A proud climb on Coconino Sandstone up an imposing dihedral way back in a side canyon of Oak Creek.  Four pitches of physical, mostly wide climbing with good protection.   

  Pitch 1: Climbing the long corner system. Hands to squeeze chimney. 5.10+ (150 Ft.)   Pitch 2: Climb your way up a chimney stem box to a roof capped by an imposing table size plate. Pull the roof on the right, clip a bolt, and do a short fingers layback to the anchor. 5.11 (120 Ft.)   Pitch 3: Climb up to a left facing ringlock corner. Climb this pumpy section up and left to a large ledge. 5.11 (80 Ft.)   Pitch 4: There are 3 obvious crack systems from this belay. Currently the only established finish is the left most and easiest looking crack system. 5.9 (70 Ft.) 

  Rappel the route with two ropes or an 80 meter rope.  The top 3 rappels require only one rope, but the final rappel requires two.

Brokeback Mountain

This is the large east facing wall of Coconino Sandstone right of the Bear Gun Spire.  Routes vary from 1 to 5 pitches in length.  Numerous anchors can be found on the wall left of the Bear Gun - reference Tim Toula's "Cheaper Way to Die".  The routes on the Main Wall right of the Spire are referenced in Bloom's "Castles in the Sand."

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall