This is a really fun route, offering great protection and a variety of movement. It really is a gem for this area.

The first 15 feet climbs the obvious face (5.5) to a slanted ledge (anther 10 or 15 feet). Work your way up to a small broken face crack system that will lead left into the main crack (5 easy) placing gear where desired. The crux of the climb is getting into the crack off the ledge (5.9).

Once in the crack and over the first bulge, work your way directly up the crack, enjoying hand jam after hand jam. Small ledges and nobs are on the face for helpful feet  Climb the crack for another 50 feet until you get to a small ledge. Take in the surroundings, and enjoy the view.

From the ledge, mantel up and over another bulge (5.9 awkward) to a great stance. Climb the rest of the crack for about 15 feet, and the anchors await.

Don't Mess With The Reaper

Esquire

Jedi Mind

Your Mom is Hot Though

Wyld Stallynz Arete Variation

Wyld Stallynz

Whoa Donuts!

Eschatology

The Delusionist

Flunking Most Heinously

Climb past the first 2 bolts to a nice comfy ledge  Clip the 3rd bolt, and traverse left to a shallow seam. Move up the seam using the small crimps and delicate feet to move through the crux. Climb up and over two more small ledges to the anchor.

This is a fun climb that shares the start with

Whoa Donuts!

. Follow the thin crack seam up the right dihedral to the major overhang bulge. Traverse under the bulge to the right, larger cams like a BD #3 or #4 can protect this section. Move into a thin fingers crack working up the bulge. There is plenty of good feet. Protect this thin crack, and prep for the crux move onto the ledge. The move is more heady than physical, so pay attention to feet and hands. There is a bolt that will protect you once you pull the move left out onto the ledge. Then follow the nice fingers to hands crack up to the anchors.

Climb the fist-sized crack to a ledge, then cut right to a thin crack that leads to some easy slab. The first 20 feet is the crux, with an airy feel near the top. Climbing the crack proper and not using the face makes the route a little more difficult. This is a great crack to practice gear placements.

This is a really fun climb. The start is the same as

Jedi Mind

Tricks up to ledge (5.7). At the base of the main crack, high step to pull up into the main crack. Getting into the crack is the tricky part (5.8), then stay in the crack to the two bolt anchor. The crack goes up and left, with solid gear to place as much as you want. You can use the face, but it is dirty and loose. It is short, simple, and fun.

It is really hard to find a climb at this grade that has this much air under you! Follow the standard route up and over the overhang section. The standard route will go up and left following a thin seam. Look to the right, and follow the 4 bolts that protect the arete to the anchor. Have fun, and enjoy the exposure!  There is a two bolt anchor. A 60m rope works fine.

Wyld Stallynz is a bold sport route. It was bolted with the intent of not being a bolt ladder but is protected where it needs to be. It has 12 bolts in total.  There are a few crack where gear could be placed if desired.

Start just left of the overhanging rock and left of the gully. Climb easy 3rd Class rock for about 10 feet to the first bolt. Follow the face to the left-facing dihedral that leads to the roof (5.8ish).

Clip the roof bolt, with a huge jug just overhead. There are lots of feet on the left face to stem. Pull the roof up to a nice ledge and clip the next bolt (5.9). From the ledge, step out onto the face over the overhang, and enjoy the exposure. Follow the bolts up and left to another great ledge (you can protect with gear) to a thing hand seam the trends up and left (you can protect the seam with small gear), 5.8+.

Follow the seam up and left to a no hands with thin feet. Clip and rest, 5.9- 5.9+. This is the start of the crux.

Step up to a small foot, and clip the next bolt (scary), and work up the seam.  There is a small sloper/crimp to the left of the clip that can be used as a sidepull. The feet are small and delicate with minimal hands. Pull up and onto the slab, heading straight up the the ledge, with a bolt and a great rest spot (5.11a/b?).

From the ledge, you have two more bolts (about 15 feet) and climbing at 5.7+ to two ring bolt anchors. Enjoy the victory and scenery.

Start at the base of a right-facing dihedral, and work right up into a small ledge. Follow the easy terrain into a nice crack system. The crux is just getting into the crack from the ledge. Follow the crack to the top of a large ledge system.

From the top of the large ledge, go up and left in the small crack, and pull up around a block to the fixed anchor at a nice ledge.

Eschatology is well protected using the crack system up the right part of the face.  Some of the crack flairs out, so don't be fooled from the base.  Up near the top the crack is very solid and has bomber pro.  The crux is about halfway up, when you have to pull left up to better hand holds.  This section is not protected as well, but above there are some nice placements.  The other difficult part is pulling up the face after a small traverse into the upper crack.

Climb hand-finger crack to its end, then face climb past horizontal cracks to a bolt. Make thin/techy moves above bolt to gain a leftward-trending hand crack. Follow it to the top. Extend from a tree to make an anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Rock Pile