Vedauwoo and you're going to TR

The Forever War

, prepare to be humbled. Keep the ropes separated on your rappel so that they don't twist. I recommend a single rope rappel.

BTW, this didn't look like it had been climbed before. It was chossy, and vegetation was present in the cracks. If someone had the FA though, just drop a note.

Make tricky layback moves to get established in the main crack (can be protected with a .4 c4 that your belayer should clean once your second piece is in).  Then follow the main crack with help from the left crack to an awkward mantle just below the anchors.

This is a stunning crack to the right of

Penis Dimension

.

Start in the left-facing dihedral with a horizontal crack 30 feet up. Small hand jams and good pro to the horizontal ledge which provides a no-hands rest that will quickly tire the feet. From there, perfect hand jams lead to the intimidating roof with a perfect #4 Camalot placement. Pull through this one move offwidth section to the slab above. Delicate slabbing will bring you to the anchors which are not visible until the slab is surmounted. The two bolt anchor can be used for top-roping and is equipped for rappel.

This is the best route I've done at Vedauvoo, with unbeatable protection.

This is a fun route up a previously unexplored section of the wall.  It goes up through the "Elephant's Foot" to the right of Ain't Crack.

P1. The first pitch follows rotten flared crack up to the Elephant's Foot roof and passes it on right to follow 5.8 offwidth. Create a natural belay with gear from 3 to 4 inches at the water groove (long slings good to reduce rope drag at the roof).

P2. Next pitch angles up and left on the slab to a steep arete (cool exposure) following a line of bolts, 10b - take natural gear for the belay, #3 Camalot size.

P3. The last pitch is the crux on steep crystals to the right of Ain't Crack headwall to a bolt belay.

Maybe a more direct route is possible straight up to the arete left of the offwidth for a variation on first pitch, but you would need to be equipped with bolts maybe.

This is a great line with a wild crux. It is in the same alcove as

Climb and Punishment

and just to its right, merging with

C&P

after about 60 feet.  Climb a nice, stemming handcrack.  As it widens, brace yourself and fire the intimidating and not so obvious crux.  A #3 Camalot (or larger) will protect the crux move at the 'pod.'  I'll only give you one clue, don't layback.

A short squeeze chimney - harder the farther you tunnel in.  At one point I had to go in, place gear, downclimb 4 feet and move out to get past a chest-wrenching bulge.

Start with a wide opening, enter roughly four feet begin chimney moves up, and as it narrows, traverse right to the outside. Halfway up, you'll be squeezed with a bulge keeping half your body in and the right foot and hand trying to find some type of purchase on the outside. Past the bulge, the movements are the same, but a little easier. Eventually, you'll find fist and hand jams to take you out of the chimney. Anchors await you just to the right.

There are two bolts at the top that you can access from hiking into the formation from behind, thus gaining TR potential.

This is a fun crack climb, it will take you through the sizes from hands on up. Use the crack for upward progress, but look around for your rests: opposition and friction are your friends. Towards the top, crank a handcrack through a small overhang (crux) to gain the lower angle terrain to the "top."

To descend, rock hop climber's right to find rap anchors.

Is this route on your Vedauwoo offwidth list? Well if not, add it... now!

I climbed this route sometime in the summer 15', and it hasn't left my mind since. I have been hesitant to post this route, but it's such a classic offwidth I think it needs to be documented. I am documenting this route, so other OW fanatics can find it and climb it!

I'll try my best to recall route information from memory. This is a fairly vertical, parallel sided, offwidth starting off as #4s and is ever widening as you climb up. If memory serves me right, it becomes a squeeze towards the anchors.

Do some hard face moves of the ground in a right-leaning crack system. Work way up to left leaning flying buttress, avoiding loose blocks on the way. Pull through chossy lip (crux?) and belay. There are no anchors.

This is another nasty flare, but I enjoyed it nonetheless.  It is located just above the belay for

Serpentine

but is accessible via Hesitation's 1st pitch. It involves a lot of full body effort for your elevation gains.

Climb the excellent, short but sustained 5.9 hand crack to 2-bolt anchor.  Either rap (~60') or continue up off-width slot (5.10b).

This is the middle line on the Hidden Wall of the Reynolds.  Start on the large boulder that lines the west side of the hidden corridor.  Use two cracks to begin climbing (challenging) and throw for a grainy hand jam on the left crack.  A couple of size one Camalot jams leads to a pod in which you can get a double knee bar rest or a hand jam jug combo aka a "hug jombo".  Then the excitement begins with a 0.5 cam ringlock to desperate flared 0.75 "hand jam" then throw to a decent hand jam right before this right-leaning, overhang turns into size 4 cam offwidth. Whew!  All the while, the feet are grainy (despite 3 days of cleaning) and atrocious and the crack itself is slightly crumbling around you.  This crack climb has VERY technical jamming for only being 35 feet and will make you out of breath.  It took me several lead attempts.  For people who can find this corridor, there is a sweet finger crack left to FA.

This route is called More Fun. It starts in the blocky/large chockstone chimney above

Maiden

. This route was ok. Climb up the chockstones and to the right over lichen and up and out a small crack at the top. Scramble to the top and build an anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Reynolds Hill