Somewhere there is a fine line between scrambling up a dirty gully and technical rock climbing. This route blurs that line.Free scramble/walk up into the belly of this wide fissure. At its end do some actual climbing/chimneying although you wont have placed any gear yet. After surmounting that challenge there are some bushes slung with tat that you can clip a quickdraw to. A bit more actual climbing up and right (with ledge fall potential) leads to a small sling tree with a ring. I bet you are glad you climbed this aren't you? This experience as well falls somewhere between a bomb and mega classic. To each their own. 

Scruffmasters

Leaving Kansas

Team Scruff

Wilburbeast

Theory of Evolution

Crackskulls

Get Up, Stand Up

Necessary Scruffness

Not Nothin

Intelligent Design

Toto

Little Tree

The Addiction

The Addiction packs in super nice climbing on great rock up a beautiful, beautiful corner. After climbing this route be sure to climb the great 5.10 that shares the starting point. Ascend the fixed line to a comfortable belay at some trees. Stem up a beautiful corner to an exciting mantle and then... a slab. Above the slab climb a really fun sequence to become established in the upper part of the corner and make your way to the anchor. Absolutely awesome movement!

A fun outing on some unique for the area features. Climb an easy 3 bolt slab to access the vertical wall of huecos the crux is low and a bit of a traverse so both you and your belay should be on point. After this climbing is up huecos that get better the higher you get. Clipping the anchors also involves a fun move. This route is still a bit flaky but I'm sure will improve with traffic. 

Yeah, it's short, and it's scruffy, but it's interesting climbing involving a variety of techniques you don't see as much of in sport climbing. It's a good lesson in how to ooze up a groove. If the corner ever fully dries enough to give it a good cleaning and it sees some traffic it will be well worth climbing just for kicks. Right now it's more useful to set up a top rope on the finger crack to the right. Which is every bit as beautiful as this thing is scruffy. 

A steep, short, and beautiful face which includes a discontinuous handcrack with just the right amount of crimps in-between. Finishes with a heroic mantel onto a big ledge. Packs a punch (especially if hand jams arent in your arsenal ) for a short route. 

While not the most memorable climb, it is good practice for the budding trad climber and a nice bonus top rope for someone after leading Intelligent Design. Climb the cracked corner just left of the bolts. Gain a ledge then break out onto the face following more cracks to the anchor of Intelligent Design. 

There is much more climbing in this pint sized fissure than you would imagine. The fact that the crack runs up an arete makes it very interesting and more strenuous than expected. All I can say is that it is highly recommended if cracks are on your list of interests. It is a good lead but it can be top roped easily after leading Team Scruff, the sport route that shares it's anchor. 

This is a climb in two parts. The lower wall offers nice sequential climbing past 5 bolts to a low angle slab. It's possible to lower off here at a midway anchor and say you did Get Up, 5.10b. To do the full route, continue climbing past the midway anchor up a blunt prow (5.11+) to easier slabbin' high up on the wall. 

Hard to tell at a glance if this is a 5.5 or a 5.8. The angles and placement of holds keeps one guessing a bit. I find it to have a pleasant awkwardness to it. Jam, smear, grab and grovel up the initial corner to a dirt ledge. Then work your way up the crack boulder problem above. Finish on the right on top of the hand crack and scamper up to the tree anchor. When you are done with the climb you may run the rope as for a sport route and lower from the double steel rings. 

This route is not nothin'! Start with steepness to a stance and end with slabness. No matter your strength, you're surely to be challenged on this one, whether it's from the powerful start or the holdless finish, you'll surely find this route to be...somethin'. 

A fun and at times puzzling face climb just to the right of the cracked corner. I have seen people try to climb the corner and reach out to clip bolts, doesn't really climb well or work well like that. I hope that is by intelligent design. That was the plan anyway. The climbing is better starting below the bolt and working up the face and out right to the arete and on to the ledge above. From there break back out left to find a clipping hold down and left of the anchor. Now you can climb that corner on TR ;)

This short but splitter crack is a nice little romp if your in the area with some trad gear. I protected this route with a #3, #2, and a .75.

The tree on this route is most definitely on.Stick clip, or at least get a good spot. A bit of off balance laybacking leads to easier climbing and the tree. Move left around the tree then continue to the anchor. I believe this route starts up a strip of basalt. It's a beautiful fine grained dark gray rock, its pretty unique to the area and pretty cool. 

A nice little crag with a good variety climbing styles and grades. The Roadhouse is low on the hill, forested, and easy to get to. There is a fixed rope in the middle for use to access the routes above the slab. You will want to do most of the routes here. Drop your pack spend some time. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Roadhouse