A beautiful, colorful arete with a horrific landing.  Though it is not a tall climb, if you fell you would probably bounce off the uneven rock underneath it and tumble down the hill into the bushes... Let's not find out.

 The movement is technical, the rock quality pristine, and the holds interesting.  Start sitting on the rock in the landing, feet down low.  I started gaston-ing the arete with my right hand, left a bit higher up on a really cool pinch with a good thumb catch.  Move up through crimps, a nice orange slot, and a sloper on the right, an awesome slopey rail, slapping your left up the awesome sloper rail on the left.  Heelhooks definitely, some fancy knee scumming made it feel more secure for me.

 I would recommend putting a rope over it before going for it, theres a tree you can sling and then a sketchy flaring crack over right you can fill with cams and nuts to keep the rope from rolling off the side.  I tried to brush all the lichen I could and clean of any loose holds (there were very few) but some of the crystals on the left of the arete should probably be whacked before going to it, I probably missed a few.

Death In the Afternoon

Fire Walk With Me

Balance

Don't Fall

Long Grain Rice, FOR MEN!

Direct Rice for Long Men

Art Isn't Real

Lily of the Valley

Caravan Palace

The Orb

Ronnie's

Corpse Reviver

SDS on distant opposing edges and make a powerful move to a deep crescent. Continue up vertical incut rails and make a balancey move to grab the lip. Padding the rocks on the right side of the landing will help protect falls from the top.

 Number 10

The full crystal band line.  Start on the right side of chasm on blocky hold (same start as Lily of the valley and art isn't real) and follow the nice crystal band up and left through a harder low crux, catch a quick rest and do a French blow for style points before busting the easier but spookier high crux exiting straight up from the top of the crystal band.

Start crouched on a sloping jug and climb straight up the face to chicken heads at the top.

 Number 11

Start matched on a flat shelf-like jug. Climb out the roof into a difficult and terrifying topout. Number 7 on the topo.  

  The top needs more cleaning.

Outside of the chasm to the right, climbs the slightly rising slopey lip starting 10 or so feet to the right of the chasm on a nice pokey jug.  Climb to the right and top out on the right facing micro dihedral. 

  If anyone is so inclined to do some scrubbing this could be climbed starting as far to the left as you like.

Same start as Long Grain Rice for Men but make a big move straight up and top out slab.

Aesthetic movement, beautiful holds, and an element of danger define this problem. Starts on the right side of the chasm on the same nice blocky hold as art isn't real.  Follows the leaning crystal band through some crimping which culminates in a hard reach to a jug.  From here the problem starts to diverge from the crystal band, crimping out left to get a high foot and make a tricky rock over right to a blocky sloper that remains after a jug was pulled off.  This move is a little off the deck and the danger of slamming the wall behind is real, so act deliberately.  From the sloper head straight up through improving holds until you can grab the chickenhead over the lip and top out the rig.  Woo!

A fun little line that starts on blocky holds on the right side of the overhanging face in the chasm.  Climbs straight up through a series of fun opposing sidepulls, to good top out jugs.  Some danger of falling and scraping the wall behind you, I wouldn't recommend this one if its near your limit.  Be aware of potential choss, although I think I pulled most of it off.

Start left of Art Isn't real on the same holds as Ronnie's Low Start under the crystal band on decent crimps and make a move to a big flat edge.  From here move up into the crystal band and follow it straight up making a committing and insecure bump to a crimp high off the deck 

  This line is the insecure but easier upper crux of Fire Walk With Mewithout having to pull the harder low crux.

Begin on high incuts and top out left after making a high-tension crux move up well off of the ground. Exceptional rock and a very scary landing. **Var. (V6 R): Avoid the feet on the supporting boulder at the crux to get your heart rate going. 

  Low: V7ish. Establish tension on a low left hand pinch and a small, rightward-facing sidepull. Adds a move of spice.  

  Number 2

Begin on the low jug rail at the bottom right part of the face and climb up and left into death in the afternoon.

Just up the hill from the River Boulder, Ronalds Chasm has a few scary moderates on decent rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Ronald's Chasm