First crux is protected by first bolt then followed by another 11a if you move right or 10 c/d crux going left depending on the direction you take. another 10d crux higher up on a weird lieback type seam.

La Leche

Free For All

Just a Local Nobody

Carrot Top

Route Canal

Pump Floyd

Biemer's Trough

Slime and Dine

Energy Crisis

Rusty's Cave

Direct Exposure

Static Cats

Out of Hangers

Oh My!

Squeeze Job

Knee Surgery

Mickey's Carnal Desire

Letterman

Spring Route

Dark Side of the Moon

Indecent Exposure

P-Crack

Garden Party

Senior Moment

Sofa King Great

The Hanging Teeth

Back Surgery

Epidural

Jump For Joy

Poor Man's P Crack

Impacted Stool Crack

P-Wall Direct

Black Streak

Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay

Dyno Dogs

Spring Route (Direct Variation)

Poor Man's Cave (variation)

Stage Fright

Leapin' Lizards

Climb past two bolts and left of a small roof, then up grooves to the La Leche anchors. The first bolt is a little high.

Climb past the undercling a couple of moves off the ground to a series of pockets and crimps. Reach high and left for the arete and pull onto it (the crux). Follow the technical grooves to the set of chains at the top of the route.

One of the more approachable moderates at Bishop Peak, this route starts up a slab to the right of Hanging Teeth, (and Left of P Wall Direct), and then goes over a small roof at bolt 2 (5.8). A few more gear and bolt protected sections bring you up to a crux, getting over another small roof (.10b). Then go up the good crack behind a flake (gear) and join hanging teeth for the last 3 bolts (5.8). From there you can belay, or make it to the top with a 70.

A good route for the grade and very accessible to the onsight leader. Go for it!

Bring a 70m if you are planning to rap or TR.

2nd pitch option above P-Crack. Pulls a large, bolt-protected, mantle move to the right of Letterman. Originally entered as a variation to Letterman, this route shares only a few moves near the very top and deserves its own page. Generally considered the preferred option for summiting P-Wall (or Bishop Peak as a whole if you continue walking up).

From the oak tree, start up a face directly below the roof above. At 20' you will pass a bolt and then climb a flaring groove (possible pro). Above this climb past a very small pocket (nut pro) and then cam the roof/flake (double cam it if possible). Then friction up over the roof (steep) and clip. From here (crux), things are mentally easier. Continue up past 5 bolts (5 above roof) to new anchors (not set on FA) near huge flake/corner.

Aim up and left out of the cave belay toward a shallow, grey, trough. A tooth-like feature just below the start of the trough is a landmark to look for.

Purdy durdy at this point. No love for the Trough apparently. If you can make it to The Vagine, you're pretty much home free. Climbing with a brush is recommended but may add an hour to your ascent (wish I had brought one). It's often said, but if this route cleans up some, it would actually be a quite good, mostly gear protected journey to the top of P-Wall. And, combining it with Rusty's Cave would make it the easiest route to the top of the main face (movement-grade-wise), although currently the grade is a bit shrouded by lichen and questionably fragile holds.

Most of the route protects quite reasonably in short cracks and grooves that open up and are fairly spaced. The runout is up higher on easier terrain, but don't let your guard down and pop off on a fragile hold or slip on the plentiful banana-peel lichen. There are a couple of larger holds down low around the bolt that beg to be used, but are timebombs (a large left-foot edge, and an obvious left-hand jug). They, and other fragile features, can be climbed around. I found the moves getting to the bolt and past it to be a bit tricky.

I found only 1 useable bolt which appears to be a replacement, set a couple feet left of the original, which is still visible as a thin, rusty stud. The existence of a higher bolt is questionable, but also moot, since it's not really needed unless it had protected the upper runout of easy terrain.

Route ends at a good 2 bolt anchor with chains

This route is just to the right of P-Wall Direct which is more or less in the center of P-Wall.  It passes to the left of Rusty's Cave.  The crux I believe is around the second and third bolts and seems well protected.  Above the third bolt you are in for some easier but runout climbing with thin gear placements in spots.

Same start as Rusty's Cave. Work up face to right slanting crack. After crack runs out, head straight up broken obvious weakness. After a few steep pumpy moderate moves, Rusty's Cave traverses left, but Energy Crisis continues straight up the steepening wall to a smallish hanging tooth. Getting to the tooth appears to be the crux, but there are more difficulties past the tooth. At about 20' past the tooth, the difficulty eases a bit, trend left looking for the belay station anchors. There is a lot of lichen in places, but that won't be your main concern.

Rusty's Cave starts on the right side of the P-Wall near the detached buttress. The start is marked by a big pocket about 7 feet up. Climb the slab up to the diagonal crack and your first placement. Follow the uneven shallow crack for about 45 feet. Look for the first chance to traverse left(don't go to high). Clip the bolt and continue left for the small cave/ledge and the anchor.

This route starts right of "Indecent Exposure" and connects to "Out of Hangars" and ends at the anchors above "Knee Surgery." The runout section is on easy (5.7/5.8) terrain above bolt 5 of "Out of Hangars." You can just barely TR this from the ground by using a directional on bolt 5 of "Out of Hangars." Be sure to have your belayer tie in to the end of the rope! Note: this climb is height-dependent (especially the opening move), Shorter climbers may grade it harder.

A well protected pocketed face just to the right of Epidural. Start as for Spring Route or Dyno Dogs and go straight up the 3 bolt headwall directly under the anchor bolts for Spring Route & Epidural.

This climb was originally on site "flashed" in 1981 by Tim Sorenson & Jeff Shrimpton.  Bolts were placed on lead.  The route was previously rated 5.10b(R) in the Tucker/Steele book.  The Slater guide rates it at 5.10a(R).  For the longest time, you had to bring your own hangers if you wanted to climb this route.  As late as 1994, the Steele book was recommending that you bring hangers just in case!  Don't worry, the hangers are all there today.

After dislodging a massive boulder and unleashing it onto the access trail below, my partner decided he would tackle this climb. After multiple falls off at the third bolt, it was sent and turned into a great climb. Better if you taunt, "I sure hope they went back and got the hangers they ran out of."

This route has a series of physical and mental cruxes. The first crux comes after clipping the 1st bolt. Head straight up or cruise a bit left for an easier time. Place one or two cams under the big block. Be sure to place long runners on them to reduce rope drag. Make a big step up and right as you mantel onto the block (2nd crux). Step up and place a red alien (or Tricam)in the lower solution pocket about waist high on your right. You might get a gold alien in the upper pocket. Without the alien, the route would probably get an R rating. Reach up high and search for big rails. Move up and clip the 2nd bolt. Make a step up and wander left across easier ground toward an old, rusted leeper hanger. Clip this with a loooong runner then move right out to the arete. Reach high and right to clip the final bolt and follow the arete to the single bolt anchor. Supplement this with a small cam (1/2" to 3/4") or sling the block. For an interesting variation, instead of clipping the final bolt on the arete, go straight up after clipping the rusty leeper. You can place pro beneath the detached flake.

After leading this climb, go climb Spring Route (5.8R) or Dark Side of Moon (5.8). Both Spring Route & Dark Side offer various top rope options.

This route starts next to Stage Fright, but goes up and to the left to common anchors.  The moves are all there, but it's balancy and awkward in spots.  The crux may actually be getting started as you step off the block over the abyss to actually get on to P-Wall itself - have your belayer stand below the start in the gully. This is a good, short route that demands your attention. The first ascentionist told me this was his first climbing activity after knee surgery, and hence the name.

Short, balencey, reachy, and only a little bit licheney.

Letterman is the 3rd pitch of P- Crack. From the 2nd belay lead up through a left facing corner. As the corner ends traverse right to the anchors.

A fun variation is to do a bolt protected mantle over the corner and follow the the crack up and left past the "P" paint until it ends. Then traverse up and right to the anchors. The lower anchors can be skipped with a 60m rope to reach the summit anchors at a nice ledge. From here you can take the short walk to Sunnyside Wall.

Scramble up the loose access trail to the base of P-Wall.  When you are looking straight at the rock, take a right toward the right side of P-Wall.  Once you scramble up a short (10') 4th class section, stop and you'll find yourself at the base of the Spring Route.  It's name comes from the small spring dribbling out of the rock at the start of the climb.  Work your way up a crack to the right and wander around to a bolt just left of the anchor chains.  To experience the 5.8 crux, climb straight up after the bolt (hard to protect) or work your way right on easier ground (5.7), then straight up to the anchor.  Once at the anchor, you can lower off, continue up to a new set of anchors about 20' above (good top rope location), or continue up to the top of P-Wall.  The original line continued all the way to the top (quite mungy).  Once you set up the Spring Route anchors, top rope the two starting variations, Dyno Dogs (5.10a) and Leaping Lizards (5.9+).  Climbers in this area are guanteed to have good views and (usually) solitude.

Start at the large chockstone in the gulley. Before stepping up to the ledge above the chockstone, place a 1" (+/-) cam in the big hole off to your right. Once you step up to the ledge and under the roof you can place a small nut or cam above your head so you can step up and clip the bolt above the overhang. Make the bolt protected mantle move and work your way up past 1 more bolt on your way to the anchors. The runout to the anchors is 5.6. Once you reach the top rap off or TR Dark Side (5.10) or Jeff's Crack (5.9). Both are left of Dark Side. The upper pitch has nothing harder than 5.6 but provides a nice way to get to the top of P-Wall. After you make the top of P-Wall, work your way up to Sunnyside (5.9) and cruise to the summit.

This route is a great way to get out onto P-Wall.  It starts in the steep gully to the left of P-wall (climb 2 in the topo), ascending the "flank", and then stepping out onto the face.  Slot a small Camalot at the start to protect the starting moves.  Climb up, making awkward moves that demand attention.  At the arete, clip the last bolt and make a thin and airy traverse directly across to anchors.  Either rap P-crack or continue up "Letterman."

The route follows the broken corner on the left side of P-wall up to the beginning of Impacted Stool Crack and then traverses right to the first bolt. I usually run it out to here but if you want protection, bring those hexes or large cams and long slings. After the bolt, the climb follows the crack up to the second bolt. Once clipped, traverse right and then up to the anchors. You can climb straight up after the second bolt but it's 5.10. This is a great route for learing trad and its fun if you continue up on Letterman to the next anchors and then scramble the rest of the way to the top of the peak.

Belay from Madison Sq. Garden anchors, traverse the top and step across the gully. [Tip: sling the little tree to keep your line out of the dirt] First bolt a few moves up on good incut holds. Climb straight up following bolts, has a really nice top out. NOTE: This route can be done independently or as pitch 2 of the 4 pitch link-up THE BACKDOOR 5.8 that takes climbers to the summit via 4 or 5 pitches. (see description on GARDEN WALL page.)

Nice long, direct line up the center of P Wall.  Variety of moves including a sweet finger crack section (ten feet long) which Senior Moment shares with P Wall direct.  This is the only place SM touches another route.  Lichen yes, but it seems not to affect the climbing too much.  We'll see if SM gets enough ascents to clean up.  A leader can lower off the anchor (and set a top rope)  with a 70m rope.

Straight up the gray streak to the Rusty's Cave anchor. Steep, with nice positive holds. Crux is between bolts 2 and 4 (which isn't very far). If it seems improbable, look harder; it's all there.

This route is just left of center of the P-wall face.  It is defined by a distinctively jagged undercling area where the rock bulges out, about one third of the way to the top.  Above this formation there is a flake with a distinct right facing dihedral(corner).  The route follows the corner and good pro is found there.  There are optional starts but as good as any is straight down from where the undercling originates on its left side(this is the same start as for "Root Canal").  Aim for the left side of the undercling, passing one bolt and some possible tricam placements.  This area is not difficult but has sketchy pro. At the undercling pro is great for protecting the crux.  From the left edge do an undercling traverse right 5-6 ft(wild and showy).  Look for spot where some jugs are almost within reach, you should still be to the left of the flake above.  After pulling up and sl. left over the bulge you are ready to make a balancy move to the right, around the corner into the dihedral.  From the top of the dihedral link up with the "cave to P" route or follow bolts straight up which are a part of "Root Canal".  In either case you skirt a large left facing flake at the top.  Bolt anchors can be found at the top.

Climb first three bolts of Knee Surgery, then head slightly right for two more bolts, pulling over a small roof.  Ends at KS anchors.  A nice addition to the wall!

Great, well-protected route on clean rock with good holds. The first crux comes before clipping the first bolt. The second comes as the wall steepens after the third bolt. Shares the anchors with Spring Route.

Beautiful, exposed climb that runs dead center over the front of P-Wall. The crux occurs right in the middle of the route, right as the wall steepens. The last half of the route is on great textured rock on easier ground. Either do it straight up from the ground (200', tie in to each end of the rope), or break it into 2 pitches by climbing directly from the ground to the first set of anchors, or traversing over from the first belay of P-Crack.

Crux is getting over the "tooth" like feature, well protected move. A second pitch to rusty's cave last pIece is a shallow red camalot.

A 60 meter rope will get you all the way to the round with one rap.

Good route high up on the p wall with a cool view of downtown and the hikers trail. Top of pitch is a little slick and full of lichen (what isn't) but relatively easy.

Stout lead. The bottom is low angle (and mostly soloable for  5.9 leader) and is the start for P Crack as well, but instead of heading left, go up.

This route is between Hanging Teeth and Slime and Dine.  The upper portion merges with the Cave to "P" route.  It is at the center of the P Wall face so an ascent of it captures the essence of the wall.  The first 40 feet(approx) has no useable protection that I could find so be prepared to be run out at 5.4.  The start is directly below the first bolt (approx 50 feet up).  There is a moderatly angled apron with a hairline fracture in it and leading to the right of a rt-facing dihedral. Above that the grade steepens on good holds and 10 feet below the bolt are some shallow but bomber cracks for tri-cams, or other, to protect the rest of the way to the bolt.  From the bolt traverse right to a splendid crack(the crux but well protected).  The crack is just right of a brown water chute.  From here continue straight up to find 2 more bolts and a new belay/rappel station(not sure why these are here) on the left side of the large hanging flake.  I prefer to continue up the left-facing dihedral and belay in a small alcove not far from the summit.  Close by are anchors at the top of Letterman.  The varied terrain and airy environs make for a great climb.

To find this route, just look right of P-Crack.  It follows the obvious "black streak".  This route shares the middle and upper P-Crack anchors. If lead from the ground, this route is over 100'.  You can top rope the route after climbing P-Crack.  To top rope, your climber will need to  climb up about 20' of 4th class in the BIG crack that leads to the 1st P-Crack anchors (or bring a 70 meter rope!).  The bolts are currently the original quarter-inchers placed by Ed & Menzo in 1989.  They include some home made hangers to boot.  Lichen adds another interesting element.  This could be a really great route if properly cleaned & re-bolted.

Starting immediately right of line for Sofa King, climb straight up sharp crystals on the white streak to the anchor shared by Sofa King and Rustys Cave.

Approach P wall.  When you get there turn right and make your way along the base of the rock, then climb the 4th class notch.  When you are at the top, you are there, look up and follow the bolts.  There is said to be a dyno on the route, but it seems a bit slabby to be hucking for holds.  I was able to do it static.  The end is a bit run out, but easy climbing if you have made it that far.

Start up Spring Route, then rather than head right (around) the arete, head straight up seam. Variation connects with original route at the end of the seam and just below the roof.

Climb the route Rusty's Cave but at the last bolt go straight up rather than traversing left to the anchor.  A 3.5 camalot (or equivalent) can be placed here and leads you to the first bolt of Poor Mans P Crack and the rest of this (variation) route.  Slings on most if not all pieces, including a few double slings, straighten out the line and reduce the drag.  Lower off with a 70m; with a 60m you will most likely have to rap to the Rusty's Cave anchor.  The charm of this climb is it's length and it's mix of trad and sport.

The climb starts off in the tree on the far left of P Wall.  Shown as route 1 in the topo. You'll have to do some fanangling to get up there and then you'll get to enjoy some nice positive ledges to some blank spots. Real thinker of a route if I remember correctly.

Leapin' Lizards is either a start variation to Spring Route or a separate route.  Option #1 - Clip the lower bolts, then head left onto Spring Route to clip the stray, off route bolt way to the left (use a looong sling) then go either straight up (bold!) or work your way right of the arete to the anchors under the roof.  Option #2 - Go up the thin seam (use a small wired), clip the lower Lizard bolts, then go straight up to the new finish right of Spring.  Use small gear & more draws to head up over the roof to the right.  Once over the roof, work your way right to the anchors 25' above on the right.  There are several good climbs that can be top roped from these upper anchors.

Grade Comments:  The book gives Leapin' Lizards (Option #1) a 5.8 rating.  I disagree.  I think it's pretty solid 5.9.  Maybe if you wire the moves, it eventually feels 5.8, but I doubt it.  Please climb it and confirm for me!  Option #2 is 5.9 or possibly 5.10a.  The roof move feels hard, but is well protected.

To find the climb, ascend the fourth class notch to Spring Route (small amount of water dripping out of crack in the rock), then look for the bolts just right of the spring.  The first set of bolts is Dyno Dogs (5.10a) and the 2nd is Lizards.  A couple other climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11 range can be found uphill and to the right that are worth checking out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in P-Wall