An engaging line requiring a little bit of La Fuerza to send. Climbs some nice features.

 

La Fuerza (The Force)

Smile, Breathe and Go Slowly

Firstest with the Mostest

Humble Doubt

Nearest Nothing

Embrace the Suck

Wabi-Sabi

And Yet it Moves

Storm Trooper (incomplete project)

You're My Boy Blue!

God Helmet

Oh, to be young

Nevada Rain

What if!

Already Home

The Time Value of Time

They tried to bury us, not realizing we were seeds!

The Elusiveness of Balance

Ditch the Beans

The Middle Way (TOP ROPE; no bolts)

Top rope the direct straight up and down line off the Ditch the Beans anchor.  Independent climbing but would be a real squeeze job to bolt.  Easy enough to TR.  

  This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

Third from the left on the slab.  Crux start leads to fun chert tugging on perfect rock.

 This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.  

Climb up on the right side of the small grassy ledge and do the left of the two easy lines here. Fun chert and grey runnel pulling up the low angle slab.

  This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

Nice climbing up a low angle slab using a variety of features.

The far right line at Nueva Esperanza.  Climb nice grey rock.  

  This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

This fine line has multiple cruxes and several good rests.  It just goes and goes and goes for 90+ feet (60 meter required).  It pulls a small roof at about 80 feet.  A great route.   

  Obviously, it is wise to avoid touching the massive detached flake which is right of this route.   

  This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

A short adventurous line up less than perfect rock to the right of the massive scary flake.

 Proceed with great caution near the flake.

 Wabi-Sabi is the appreciation of impermanence and acceptance of imperfection.  Those that do not appreciate such should skip this one.  

  This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

A fun romp up the slab to a shared anchor with God Helmet.  

  This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

A striking line up the most beautiful part of the wall.  The first 25 feet have been done, but the decision of were to go from there (left/right) is TBD.  Open to anyone with the psych, power and the drill to do it.

The pretty blue streak on the far left side of the slab. This route get's a little "dusty" over the winter. Fun route on perfect stone.

 This is the first route on the left side of the main slab.  

This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

Fun climbing that gets a little harder the higher you climb.  Really fun and engaging for the grade. Great view of the peak as you climb. 

  This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

A challenging start leads to fun in the sun chert climbing.

A fun and technical climb up perfect grey rock.  It's not over until the anchor.

Climb up on the grassy ledge and take the right line on this bit of the wall. Pretty fun cruising.

  This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

Clip a low bolt and pull on to the low ledge. Cruise up the low angle slab to the anchor.

 The first bolt is below the ledge on this one.  Whereas the first bolts for both Firstest and What If are on the slab above the grassy ledge. 

  This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

The first route established here and one of the best. Amazing chert up the left side of the slab.

 This route is the second from the left on the main slab.  It has a very low first bolt and is distinguished by having huge chert the whole way up. 

  This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

A cruxy start leads to cruiser chert climbing to the anchor. 

  This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

A fun balance oriented 5.10 up nice grey rock.   

  This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the first ascent, and the first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climber's own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.

A dynamic start leads to continuous climbing to the anchor. Really good.

 

A cliff with some fantastic moderates and some remaining potential. The rock quality is very high and the trail is easy to follow as it is the well established Mary Jane Falls hike. This is a beautiful area with a perfect view down Kyle Canyon and up to the peak of Mt. Charleston. It is nicely situated about 2 minutes off the Mary Jane Falls trail, but it is perfectly hidden and quiet.

 The challenge with this wall is deciding when to climb there. It faces due south and is very sunny.  It is best very early in the morning during the summer, or all day when it is below 85 degrees in the valley (and you are in Red Rock). The best day I have had here was on New Years Eve (when it was about 70 in the valley).  The 65-85 degree window is ideal here (temps in Las Vegas, not on the mountain).  March and April tend to yield excellent conditions as does the fall.   Perhaps it will be a welcome escape in the Spring/Fall compared to waiting in lines at Red Rock. In the summer, the central slab gets sun by 9:30am and does not go back into shade until 4:30pm. The right wall stays in shade until about 11am. The 3 routes on the left wall get shade from the big pine tree and are pretty much always shaded.

 Thank you to those who contributed to developing this cliff.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Nueva Esperanza