Start up the crack/corner right of the bolts, moving onto the pillar before the small roof. Fun climbing.

Lucky Pierre

Jenga

Unknown

Loaded Gun

The Father

The Spear

Little Flower

Orientationally Confused

Rainbow Warrior

Snake Eyes

Sugar Magnolia

Potato Flake

In Vivo

Wizard's Sleeve

Swallow

Little Boots

Prominent Crack

Heat Miser

Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter

The Arrow

Almer Casile Memorial Buttress

Lightning Crack

Sweat Engine

Nash-e-mun

Stemulous

Tidy Up

Big Head Ed

Bad Ethics

More Than I Can Chew

Nikita

Number Nine

Nut 'n a Sling

The Puffer

Chicken Wings

Mike the Dog

In Vitro

Ajax

Squirt Gun

Bloody Crack

Raptor's Revenge

Boulder Holder

Burgermeister Meisterburger

Kip to a Handstand

Fat Ankles

Steep Disorder

Rectal Cranial Insertion

Dihedral to the left of Lucky Pierre. Easy moves in the dihedral lead to some weirdness on the way to the chains.

This route is listed in Boise Climbs. It is the crack to the left of Little Boots and shares chains with that route. The bottom half is easy. Crux is near the top.  The holds get thin but a leap of faith is rewarded with bomber holds.  From there pull yourself up onto the shelf and you have reached the chains.

Not sure what this is called.  There are chains at the top but this isn't listed in the 2003 version of Boise Climbs and wasn't on MP.  There are bushes growing in this crack and pigeons roosting in it.  But it is a fun route.  Holds are good.

Climber's left side of the Mid Cliffs. Climb the hand sized crack right of Tidy Up, to shared anchors.  Starts on obvious belay platform.  See picture.

This is a pretty cool route with great exposure at the crux. It goes up a scaly crack to a roof, then left at the roof. The moves to get out from under the roof are the crux. It takes great pro the whole route as long as you're careful about the flakiness in the lower crack.

The Spear is capped by an excellent finger crack crux near the top, but you have to pay your dues to get there. Start up junky rock on either side of the detached column, making sure not to kill yourself or your belayer with a loose block. I suspect this column has shifted out from the wall since the Epeldi guidebook was written. Once on top of the column, place a high piece, take a few deep breaths and punch it to the chains.

This route is just right of Fat Ankles, and can be top roped from the anchors on that route. The bottom part includes a little vertical bushwhacking! Syringa, I believe, Idaho's state flower and quite pretty when blooming.

It is not great rock on the bottom half, pretty broken up, but that also means an abundance of easy hand and foot holds. Very easy climbing, perhaps even 5.4. The top half would go to the Fat Ankles anchors, and be a little more difficult.

The crack to the right of Memorial Buttress. Fairly straightforward crack with no distinct crux. Good pro.

This is a classic route that seems to have developed a serious reputation. In my opinion, the serious stories I have heard about it are not warranted--it is a well-protected route. Certainly worth checking out!

Relatively easy climbing (5.10 or so) for the first four bolts leads to a technical traverse at the fifth bolt. Traverse left on thunderclings to a deep slot around the base of the arete. From there, a stellar boulder problem climbs the arete, finishing with a big move to a good, sloping jug just above the anchor. Don't sell yourself short by trying to clip the anchor without doing the last move--it's a great finish! (Although it is a bit of a heart breaker!)

Apparently a direct variation exists that skips the left traverse, but I haven't tried it. I have heard it ups the grade a couple letters.

Great sport route with 4 bolts to Met Rap anchors.  The real trick is getting yourself to stay left around the 3rd bolt, it's seductive to go right where it drops the grade to a 5.7.  On tr, going up the right has a lot of balancy high-stepping and helps one develop good technique.

A nice moderate trad line with good pro, this one starts on top of a column in a dihedral, then it follows a cool flake up to the anchors.

Fun, steep moves lead to a good stance after the third bolt. From here, head up and right past the fourth clip, to a steep, featured arete.

This climb goes up a dihedral, goes left at a roof, and has an interesting thin face section leading to a chain anchor.

Directly to the left of Kip to a Handstand. Straightforward face climbing for the first 3 bolts. Step across a gap to a solid stance to clip the 4th bolt. Excellent route for leaders looking to push past 5.10a.

Climb a cool dihedral with lots of holds and gear placement options.  Easy stemming leads to a crack surrounded by smooth walls where you will have to commit to jamming or liebacking (crux).  A few moves of that and then easy cruising to the chains.

This is a nice well protected trad climb that doesn't see much traffic. Unfortunately the climb starts out ledgy and vegetated, but once the real climbings begin, the quality is solid. Climb twin cracks to a hand crack and then a wide pod going out a bulge. Surmounting the bulge is the crux, and will likely lure you into a beached whale position.

It called heat miser for a reason.  In late spring/early summer it heats up pretty fast on a sunny day.

The usual Black Cliffs' "boulder problem in the sky." Enjoyable climbing overall, if somewhat short.

I'm mainly posting this route to advise people to avoid it, the climbing wasn't great, and it the anchor in the Epeldi book isn't there anymore! It starts in a chimney, climbs a finger crack and goes up and around a wide flaring roof. I used the chains to the right on Weenie Roast but it wasn't exactly ideal.

The namesake lightning crack zigzag is the top quarter/third of the climb..Not sure if the bottom is the tight dihedral, or the face just right of the dihedral, but both are fun!

Follows mostly positive crimps and edges up a column face for several bolts until the rock turns to a blonde color and becomes pocketed. The crux pulls through some of these pockets with a couple slopers.

Enjoyable climbing the whole way. A great Black Cliffs 5.10!

Good for first-timers on top rope.  Good first lead.  A few fun variations.

Climb straight up the spaced bolts without stemming onto the detached pillar to the right. I know this is contrived, but doing so would bring down the grade (and the quality of the climbing) considerably. If you play along, you will be rewarded with some extremely technical and insecure corner climbing with many blind and not so positive handholds. A clip or two may be spicier if you are short.

The rock is in good condition. It's a nice climb, for basalt. Not super memorable, but worth the trip.

Opportunities to place supplementary gear if desired. Well protected for only having three bolts. Crux comes at the top.

This is listed in Boise Climbs with a thumb down due to some loose rocks.  It seems pretty solid now.  However there is a loose flake about two thirds of the way up.  This route is just to the left of Fat Ankles.  It is possible to TR this by climbing Fat Ankles first.  Lots of good places for gear if you want to lead.

Climb easy basalt until you reach two bolts placed next to eachother (use the one on the right, the one on the left is loose) with a bulge above.

Easier than it looks, thanks to holds which are hard to see from below, but the gear is fairly small the whole way. Crux comes at a bulge 2/3 of the way up where the feet disappear for a bit.

Nothing special, just another ok 5.8 trad climb at the cliffs. There's no gear for the first 15ft or so but it is all secure easy climbing. The rest of the route takes solid gear.

Start with standard Black Cliff's stemming between columns, which leads up to a short crux, with a final thoughtful move to the chains. There is some loose rock on the sides of this climb.

Easy moves lead to fun face climbing. Crux is at the top.  Fall Shade until 10am.

Climb up a nice, right-facing corner on tips and good edges (8 or 9-ish) until beneath a roof feature. The original line, 'Wooly Footed Vixen,' (10-) veers right here. Chicken Wings is actually a variation to this and heads directly over the roof passing one bolt. The headwall above the roof sports the crux on thin, bouldery climbing. A bit of a slap in the face after the lower bit. Fun movement on mostly clean rock.

Follow thin hands crack to a roof with a bolt on the lip.

Great climb. Lower grade up until the crux where you pass over a roof. There is potential for a nasty fall if you biff the move over the bulge while leading, but there is additional protection part way up the bulge.

There is a small shelf to take a breather after making it over the roof and enjoy the view before reaching the anchor.

The crux is near the top. It's a nice climb to a sweet crux.  Fall shade until 10am.

Standard straightforward black cliffs trad climbing for the first 2/3rds with a cool bulge with great holds at the top. If 5.8 trad is your jam, check it out. Chains are located inconveniently too far to the right, but are workable.

A wide crack (BD 5-6) leading up to and through a roof.

This is the hand/fist crack just left of Heat Miser, and can share that anchor. Can be top roped, once the rope is up on Heat Miser. I'm quite petite, so it was good feet and a big chunk of arm, in the crack!

Start in the dihedral to the right of 'Nut n' a Sling', pass a small roof, and climb the hand crack until level with the anchors to your left, then traverse to them. Easy to find solid gear on this one.

Fun little climb that can be top roped after you lead Heat Miser on the right.  Good placement for gear on the lower half but gets very thin towards the top.

Easy ground leads to a boulder problem pulling over the roof (not as hard as it looks).

Some smearing and stemming around the 3rd bolt make the crux.  It's a reach for the chains if you're not tall.

Thin crack leads to short steep face protected by one bolt at crux. Finish moves on face are fun!

The crack with a small roof between 'More Than I Can Chew' and 'Memorial Buttress'. It's short but has some interesting moves and good pro.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mid Cliffs