Start in the inside corner and work your way on to the right slab to the first bolt. Then climb the arête.

Edge of Psychotic Normalcy

Unknown

High Noon

8nts in my p8nts

Squeeze Easy

Ninja

Twelve O'Clock High

Old Dude Attitude

Yellow Jacket

Rain Maker

The Tommyknockers

A very short route, maybe 4 or 5 moves.  Scramble halfway up the face to the actual climbing, put in a #2 and #3.  An awkward jam; pull onto a rounded, moss covered ledge; place another piece; 2 more jams, and  you're at the top.

A very mossy, lichen infested crack that might be worth a star if anyone ever spent an hour on it with a wire brush.  I only did it with a couple of falls on TR, so I'm guessing at the grade.  A lot of difficult stemming and some difficult hand jams in a flaring finger/hand crack. A bit of fun on TR.

Climb the ramp on thin slab to mint green stain on headwall. Follow the bolts from there to the chain anchors at the top.

20 feet of uninspiring climbing to a tree covered in ants.

Based off 'Squeezing the Lemmon III' (Go buy it!): Start on a low-angle ramp and climb the chimney to the left of Yellow Jacket. Work into a large, left-leaning flake.

 We did some fun chimney moves behind the left leaning flake. Make sure to manage rope drag well. A little run out in places unless you have big (>4 BD) gear but still fairly easy. Route has a decent amount of lichen.

This is the first route you will encounter on the trail. It follows a shallow water-groove up a near-vertical wall. Some people agree that this is a beautiful, pure line, others proclaim it silly. Go see it for yourself. It is an open project, not for lack a strong attempts, and is likely one of the hardest sport lines on the mountain. The name refers to the type of climbing you will encounter. Ninjas are awesome and they rule.  

  Note: a large tree has fallen against the base of this route and needs to be cleared but no bolts were damaged. It did clear a small pine that used to hug the wall to the right, where another seam exists. The section past that has been toproped to halfway and may hold more potential. Have at it.

High Step from boulder onto slab across the sketchy left angling fall (need a spotter as you are immediately 7 ft up), and undercling the short wide crack.  Move up over crack through bulge of High Noon (5.9+X) [SQII].  Clip the bolt above the face, pull the bulge onto slab.  From third bolt continue on slab to top bulges instead of moving right to cracks.

Climbs the southern arete on the west facing buttress. Farthest right of three semi-bolted lines here. 

  Seriously long run-out past first bolt through 15 ft of 5.11R slab climbing. There is serious deck potential on this slab.

Climb an easy slab to the base of the vertical flake/crack. Climb the fantastic 5.10- crack to a stance below a roof. SQLIII shows turning the roof, however, I didn't see any pro up there so I took the obvious, and really fun sloper hand traverse left under the roof  into Squeeze Easy. From here another 100 feet of much easier climbing led to the top, but rope drag was hellacious. If I did the hand traverse option again I'd just belay on the ledge at the end of it and do another easier pitch to the top.  

  There didn't seem to be many other high quality routes in the area (The Sting looks high quality but neither of us wanted to tackle a Steve Grossman 11+). But this enjoyable crack route makes the short walk to the cliff worthwhile for the whimsical Mt. Lemmon crack enthusiast. I thought it was a strong two stars.

Starts on the triangular rock leaning against the face left of Tommyknockers.

Upper-mountain grey stuff, Sport and trad, the best lines here are a couple cracks and a sick-hard slab, but other than that, not much else. Short hike but great camp spots nearby. Always in the shade. There is access to the top of the cliff.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lizard Rock