Start a little to the left of the first bolt, below an intimidating series of roofs.  Climb up the face and hang onto the large shelf to clip the second bolt.  There is still some flakey, friable rock in places which can be annoying, but which is going away with repeated ascents.   Move slightly right of the shelf under the huge roof.  Undercling the roof moving back left and up into "The dirty V".  Pass the V, then traverse right at the mossy ledge, joining the top of Thunder Down Under.  Shares Anchors with Thunder Down Under.

Dirty V

Thunder Down Under

Crotalid

Bearly Hanging On

Elapsid

Niether

Half Pint -Trailhead Boulder

It's easy to be brave...

Azucar

Monkey! - Trailhead Boulder

Bearly Hanging On Direct

Mid Life Crisis -Trailhead Boulder

It's easy to be brave above a bolt.   Try it... See if the old West Virginian adage is true for you too!   Using a sidepull for your right hand balance your way up to 2 big pockets under the roof. Undercling then crimp to get your hands above the roof.  Heel hook or thrutch up over the roof.  After clearing the roof follow easy ground to the anchors.     v1: variation traverses left under the roof before going up.

Climb directly up the face beneath the massive roof.  Pull the roof just left of a bolt.  If you don't get both feet above the roof, you will thunder down under!

Super fun and varied climbing.  Start on the white face and climb up slopers to some good holds past a bulge.  Continue straight up the slab onto the grassy ledge.  From the grassy ledge pull the overhang (bolt to your left).  Follow the line of bolts up the awesome, gently overhanging face to the anchors.  Clip the anchors, but you're not done until you're looking over the top!

So named because of the bear that bore witness the first ascent.  Climb a rounded arete (bolt) past a bulge and onto a slopey ledge.  Use a long sling to clip the second bolt, and step right along the ledge.  Climb up to the huge ledge below the roof.  Pull the roof on the right,  at the left facing corner.  Follow bolts up the slightly overhanging rock to the top.  Bolted anchor. A variation continues straight up the arete to the big ledge.

Fun climbing past some bulges to the anchor.

Climb up  the easy ledgey section and do a balancey move onto the face.  Continue up to the big ledge and follow bolts up to the alcove.  Climb up to the roof of the alcove (bolts to your left) and figure out the trick to pulling over the roof.  Continue up the slabbey face above to the anchors.  Don't get suckered into following the broken section on the right of the alcove, this is 5.6ish, but you can't clip the bolts from it.

At the trailhead just across the foot bridge on the left are 3 boulder problems on an overhanging boulder.  Half Pint is the one one the left.  Climb up the overhang and grab some fins of rock to top out.  Walk off to the right.

Short but sweet!  Some tricky/ balancy moves up the steep face lead to the massive roof.  Clip the bolt at the top of the face then work out the overhang to clip the chain perma-draw.  Pull the huge overhang and step up and right onto a ledge.  From here you can basically stand up and clip the chains.   An easier variation (called Sweet & Low) goes up the dirty offwidth to the left of the start, and can be protected with a #4 Camalot.

The furthest right of the problems on the trail head boulder.  Climb up under the roof, grab a crimpy hold up and right, reach up and left for the edge of the roof.  Finish with a heel hook and a long reach to the top.  Walk off right.

If you're tall you may think this is easier than 5.12-, please post feedback.  This is the direct start, and the original line.  The beginning is admittedly a one move wonder boulder problem, which is why we made the regular start up the arete. It's really fun anyway, enjoy it!  From slopey ledge continue straight up as per Bearly Hanging On (5.10a).

The middle of the three problems.  Climb up to the overhang.  Crimp out to a long reach to a strenuous pinch. From here reach up and grab the lip of the roof.  Heel hook to clear the roof.  Walk off right.

The Sportsman's wall is in the touristy town of Phoenicia, also near some great Catskills hiking and decent restaurants.  The wall hosts about 10 fun, well bolted, moderate (from 5.8-5.12) sport routes on sandstone.  At one time the cliffs were part of the local quarrying industry, but have been abandoned since the early 1900's.  Many of the bolts have been painted to blend in with the rock.  You may need to look closely to find the start of some routes.   The routes vary from short with massive overhangs to slopey.  As with any sandstone some of the holds can be crumbly, but most are on quality rock.   The Sportsman's Wall is in a beautiful forest setting occasionally visited by black bears (don't pet them) with great views from the tops of the pitches.  Bolted anchors at the tops of the climbs. Many of the anchors require re-threading at the chains.  Be sure you understand this procedure before you climb, or plan to leave 2 biners.   You may be able to top rope harder routes by leading easier ones nearby, but attempting to reach the anchors from above is not recommended.    Before you climb do not miss the pancakes at Sweet Sues!  (Update: Sweet Sues is re-opening soon, in the meantime try the Phoenicia Diner or Brios for breakfast.)  The Sportsman's Alamo Cantina is great for burgers, burritos and beer outside after your climb.  Mamas Boy has good coffee and snacks.  There is also a little grocery store that sells beer etc, and several campgrounds.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall