Runout face route, basically five protection points in 120'. Steep start above a slot leads to pro behind a giant flake, a solid runout to a bolt , more runout, a clusterf*ck of gear draped over flakes, placed in patina, and/or secured with cardboard and chewing gum (reasonably good piece) to lower angle ground, a second bolt, and a last runout to the anchor.

Ghidorah

Rodan

Mothra

Clutch Cargo

Godzilla

The Hex Files

Scent of the Ultraman

Science Patrol

Ultraman

Speed Racer

MK Ultra

Destroy All Monsters

Mach 5

Ultramagnetic MCs

Sparsely protected but reasonably safe face climbing up the most prominent features on the left side of the wall, 2 short stacked black varnished corners. Route was put in ground-up, onsight, but may become a fairly popular toprope due to the relative ease of obtaining the anchors from the central ledge where many of the routes finish. The character of this one is a bit different in that it is not as blank or slab-oriented as some of the existing routes, more of a mellow face climb with some spice.

If you enjoy the climbing on Godzilla and feel like you're having a Bachar day, this lead is for you. Rock is mostly solid though less trafficked than its neighbors, bolted anchor at the top, a fun route with a mind control component. Gear should be considered ornamental, no solid cracks on this one, or horizontals, for that matter.

This is the first route on the left.  It follows 7 bolts on good varished edges.  This route is the best protected route on the wall.  It felt easier than the 5.8's to the right.  The climbing is fun and can be done with a single 60M rope.

Fun & nicely runout route with solid holds.

This is the only route on the wall that requires a rack to climb. However, the protection is tricky in spots and non-existent in others. A massive traverse requires many long slings- and rope drag is still an issue! 

  Start in the large left facing dihedral on the right side of the wall. Follow this up as it arches and traverse to the base of a finger crack. Follow this up, then step left and climb over some boulders to a ledge and belay. Just below this ledge is the Science Patrol rappel anchor.  

  Two ropes are required for rappel.

Easy slab climbing on the left side of the Ultraman Wall. The first bolt line to the left of Clutch Cargo. Its a good warm up for the rest of the wall.   Like the rest of the wall, it is a little run out between the bolts but you're not going to hit the ground anywhere.

This is the last bolted line on the right hand side of the wall. It starts about 50'-60' to the left of a large, left facing dihedral on black varnish plates.  

  Head up the face, following the bolts through a fun slab section up to a steep headwall. From there, head straight up again to a ledge with two bolts.  

  This is probably the best protected route on the wall, and also one of the best- classic movement on good rock for 170+ feet! 

  You need two ropes to rappel this route.

This route is the 2nd bolted climb from the left.  It follows a waterstreak to a ledge with a bolted anchor.  There are eight bolts on the route,  with 20 foot runouts on sandstone fiction slab near the top.  Most of the rock is solid, but all of the edges are rounded.  Classic...

This climb starts 50ft to the right of Ultraman 5.8+. The climb starts in a left facing corner in black varnish. A small piece can be placed to protect getting to the first bolt. Follow a total of 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The climbing is just a good as Ultraman, and a little more runout. There is groundfall potential between 30-40ft on the route. Be careful.Rap with two ropes.

A fun face climb that has varied climbing and several cruxy spots. Unexpected techniques for the angle get you through the closely bolted crux, then long stretches of easier climbing between bolts leads to a decent stance and anchor. Sort of like a 5.9 version of Godzilla. Though there is distance between bolts, it worked out nicely that all the stout moves are reasonably short distances above a clip.

A fun line, technical and thin down low, airy and mellow as the route goes on. Name inspired by the 1968 film in which all the Godzilla-era monsters become controlled by an all-female alien race and destroy major cities before battling each other. A safe line and the most technically difficult on the wall, this was a ground-up line bolted onsight on a cloudy winter day and put up with the intent to show that quality sport lines can be put up in good style and still be an adventure to establish.

Right of Scent of an Ultraman, a TR exists that looks like it's been there for a long time, judging from the rust on the quicklinks that are in place. Moderate climbing, probably best set up as a TR after leading Scent or Mothra.

A surprisingly moderate and well-protected face climb that simply eats as much gear as you can throw at it for the first half, then steepens and follows three bolts to a spacious ledge and bolted anchor just left of Godzilla's. Quality rock for a Calico Hills first ascent.

This sunny slab is located to the west of Panty Wall. Runout sandstone slab climbing is the name of the game. Most of the routes are in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. A light rack and 2 ropes will be useful on some of the routes. The area classic is Ultraman 5.8+. You better have slab technique squared away before hopping on these routes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Ultraman Wall