Legend has it that the Ruckman Bros felt this was one of the best desert lines they put up.  I like all their routes but this one is special, on par with their other multi-pitch mega-classic, pistol whipped.

pitch 1: Widening right facing corner, fingers to hands with a ton of the latter. 5.11, 140 ft.

pitch 2: From the belay, traverse right to a drilled angle and the face-climbing crux of the route.  Afterwards, negotiate a long pumpy right facing corner of all sizes and belay below the squeeze chimney. 5.11+, 140 ft.

pitch 3: Squeeze through the chimney and up the steep big hands finish to the top. 5.10, 120 ft.

Gin and Tectonics

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Head Stack

The Squiggly Line

The Alien's Head

The ArcWidth

Nightwalker

Peccadillo

This is possibly the most asthetic splitter offwidth in Long Canyon.

Pitch one starts with some choss and goes into the obvious splitter offwidth ending on a small ledge. 120' with a width of 5" to 9". (Graded 5.12-?, but more like standard 5.11) 3 bolt anchor

Pitch two continues up the ever widening splitter ending on a good ledge at the obvious sqaure pod. 100' with a width of 9" to 12". (5.10) 2 bolt anchor

Finger/Handcrack that can be easily spotted as it's coated with a grey/white stream down the crack system. Gains the rim.

Park near the last campsite on the right.  Shortly after this site there is a sign, "No camping beyond this point".  Look up right for the most obvious approach where the talus breaks the lower cliffline.  Once above the lower cliffline, hike left along the faint trail at the base of the rock for approximately 100 yards, looking for the first hand sized crack with flakes that jut left nearly 3/4 up the route.  There is a plaque at the base.  This is a desert classic, or should be.  I felt like I encountered just about everything a desert crack has to offer; thin parts, steep parts, long sheer jamming, crazy flakes, and offwidthing.  These two pitches could easily be combined into one spectacular 195' pitch.  Pitch 1 5.10 hands, 45'.  Pitch 2 is wide hands for 100', followed by flakes with good pro in the crack behind them.  After the flakes is a thin bulge leading to a Crack of Fear like offwidth that will make you contemplate jumping for the anchors.  Watch for a loose block just before the flakes.  Two rope decent.

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