One of several fun face climbs in Jimmywood.  A thin start on a vertical face leads to a positive ledge.  Move up and right to a nice jug, then straight up the face on balancy moves and crimpers to the anchors.

Mammy

La Pistola

You can't email your way into heaven

Earflaps

Wedgie

Diamond Cutter

Flim Flam

Arete Butler

Ruben

Supersaturated

Snake Charmer

Miss Scarlet

Story of My Life

Miss Prissy

Wet Willie

Finger Puppets

That Orange Hat

Bear Mountain Picnic

Saturated

Community Service

Hola bitch

Saved By Zeroes

38 Special

Unless you're doing the 11a variation (strictly climbing the arete and face), the name is a little misleading; Arete Butler is more of a stemming chimney climb.  An interesting and exposed climb that can be done as a sort of second pitch to Mammy; or, if you have a 70-meter rope, can be done as one long pitch from ground level. 

  Starting on Mammy or one of its neighboring routes, topout on the ledge and move up to a two-bolt belay anchor on the wall.  Climb the orange arete, stemming or chimneying to the wall on the right, with awkward moves to clip the bolts on the face.  After reaching the final bolt, move out left and finish on the overhanging face to the anchors. 

  As noted above, the 5.11a variation is to climb the arete without stemming/chimneying the opposite wall.

Bouldering, then a bucket, then some face moves. The start is really fun.

Solid double splitter crack in the first half, leading to a single crack which is mainly size #4 cams.  

  A lot of good hand jam rests, build your own achor or use the neighboring sport anchors. .   If using a sport anchors please keep a peice of pro in near the top for a directional.

Pull the short roof to gain access to face with a mix of holds that stay on you for the endurance of this short punchy route. Same start as That Orange Hat for two bolts, traverse right to third bolt then trend right to anchors.

A tough little short route, Wedgie can be eased off a bit by going slightly left of the bolt line (5.9 variation).  The route can also be done on toprope by leading Wet Willie and making an easy traverse left to the Wedgie anchors. 

  From the ledge, fairly easy climbing will get you to the first bolt.  A tricky sidepull sequence leads to thin climbing past two more bolts to the top. 

  This route has now been retrobolted by Darryl Bornhop with permission from Steve.  From the chains, it has been extended to the top finished with a beautiful sequence of overhanging, traversy moves, a full 30 meters!

Strenuous and sequency, Diamond Cutter's sharp crimpers will have your fingers begging for mercy. 

  Thin holds and balancy moves make the start on this route one of the cruxes; stick-clipping or having a spotter on hand is recommended.  Follow the crimpers and sidepulls (with the occasional nice deep horizontal) to the top.

Wander your way up along the crack to anchors on the ledge.

One of two excellent new routes in Jimmywood, this is a long and pumpy route that will hold your interest the whole way.  Like the neighboring Saturated, this is sure to become a Foster Falls classic for the grade. 

  Scramble up an easy slab to a ledge above the trail.  Continue up from the ledge through some thin and balancy steep slab moves past the first bolt, then continue up and right on more positive holds to a prominent roof.  Pull the roof and continue up the face, puzzling through a blank section, to finish on easier ground leading to the anchors.

Start 10 feet left story of my life. Negotiate the starting boulder problem and you're on your way to some great climbing. Multiple cruxes on this will keep you on your toes tomorrow moderate climbing.  

  The guidebook has this at 10c. I changed it because someone contacted me and suggested the FA called it 11b or c.  Decide for yourself.

Mellow face climbing leads to big holds going out the overhang. Things get interesting around the end of the overhang. Continue up the face above to anchors.

More fun face climbing.  Sequence and good footwork is important to get it clean.  Positive holds down low lead to crimpers further up the face.

Climb up an easy face to a ledge. Follow the large flake on the right until it ends then climb across the face on decent holds to a small roof, which is the most technical part of the route. Follow a crack up to good holds, and prepare for the pumpy redpoint crux that trends right then traverses left, throwing wide for a jug or using a small crimp intermediate for shorties.The old Dixie Cragger calls it 2 pitches, as there is a set of anchors on the ledge which allow for this option. However, the route can also just be climbed in one 85' pitch. If climbed in 1 pitch, to reduce rope drag, you can skip the lower face by soloing up to the right of the start and scrambling some stairs.

Face climbing leads to a short slab capped by a roof. Reach for jug on the lip of the roof, then head for the anchors.

Wet Willie is a little off the beaten path from the more popular Jimmywood routes like Miss Scarlet and Diamond Cutter, but it's worth seeking out for 5.9 leaders. 

  From a nice ledge, climb straight up to the first bolt, then trend slightly right and up past crimpers, the occasional incut horizontal and the pockety hold that gives the route its name.  Follow the bolts to anchors at the top.

Thin face climbing to the first bolt, pull through some ledgy bulges on the left to gain a slab.  Make a few thin slab climbing moves on crimpers and then tackle the roof to the anchors.

Reach up over the low overhang and clip the first bolt, then it's crux time! Claw your way past thin holds and long reaches to get established on the face. Clip bolt number two, and cruise to the anchors.

One of the more aesthetic and exposed routes at Foster Falls, Bear Mountain Picnic is fairly stiff for the grade.  Try to find someone with a camera to go up the hill and get a picture of you profiled against the sky as you lead the arete! 

  Starting on the ledge below a roof, stem off of boulders until you can clip the first bolt, then pull the overhang and make delicate moves out right to a ledge.  From here, follow the pretty and slightly overhanging arete on good holds to the top.

This is a long and fun jug-haul that is really well protected. There are a LOT of bolts. It's possible many climbers of the grade won't have enough draws, but if you are a 5.8-5.9 climber this is not to be missed. Easy climbing to the little roof and then things get more interesting from there. If you are more experienced, you can easily downclimb a couple moves and grab your draws from below you when the bolt spacing is close together so as to have enough draws to protect the whole thing.

P1: climb a nice, vertical crack system to a ledge, 5.7, 40 ft. Belay in corner from finger sized horizontals.

 P2: climb up corner, using some funky movement to get that extra reach to the glorious chicken heads. Trend left around mossy slopers to a chossy ledge (don't even breathe on some of these holds, super loose). I went right to avoid knocking any chunks down and belayed from a tree (slings and biners left behind). 5.9, 55 ft.

 P3: head left from belay to a slightly overhanging hand crack. Venture right to some small trees then pull the roof on sharp holds. Belay from tree up and right (slings and biners left behind). 5.9, 55 ft.

 P1 and 2 can be linked together if you're smart with runners and have an attentive belay for moving off the ledge. Harder moves, not that great of gear, and the ledge make for a potentially bad fall- that's why I would bring your belayer up to the ledge for less rope in the system.

 I have applied to bolt the route, but plan to only bolt pitch one and two because of choss city on pitch 3. Eventually it will be a good, moderate two-pitch route for the area.

Bolts are painted orange. Pretty easy ledges in the beginning. Once you get to the bolt where it starts getting super sloped go right to the dihedral and use the crack, (watch out for the loose block marked with an x, really tempting to grab getting over). Go up the pumpy crack and the anchors are right over the ledge. 

Start either clipping the bolts for story of my life or with gear in the finger crack. move left at the ledge and just beneath a lightning bolt crack system. Fingers to hands to a short off-with at the top.

How well you do on this route depends on whether you can suss out the tricky and wandering sequence and still reach the bolts. 

  Climb the face on crimpy holds to a small roof; pull the roof and continue to the anchors.

The home of a good assortment of moderates, Jimmywood can often be crowded.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Jimmywood