Truly one of my favorite climbs. This thing will take you through perfect holds, on perfect rock, and has enough spice to let the crustiest of crusties have some fun. Higher humidity could change the grade on this significantly because of the friction dependant crux holds, but the moves are so good it's still worth just trying and flying. If you make it past the steep, enjoy fun climbing during the unique run to the anchor. Skip the last bolt if you want the same experience I had... it's more fun, and it'll set you up for a thrilling victory whip!

Stick Clip Recommended

Sun After 1pm

Dry, except for drips at the anchor in an extreme down pour

Desire Line

Thunderface

Share The Lain

The Squeaky Wheel

Booty Flowers Pedals Away (Closed Project)

The Podium

Trash the Training Wheels

House of the Flying Squirrel

My Quads Are Too Big

Road Rash

Lightning Rod Arete

Cheater's Trophy Loss Lament

Dura-Ace

Eddie Merckx Gets a Perm

On Beyond Velodrome

Spoke Junkies

The Century

Old People Are Awesome

Real Girls Don't Pumptrack

The Drafter

Ultegra

Summer Solstice

Krypton

Tourist Attractions

A Cat Amongst the Pigeons

Lanterne Rouge

Lichen the Bikin

Power Shortage

Relay Race

Double Century

Dual Track

Bouldery start in to a relatively easy bottom half gives way to a unique upper half with technical moves to the top.

Vert face climbing that looks pretty tough. Someone who's climbed it should replace this description, please.

Sustained, technical, and powerful climbing on a gently overhanging face featuring several amazing precision finger slots.This climb is pitched back just enough to pump you out before the crux if you're moving slow. Battle through the crux and stay patient going to the anchor.

This line does share a few holds, the last bolt, and the anchors with Tourist Attractions, the left neighboring line, so be nice and share the lane if multiple parties are climbing here.

An attentive belay will easily keep you off the ledge. And an alternative start could be had by walking around and belaying from the ledge, if you despise sandy mantels.

Slab lovers rejoice! A cruxy start leads to fun crimpy edge climbing on a less than vertical face. Tech your way to the top, and hope your slab practice pays off for the thin finishing moves.

Stick Clip Recommended.

Sun after noon.

Does not stay dry in rain.

Red Tagged - Closed Project. Please allow time for this to be cleaned and opened. This will be updated when it's reddy fer ya.

A would be sought out classic gear line if it wasn't dripping all the time. Come back when it hasn't rained in two months. Stays wet a lot, definitely spot the top section to see if it's doable.

Follow the broken crack system, making use of jams and fragile edges along the way. Near the top, do a delicate traverse right across a dirty ledge to a tree near the edge with webbing and a quick link. Recommend placing a #2 BD in a high left pocket before traversing to keep the rope out of the mank.

Bouldery start to a ledge rest. Bring an alpine draw/60cm sling/extendable draw(3) for the second bolt if you want to reduce drag. Clip the 3rd bolt Permadraw from the roof jug, then find amazing features, with sinker jugs, iron bands, and some balancey crimp moves along the way. Respect the Flying Squirrel, if you're lucky enough to meet 'em.

This splitter crack hosts solid finger locks and shallow hand jams to enjoyable face climbing higher up. Finishes on the top of "Real Girls Don't Pumptrack" and easy to forgo the bolts if you're a purist.

Huge iron jugs leads to a technical vert/slab crux on micro crimps, followed by thought provoking climbing on varied iron features to a slanted ledge. Finish up on a fun, but short lived juggy offwidth to the anchor. Actually 75ft. And... we don't use the word "micro" lightly!

Drys out quick after a rain. Sun after 1pm.

From Redriverclimbing: Afternoon sun. Stick clip the first and brave a bit of choss down low, then enjoy thoughtful and balancey climbing to the top. Gets some late-afternoon sun.

AKA - Neil Armstrong (lol)

A challenging and thought provoking traverse bulge stands as an early crux, leading to an amazing frumpy flake, followed by giant, glorious jugs to the anchor. Use the old chain anchor as the last bolt and continue past to the lower-offs on the upper ledge. Very climable, but still a bit dirty. Will update this when I (or the FAist) clean it up fully.

Gear Beta: Alpine sling the 4th bolt, and backclean (or Alpine sling) the 5th bolt to minimize rope drag.

Shares first 2 bolts and anchor with The Drafter. Carefully swing over to use the Cleaning Perma on the neighboring route to grab the first draws back.

North Facing, shade all day.

Does not stay dry in rain.

This long route climbs iron oxide ledges up a slightly less than vertical face. A fun climb to do real quick at the end of the day! No real defined crux just continuously good climbing.

This route climbs a wide dihedral through a layback roof to large jugs leading to the anchors.

Replace this description if you've been on this.

Make use of the crack and ample face holds along the way.

Chossy start that will benefit quite a bit once some more traffic happens. Crux is around the third bolt with some thin moves and a big reach -- options abound in terms of how to cruise this section and your height will dictate how difficult it feels. Once past the crux you can have fun cranking on positive holds to the anchor.

Near sunset we encountered a plethora, like dozens if not hundreds, of ladybugs on the wall near the anchor, which added to the glee this route provides.

Cool chimney/cave start turns into an off-width that would be more fun if there were better placements and the rock didn't break.

Starts with some moves on thin holds and heads into an arete. Second and third clips are full value.

Fight through the incredible fingers and tips smeary layback flake, to find good crimps and jugs to the anchor. Use the old chain anchor as the last bolt and continue past to the lower-offs on the upper ledge. Bring your favorite "no feet" shoes, and make sure your fingers are warm, or you'll be calling me a sandbagger.

Shares first 2 bolts and anchor with Cheater's Trophy Loss Lament. Use the Cleaning Perma or risk damaging your rope on the lower off.

North Facing, full shade all day.

Does not stay dry in rain.

A fun route on good crimps up the vertical face to the left of Dura-Ace.

An interesting climb with some committing moves off the ledge and a few tough moves in the water groove to the chains.  If the top is wet, come back when it is dry.

Start on in-cut crimps and make a few big moves to reach the ledge at the second bolt.  Mantle on to the ledge, shimmy left, and stare at the 3rd bolt wishing you could clip it from the ledge.  Commit to the moves and clip, then crimp up to the flake.  Use a high step, crimp and a long right hand reach to a decent edge below the next bolt.  A horn and nice edge lead to a decent slot. Tech your way up to the final bolt with a tough clip and then work some magic in the water grove to hit the decent clipping holds above the chains.

Climb the dirty offwidth that starts to the left of the cave on the east side of the pinnacle. After you get through the crack, traverse right to a cool mantel move, then bushwhack through shrubbery to the top.

Fingery, sustained climbing, makes for a challenging onsight with several cruxes, and feels longer than it is. Thought provoking low 10.

Be safe, wear your helmet!

This route climbs interesting iron oxide features on a vertical to slightly less than vertical face.

Start in the crack to the left for the first few bolts. Move right to pass the roof on its right side and then pull huge holds to the finish.

Climb straight up the dihedral to a ledge, then up another larger crack to the top.

Crimpy, slightly overhung, consistent climbing on decent edges leads to a slabby finish. Once the edges are done crumbling with more traffic, this will likely be a highly regarded route. Originally called 10c-!o!

Sharp crimps to a high first bolt, a big move up to the second bolt, then easier climbing from there on edges.

An overhanging start continues up through rolling bulges until you reach a small roof. Pull through the short roof to clip the first anchor. Continue past the ledge for an additional 30ft extension of harder crimping to the upper anchor (12b).

Perfectly bolted, high quality line with very fun movement and holds. Made me realize I hadn't climbed a single bad route at Velo!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Velo Crag