Climb the arete on the right of the Triangle Boulder. Start low down, and finish either left or right of the pinnacle - both are about V3. A pad should fit nicely, and a spotter is recommended due to the big block behind the route.

Triangle Boulder Arete

Warm-up Boulder Traverse

Quarry Bolulder Arete Right

Quarry Boulder Arete Left

Sheep Rock Offwidth

Traverse the Warm-up Boulder to the left. It has a little of everything slab, crack, face and overhung climbing. This can be made more difficult with eliminates and variations. It has mostly good landings with some roots and rocks.

Climb the Quarry Boulder with the arete on your left. A difficult and balancy pull leads to a slab finish.There is a nice, flat landing area with room for multiple pads.

Climb the Quarry Boulder with the arete on your right. This has solid arete holds with thin or smearing feet. It is kind of a funky gap with a block in back of it and protects well with a pad.

Climb the offwidth crack of Sheep Rock. A slanted pad placement and a less-than-optimal landing area make this one a bit bold. My first ascent was in mountain bike shoes....

Lowell-Dracut-Tyngsboro State Forest or LDT is mostly a hiking and mountain biking destination situated between Lowell, Dracut, and Tyngsboro. The boulders here are somewhat spread out but are mostly located around the rock playground closest to the Trotting Park Road entrance on the south side of the Forest. There are about 5 or so boulders with worthwhile climbing that I have found and some potential for others and new routes. Not being on the climbing radar, many of the boulders are frequently used for campfire backstops and collect glass and other sharps. Plan to do some stewardship, and pack out some trash if you visit. Despite the fire and trash scene, the boulders here are worth a visit. Also of note, this area can be great for little kids to climb as there are many smaller "kid boulders" and a few geocaches. Enjoy!

Description

Protection

Routes in Lowell-Dracut-Tyngsboro State Forest