Locate Red Wall Chimney(5.3) and look left to locate the first crack system that goes over the roof. The gear on this route is tricky and the moves are not straight forward. Technical for the grade but fun climbing non the less. Getty ready for the pump.

Spring Break

Spring Fling

Mellow Fellow

Target Practice

Razor's Edge (or the Butter Knife)

Beer Wolf

Scramble My Feedback

Opinionated

Axis (Bold as Love)

SeamStress

Basic Training

The Arborist

Master Beta

Red Red Wine

Silence The Critics

Kitty Litter

Spring Swing

Fashion Direct

Spring Fever

Desperately Seeking Juggage

Not So Hidden Gem

Fight The Fear On Micro Gear

Tom Tom Club

[Redacted]

Red Wall Chimney

Welcome to Crowders

Fashion

Jumping Junipers

Follow the slightly angled cracks that lead to the small overhang cliff left of the bigger roof. The heads up climbing is mostly the beginning to the overhang and then eases up once you pull the roof. Follow the right angled crack systems to a big ledge. Build a natural anchor to belay your second up and then rappel off UNKNOWN(HIDDEN GEM)-tree.

Start right of Opinionated. There is small gear (00-0) at the beginning of the route making it kind of heady. Stay right of Opinionated and either top out or traverse to the Opinionated anchor.

Follow the first obvious line after the pillar for Jumping Junipers. Surprisingly good protection and a good traditional route by Crowders standards.

Start in the obvious crack next to Opinionated. Follow it until it disappears (mental crux)for a moment and then reappears. There is a nice ledge to set up a top-rope with gear on a nice horizontal crack. Or you can climb it to the top and have your partner follow.

It's a decent route to escape the crowds and warm up the limbs. Rock is a bit sharp, plenty of holds.

Start left on the pockety face following the bolts up along the arete and then back left a bit up to the rap rings.

Crux, if you want to call it that, is the last move or two below the anchor.

Begin at a series of broken, steep, right-leaning cracks. The rightmost crack widens to off-width and is capped by a slight bulge. Grunt your way through this sustained bottom section, fire over the bulge and onto easier ground. Continue up to a similar section of right-leaning cracks up high. After this final crux, exit right onto sharp, chossy rock at the top of the steep gully.

Climb the small ledges with minimal protection that lead to the orange dihedral. Great protection the rest to the way up. near the top the rock quality is not the best.

Maybe the rebolting project can move the bolted anchor for Red Red Wine up, allowing a shared anchor for these two routes. Also, the bolt needs replacing.

A balancy, slabby start soon turns to steep crimping as you yard up this amazing sport climb. Long(for Crowders) and sustained. Hope you had your Red Bull!

Same start as Master Beta but trend right following the crack and bolt to the shiny fixed pin. You can walk off or use the bolted anchor for Master Beta. The original route went right of the flake up top and walked off. This route can be top-roped from the Master Beta anchor with a directional.

Very defined seam that angles towards the Arborist's anchor (after a small traverse).

Gear is subtle near the bottom of the route but the seam widens up about halfway. Climb up and traverse to the Arborist anchor or top out near the big tree to rappel from.

Look for the big crack systems in between Rising Sun Wall and Red Wall.

From the trail climb on the the ledge leading to the cliff left arete of Red Wall (left of Seamstress).  Make your way into the crack system between the Red Wall arete and the Rising Sun Wall Cave Crack.

Follow this crack system to the top, passing two ledges.

This route hasn't seen a lot of traffic so be careful and sure footed. I did my best to clean of the most obvious choss but there is plenty of frail rock.

This route varies in climbing styles with some face climbing, chimney, crack, and lieback sections.  One hundred and fifty feet of adventure :)

Basic Training tops out on the cliff between David's Castle and Fortress Wall.

A bouldery start leads to stellar face climbing up high. Original route moves slightly right after the first bolt, then back to the left along the small ledge. Straight up from the 2nd bolt.

A low crux to some pumpy technical movement up high.  This is a fun face climb that will surely test your endurance, but is well protected.

Locate the first bolt beneath Scramble My Feedback(5.10a) dihedral. I lead it ground up with a big cam in the big undercling otherwise stick clip it. Two variations at the second bolt

1) Original Route - At the second bolt climb left onto the ledge then climb the rotten looking face to pull the reachy crux of the climb.

2) At the second bolt climb right onto the arete and climb out left back out onto the face to do the same reachy crux.

Bolted anchor.

Climb the fingery left facing flakes past three bolts and some small gear.  At third bolt angle right and up to a ledge with anchors.

Shane and I originally tried this ground up.  He hurt his knee in a car accident and someone else rap bolted our project.  He flashed the FA as his first "come back" route post surgery.

Find the small crack system leading to a small flake roof cliff left of Welcome To Crowders.

I tried to onsight this route but chunks of rock were falling out of the seam when I was trying to protect.  I set up a top rope and had several people climb it. Much of the choss rock was removed and I cleaned the protection on a headpoint mock lead.

After cleaning off the protection spots on mock lead, I redpointed this route. Fun climbing, but still a bit of questionable rock. Great warm up for getting on Welcome To Crowders.

This route is seldom climbed but it has potential to be cleaned nicely since it has a bolted anchor. Access is somewhat easy if you climb Red Wall Chimney (cliff left).

Kind of a silly variation if you ask me... so don't ask me... and then again who the heck am I and why would my opinion matter!

Same start as 8)Spring Fling. When you get to the first ledge traverse cliff left with your feet on a good horizontal ledge towards Beer Wolf. Trend upwards until you get to the roof and traverse back to towards Spring Fling. This is the crux of this route, stemming across the chimney and establishing yourself back onto Spring Fling. Great section of climbing!

*Update 01-11-2013**

The climbing on this route was actually really fun. The rock quality was NOT! The gear was mostly good (when available) but again the rock quality was not inspiring. My second said he could tell when I was nervous because I would sew it up before the next section.

The most exciting section was traverseing from underneath the choss roof to the last section of Spring Fling.

I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of climbing. Might be a great one to consider doing on Top Rope.

Be careful on lead! Choss.

Due to a hold breaking, what was once considered a (5.11d) alternate start is now been recognized by many as a solid (5.12).

Start left of the The Gimp under the first bolt. Technical face climbing on crimps and jibs lead to easier terrain after the second bolt... hope I haven't said too much.

Enjoy what many consider a classic line!

Crux is after the second bolt. Fun moves through some crimps and sidepulls. Be careful though, a fall clipping the second bolt could be a fall to the ledge.

Easy moves will deposit you at the high first bolt.  A few long moves to a stopper crux with tiny crimpers will leave you just shy of the shuts.  Fire from jug to jug to finish it up.

Locate Red Wall Chimney and look cliff left for the first crack system that bypasses several small overhangs to the left.

Great beginner trad climb due to plentiful protection options.

While attempting to onsight Kitty Litter(5.9+) I had to bail due to several chunks of rock crumbling off the wall. I reevaluated and decided to climb the line cliff left of Kitty.

This line is mellow climbing with two distinct variations allowing room for artistic freedom. While leading the protection will dictate which way you'll go but on Top Rope you can dance all over this route.

When Top Roping plug a piece near the top as a directional and you can climb this route and Kitty Litter on the same rope and anchor.

Some complained about The Gimp being too close to Tom Tom Club.

Trend slightly left near the top following the right facing crack/flake. There is a slight roof near the top on the arete that looks like it would be a challenge but wasn't part of the original route.

This route currently needs some brier removal.

6 bolts to a set of cold shuts. Crux is at the fourth bolt.  Traverse left after the crux to a set of shuts. There is a third bolt for backing up the shuts.

A fun super easy climb. There's no real crux, just a series of blocks with bomber gear placements. Surprisingly fun for a 5.3.

Power through a thin seam up to the right to the first bolt. Make some fun moves through two more bolts. Traverse right to the bolts on the the jugs.

Climb the face right of the Scramble My Feedback dihedral and left of the Master Beta bolted line.

Not the hardest climbing but the gear can be tricky. You have options for anchor placement but again the gear is tricky. Traverse clif left from the Master Beta anchor to set up a directional for 911 if you really want to climb this route.

Original Start(cliff left of the tree) - Start left on the seam that trends right to the first bolt (not the direct line).

Alternate Start - Start directly under the first bolt.

Technical face climbing until the third bolt. Easier terrain after pushing past the second bolt crux.

Right of Desperately Seeking Juggage is a small detached pillar. You think you climb either crack of the pillar (although they need briar removal) but no. Instead, find the line of most resistance and least protection... lol. Seriously, this route doesn't get climbed because it is not a very obvious line.

Also, traversing to the Desperate Anchor is a bit sketch. You're better off climbing to the top or not climbing this route at all. But don't take my word for it, see for yourself.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 06. Red Wall