This route begins from the edge of the road by following a thin, bolted crack system located up the middle of the lower headwall of Buddha Tooth. Climb the crack (5.9 bolted crux) to the ledge about 15 feet up, traverse left (2 bolts) to the base of the large off-width chimney between Left and Right Buddha. Stem the chimney up and to the back to place gear. About 25 feet from the top scramble to the top using left and right cracks (5.6). Two rope rappel off, currently there are no chains on top. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon volume 2: Umpqua 2007. Topo B pp. 222.

Tower of Dharma

Split Personality

Left Buddha

Deviant Deviations

Right Buddha

Chimney of Karma

Huevos

From the road climb the left lower wall crossing right onto the Left Buddha (aka left tower). You will find the third bolt between a small tree (or snag) on the left and the Middle Buddha chimney to the right. Follow sparse bolting up the face of the Left Buddha to its summit. Rappel off, there are no chains. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon volume 2: Umpqua 2007. Topo B pp. 222.

Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2: Umpqua, Orton (ed) 2007. Topo C page 224. P1: climbs onto face uphill and left of the crack (Deviant Deviations 5.8). Follow bolt line up (5.7) and under overhanging rock (5.8) until it ties into the fore-mentioned crack to the right. From this crack follow bolt line back left across the slab under a pronounced overhang (5.8)  to the belay ledge and tree at the center of the pinnacle (belay bolts, no chains). P2: Walk the ledge left to to a large off-width chimney crack that splits the pinnacle to its summit. Follow bolts (5.9) up into the crack. Scramble the bottom off-with (5.5, one bolt) to the narrow portion of the chimney, then make a fun chimney climb to the summit (5.8, one bolt). Rappel ~95 feet off two top anchors (no chains) to the ground.

P1: Begins up thin crack up downhill side of west face of Split Tooth Pinnacle, joining with Split Personality following bolt line climbing left across slab under pronounce overhang to large belay ledge and tree at center of west face (5.8). P2: From belay ledge at tree scramble to right side of the ledge to the right side of an obvious large crack feature. From here traverse up onto a wide arete (5.7) following bolts to the summit (5.8). Rappel ~95 feet off top anchors (two bolts, no chains). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2: Umpqua, Orton (ed) 2007. Topo C page 224.

Begins at the base of the Buddha's right side. Belay from the Douglas-fir at the base of the rock about 15 feet up slope of the road. Climb the short wall to the right and then cross left just under a large bush about halfway up and unto onto the right Buddha where you will find a 3rd bolt on the face to the left of the bush. You may find an opportunity to place a piece as you cross over under the bush. From the third bolt continue straight to the summit of the Right Buddha (aka right tower) following sparse bolting. Rappel off, there are no rappel chains. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon volume 2: Umpqua 2007. Topo B pp. 222.

P1: From the road climb the lower portion of Left Buddha (5.8, left side onto the "left Buddha" or "left tower"). From the base of the left Buddha traverse slightly left using slings around trees as protection. As you traverse left and up you will come to a narrow chimney that forms between the left and middle "towers". Follow the chimney to summit protecting with larger cams to 5 inches. Rappel >100 feet from summit to road or a shorter rappel to trees on backside. No chains. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2: Umpqua, Orton (ed) 2007.  Topo B page 222.

P1 (80 ft): follow a thin crack about 40 feet to first bolt (5.8). Leave crack (5.10a) and follow a catwalk about 40 feet to belay anchors (5.7). P2: (100 ft) Crux moves are climbing up 15 feet (.10c or A1) from left side of belay past 4 bolts into a thin crack. Once in the crack follow it clipping bolts and placing nuts to a small overhang traverse (.10d). Scramble further up the crack setting up next belay in the Doug-fir or continue up to first large ledge setting a belay in the crack. Note: rope drag may become an issue past the Doug-fir. P3 (30 ft): From the ledge scramble up several large boulders to summit (unprotected 5.6). Descent: replace slings and rappel off uphill side.

The Redman Tooth pinnacles are 200+ foot rhyolitic tuff with ten established routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.10d PG. Top anchors do not have chains so plan on leaving some tied slings or chains. An assortment of nuts and cams to 5 inches is helpful. Note: PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Redmans Tooth