Decent route, albeit short, make big moves on good holds, the sequence might allude you at first, but reach and pull.

Ashore

Bat Crack

Brine Shrimp

Shoreline

Lands End

The Syndrome

Big Boss Groove

The Tide

Black fly

Mud Puppy

Bat Slab

A short but pumpy route with killer reaches and great two and three finger pockets. Crux is probably clipping and moving off the third bolt. Enjoy this short but sweet route and move on to the harder routes to it's right.

A few hard moves puts you into a surprisingly easy and reasonably enjoyable chimney.

Big pulls straight up the left line of glue ins. Short but fierce. Best to stick clip the first bolt and have the belayer clip into the bolt on the slab (or fixed line if it's there) and stand on a small cobble to belay. Prevents everybody from ending up down in the poison ivy.

This is a really good quality line and would be quite popular if located at another crag.   The business is between the 3rd and 5th bolt.   A couple nice deadpoint moves on steep rock.  Great rests as you get higher.   This one's cleaned up quite nicely, the only loose stuff is if you are not precise about where you put your feet.

Decent climbing on

Maple Canyon

like cobbles...

First route that you encounter.  Easiest route at the crag. Climb a series of cobbles, some loose and some solid. The crux comes early at the third bolt, the remainder of the climb involves finding holds and fighting the pump.

Rating-wise, BBG appears to be the easiest of the steep lines at the crag. However, the first 4 clips of this beast will leave you wondering if you should have tried Land's End or even Shoreline instead since they only have a couple of hard moves... The book give BBG 11c, I feel like it deserves solid 11d/12a based on its consistent difficulty.

Start by not laughing at the very low first bolt. Some people peel off before getting anywhere near the 2nd one... Once you figure out the burly start, keep pulling big moves between OK holds hidden in a pile of sloppy cobbles. A big undercling in the roof of the mini-cave provides a welcome rest before you launch into the upper section. While not as steep, it forces you to stem on crusty feet and lieback a crack feature, providing plenty of opportunities for air...

This is the steepest route at the crag.  It follows a gaping cleft out the middle of the crag.  The moves are fun, and most of the rock/cobbles seemed solid, but the majority route is covered by a fine layer of sand.

Make some fun moves on decent holds past an extremely low first bolt to gain some good holds below the crux.  Clip the second bolt then move slightly right over a short-lived bulge that involves widely spaced, slopey cobbles and ends with some good holds in the crack.  Keep moving up the crack using suspect cobbles until you can grab a no-hands chimney rest below the headwall.  A few more long moves along the thinning crack gains the anchor.

Kind of a pain to clean, but I left a carabiner in the roof to help.

The book says lots of 2 finger pockets and dishes. This isn't very accurate as I don't recall any. Pretty hard bouldery crux(not obvious sequence or holds) between bolts 2-3 on some bad crimps and a side pull before a massive slopey semi jug cobble around bolt 4. After that it is ridiculously steep 5.11 monster jugs that feel somewhat chossy to a small ledge followed by a short vertical pocket section to the anchor. Crux felt way steeper and harder than anything on shoreline. Book says 12c/d but I'd say 12d+ if shoreline is accurate at 12c

Besides a bit of poor rock at the start, and some painful pockets, this route offers a great power-endurance challenge with thoughtful movement, and a very challenging headwall.  Expect lots of hard climbing packed into 40 feet.

Begin up some loose rock passing a couple of very large protruding cobbles.  As the wall steepens, the cobbles fade into  sharp one and two finger pockets.  Just before you reach the headwall, crank past the crux- making very tensiony moves using horrible scoops and creative footwork to gain a good cobble.  Long moves to hidden and disappointing holds lead up and left to the shared anchor of Brine Shrimp.

Rated 12d but felt like solid 13a.  Maybe something broke?

Be sure to stretch out your finger tendons before trying this one.

Since the anchors are not directly above the route, cleaning is a little difficult.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shoreline Crag