Never Trust a Mustache climbs a tall face on sloping pockets and an interesting crack feature. A rather strange, but quite good problem that requires ample strength and technique. Start on a shelf and move rightward through slopey pod crimps to a long move up and right to a good hold. Follow a crack with face holds to a small ledge, then an easy but very high low-angle topout.

Never Trust a Mustache

Bridge Arete

Air Cooper

Orange Slice

Crystal Tips

Butterfly

Great Dane

Paper or Plastic

Cadillac Crack

Whiplash

Contusion

Redneck

Slow Drag

Old Inspirations

Right Of Tree

Kind Flake

The Thief

Get Shorty

Cave Traverse

Trick or Treat

Busu

Spook Eye

Distractions

Pearl Necklace

High Life

World Below

Wasp

Lou-ser

Just Massage Oil

Jugs

Jen Problem

Indian Roof

Easy Touch

No Tranquility

The Crown

Lay It Down

JB Slab

Uniball

Litz Pocket Problem

Eight Ball

Slider

BK Problem

Classless

Cuts Like a Knife

Turtle Head Left.

The Drip

Crisfix

Lady Slipper

Sierzant Problem

Red Arrow

Stretch Armstrong

God Module

Orca

Cadillac Thrills

Stingray

Man With The Slow Hand

Orchid

Great White

Skywalker

Mistaken Identity

The Blob

Merlin

Brain Wave

Brawn

Spandex Ballet Sit

Lawdog

Momma's Boy

High Jons

Red Arrow 2 (aka Little Red Arrow)

Ticket Home

Slider sit start

Lea's Problem

Stage Fright

Squeeze Play

Satan Verses

Smile and Recieve

Turtle Head Right

SuperSlider

Waterloo

Bradiation

Honky Tonkin'

Green Lantern Low

Genesis

Green Lantern

God Given

Sure Thing

HP Sauce

Sordid

Getcha some

Indian Roof Right

Faint Hearts

Indian Roof Direct.

Broadway

Dirty Deeds

Bump That

This clean, white arete is another underrated classic moderate of HP40. Start sitting on good sidepull jugs on either side of the arete. Stand up and reach for a hold on the arete, then a decent sidepull pod above and to the left. Moving your feet up, reach towards the upper part of the slopey arete. If you stick this sloper move, it's an easy reach to a good knob atop the arete and a simple topout.

Stand start. Get set, and make a huge Dyno out to roof lip.

Orange Slice is an anomalous problem at Horse Pens. Instead of climbing on low-angle slopers, the route follows a slightly overhung crimp line. Starting low in a crack/pocket (you can also move in from a crack on the left at the same grade), climb a series of almost identical thin, incut crimps. The line is obvious, and trends towards an obvious two-hand slopey pocket. Hold it together for one last long move off a sidepull to a jug on a horizontal feature. Traverse right and drop off.

Stand start.Short jump up to marked faint footholds ( this will be a deadpoint ). Ease left on small dishes to a sloping edge. A long reach gets the top out.

Sit start very low on pockets. Continue with hard moves up the face.

Start on good holds, move to bad sloping crimp, bring up right foot and snag the jug. Set up feet and execute a very long move to the sloping lip. Then typical HP40 top-out. Holds on left side of arete are off.

Start almost with a campus and get a high left foot on solid jib. Move up crack to nice holds up top.

Sit start. Climb up and left. Climb arete to the top.

Start low. Long move into a mantle top out

Sit start on low edges. Do a Iron cross to the left for a good hold and then continue up face/crack.

Pocket problem! Start on jugs and go up sharp pockets to a topout.

Start in cave on huge pod. Long move leads to bread loaf hold then out left to face. Funky moves lead to sloping dish up and left.

This improbable line climbs a tall, harder-than-V2-looking overhanging bulge. Starting sitting at the edge of a low roof on good crimps, make a big move to a positive iron seam. Match, then move left to a sidepull pocket before matching above on a flat hold. Make another large move to a pocket out right, then up and left to a thank-god flake. Climb the flake to a high and slightly tricky topout.

Start on jug under roof, long move to good hold then up on tiny crimps.

Start on jugs and mix around on the MEAN slopers to a topout.

AWESOME! Sit-Start in back of cave on jug. Follow jugs to shelf 20 feet left. Step off.

Stand start. Climb slopers with double water grooves to the top.   Note: If you can do Millipede, you can do this one.

Stand start. Climb up the easy face to top-out with a mantle.

Interesting climbing on fun pockets defines this short problem. Start low and right in the cave on a good jug. Post feet and bust left to a good 3-finger pocket (crux). Cross or bump through to another 3-finger, then move up to an excellent pinch between two more pockets. From here, follow a good slopey rail to its end, and step off onto the boulder behind you. Warning: the problem is a bit contrived. There is a fantastic jug out left of the pockets, and the step-off is less than smooth. Fun nonetheless, if only for the first four moves.

Sit start. Match hands on nasty sloper. Mak a hard move  gets you to a jug at the bottom of a crack. Climb jugs to the top.

Start on good holds with a high right foot, and shoot straight up through more good stuff until you hit the topout at just 6 feet. Low to medium technical topout, and a safe fall make this a great topout trainer. Good stone.

Sit start low on jug. Move to the right edge the to sloper. A long reach gets you to another sloper, then a nice mantle. Stay off the big jug to the right, as it isn't part of the problem.

Sart on nice jugs beside arete. Make your way out the obvious holds to the tree and mantle out.

This aptly-named problem climbs a series of aesthetic pockets and scoops in the honeycombed Wasp boulder. Starting low, move left and up to a hard move into a dish. Finish more easily up the pockmarked slab to a high topout. Many say that the downclimb is the crux; ignore them and scoot down the far side of the boulder using a tree.

Statr on left-slanting edge. Long move left to horizontal pinch then out roof to jug.

Start on juggy rail.  Long move to pocket.  Finish up face

Climb jugs to the right of Trick or Treat.

Stand start on big break. Campus up to next break and exit stage left. ( same exit as Indian Roof Right)

Climb the friction slab in the pit directly behind Man with the Slow Hand.  Excellent movement and a bit scary right at the top.

Sit start low on jug. With your left reach for a pocket.  Then to slopey edges. Climb zi-zag face.

The Crown refers to the final hold of the climb, a bulbous knob that you will learn to love. To reach it, sit start low in an awkward pocket with slippery feet. Depending on your height, moving off of this could be the crux (tall people will have trouble here, short people at the top). Move up and left to a good sidepull pocket with a thumb catch. Right hand then goes up to a similar hold. After two more similar sidepull moves, establish feet and pull on hard for the crown. Top out easily. 

  This problem is enjoyable because you are constantly shifting your weight across the face while using the various sidepulls. The final deadpoint, while intimidating, is fairly straightforward.

Sit start. From jugs, move to lip, traverse right, and mantle.

Filthy sad garbage slab. Start on slopers, stand on lichen, reach up to slopers, stand on more lichen, and then stab to the jugs above the bulge.

SDS very low matched on good jug. Make a tough, strength dependent move up to an undercling (many consider this to be the crux) then continue up the steep face and top out at the upper left corner.

Climb out shallow pockets with the tree behind you. Top out as Boomslang and Cuts Like A Knife.

Eight Ball climbs a slightly overhanging face on pockets and jugs (including the eponymous '8' pocket) to a reachy Horse Pens topout. Start low, and on the topout, sift through the assortment of less-than-ideal holds to find the one that will allow you to pull right to a jug.

Sit start on low jug and trend right via crmps and slopers through arete to top.

Sit start on jugs right of Lady Slipper.  Climb bulbous face.

About 7 feet left of Slider, SDS on a low jug and move more or less straight up using a razor-sharp crimp on the face.  Hit the juggy break then hand traverse up and right until its end.  A subtle sidepull and jug out right will set you up for the classic sloper topout.

Sit start under small roof. Move out to the left and climb jugs to the top.

Sit start on okay holds.  As you move up and right, the holds get better.  Continue up the arete to the top out.

Sit start on low slopey edge. Climb the seam.

Nice big boulder with a red arrow on front, another classic must do!!

Stand start. Start on crimps, climb out roof. Being Tall helps.

one of the hardest problems at hp40, Stand start on crimpers(no jumping!)paste foot on wall,then go to crimps on seam, continue to top!! Good Luck!!

Start on a low jug. Climb up the groove to a slopey mantle.

Stand start on good edges. With right hand go up for sloper and work off slopers to the left and top out.

Start with the jug under the roof. Reach for a tiny crimp. Climb face to finish through groove.

Jump start to edges, slap left to dish and mantle hard /on an overhanging boulder

A right-arching sloper problem that starts down in a hole.  Must smear feet/no foot holds, boulder on left is off.

A series of great sloper moves up a featured groove make this problem, tucked away from the main parts of HP, an underrated classic. Sidepull your way up the Bum Boy-like slopers using technical footwork.

Sit start. Start on crimps and move up to slpoey arete. Sqeeze tight to the top.

Sit start on furtherest end and trend right to hard break to hard cross through move in the center of face, then continue to  the top via hp slopers!

Start with wide hands on high compression slopers. Work your way up until you can mantle.  Lots of compression (and forearm cheese-grating...)

Sit start on jugs.  Move up and mantle at the top.

100% crimper problem. Start on crimps, and go up on crimps.

Easy high slab. Stand start on the small jugs and walk up the slab, top out on the jugs.

This is the slab problem just right of the downclimb tree.  Stand start and work your way to the large undercling/sloper halfway up the slab.  Slabby move to top out.  Do not lean to hard on the downclimb tree to the left.  It is not very solid.

Freaky mantle time. Start low on the jug, traverse up left to another jug, and go to the high crimps and topout on them.

A cool little 1-2 move start added to the totally decent v3 Spandex Ballet. Start seated with hands on decent shallow slopers, place high right foot, and work your way up to the right to the starting right hand jug on Spandex Ballet. Finish on that problem with delicate use of the slopers and pinches.

SDS with right hand in obvious large pocket & left on edge. Move up past some cool opening moves to reach a shallow right hand pocket. Figure out how to stabilize in the pocket and make the long move to the good hold up and left (crux). Keep your head together for a rather difficult mantle.

Campus start (or very high feet) on solid holds. Work your way up to a typical HP40 topout. Kind of a taller boulder, so a spotter is recommended.

Sit start.  climb fartest right of lady slipper face

Start low on good holds. Work your way up to a sloper/mantle HP40 topout.

Left arete on cool lay-backy, bulby holds.   Fun v0 warm-up on cool holds with a relatively easy topout. Start on this and Lob first thing in the morning. This is the slightly harder of the two.

Sit start low w/ right crimp and left back handed edge. Difficult moves to original start to slider, and finish with slider.

Crimpy traverse. Start on micro crimps and traverse right on micro crimps, once you get to a jug (from a distant crimp) top her OUT.

Stand start. Start in low break. Climb arete. Pad edge stage.

Awesome sloper pawing up a short, steep wall, with a technical sloper topout. So, yeah, a pretty typical HP40 high quality rig. Feel good about sending this one.

Start left of Genesis on the jug rail. Climb straight up into a slot, then a pinch and a sloper and save some for the mantle.

Start on jugs. Climb seam and slopers to huge jugs at the top.

Sit start under small roof. Move out to the right and climb obvious jugs to the top.

Start on jugs. Traverse low right to the start of slider and finish on slider.

Start on greasy seam just left of red arrow. Make your way to seam then out through jugs.

Stand start on low crimps, campus to groove. Climb groove via, holds on right side of groove. traversing left isn't on.

Start down and right of Green Lantern on small crimps. Big move left to jug and traverse into Green Lantern.

The first problem established at Horse Pens. Often tried, and fun to climb with a group helping to figure out the beta. Stand start on enormous underclings. Make a long move to a slopey pod that is easy to stick but hard to move off of. Move up left to a decent sloper or right (further) to a slopey jug. Mantle.

Warm-up! This and Ticket Home are great v0s to get the blood pumping first thing in the morning. Great rock, good movement, good landings. This is the easier of the two.

Sit start. Make some reachy moves to a slopey rail and bump to the top. Note: Hit the rail high as you can for the best part of it.

Start matched on small edge. Move to pocket and match on it. Move right for crux mantle move.

Stand start on side pull.  Climbs grooves to a slopey top out.

Stand start. Slab climb. Caution with the top.

Sit start under arête. Climb out of roof and along arête on decent holds.

Sit start on low shelf.  Traverse right to good sidepull, then straight up on slopers.

Stand start on break. Left hand on small crimper. move feet up and go for pocket in roof weakness (Giant flake), left hand on left side of flake and go for big jug/lip. Once you snag it, heel hook right and traverse out past water groove to big jug up about two feet, exit stage left.

Stand start on flake in the very back of Indian Roof shelter. Climb out huge flake to the start of Indian Roof and finish.

Sit start. Start on arete to face on the right of the arete.

Another great squeeze problem. East for the grade.    stand start, surf to high sloping side pulls then squeeze your way continuously to better holds.

this is a holding area for routes being assigned to sub-areas

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Temp HP40